bly depending upon the nature of the information he might procure-his return was therefore awaited with the greatest impatience.

As this event, however, could not be reasonably expected to take place before the expiration of ten days or a fortnight, leave of absence was readily granted to any of the officers desirous of obtaining it, and, amongst others, I availed myself of this indulgence, and gratified my curiosity by visiting the neighbouring island of Saint Martin's, bearing W. S. W. of Saint Bartholomew's, and distant about thirteen miles. Having procured the necessary passport, I proceeded in an open boat, accompanied by my constant associate Captain and Lieut. Y— *, of Colonel HipY. pesley's corps. When about mid-way, between the two islands, the rapidity of the current, with a contrary wind and heavy sea, compelled us to abandon our course to Marygott, and drift down

* This officer, having proceeded to Angustura, died shortly after his arrival.

D

to leeward of the island. Evening was now fast approaching, and with it every appearance of tempestuous weather; we however, arrived safe in Great Bay about seven o'clock, in the midst of a heavy gale, with our boat half full of water, and thoroughly drenched by torrents of rain, and the high spray which had been continually dashing over us.

Saint Martin's is in the joint possession of the French and Dutch; and Great Bay, where we had now landed, is the principal town in that quarter of the island belonging to the latter nation. It presented a dreary and comfortless appearance, being, with the exception of a few respectable planters' houses, the most wretched place imaginable. Numbers of poor half-naked negroes surrounded us on the beach, proffering their assistance for conveying our portmanteaus from the boat. On entering the town our first anxiety was to discover an inn, where we could procure refreshment, and change our wet clothes (which are considered more productive of fever than even the natural malignity of the West

India climate); but to our great disappointment, we were informed there was no place of that description in the town. In this unpleasant situation we began to despair of even procuring a lodging for the night, when Lieut. Y—fortunately recollected having been, on a former occasion, introduced to Doctor de Briton, the resident physician at Great Bay, to whose house he conducted us as an only resource. The Doctor was from home, but our friend's easy manner, and good address, soon secured to us every comfort we could desire. Next morning we were so fortunate as to meet with Mr. Cuthbert, the principal planter in the town, and uncle to our supercargo, Mr. Ritchie. Having spent the remainder of the day with this gentleman, we in the afternoon set out for Marygott, accompanied by Mr. Cromoni, proprietor of the lottery estate, who kindly insisted on our remaining at his house during our stay on the island.

I had now the opportunity afforded me of witnessing the richest production of an highly-cultivated West India estate, at the

period of the year most interesting in this climate. The appearance of the sugarcane was extremely beautiful, exhibiting in different fields its progress through the various stages of vegetation; nor was I less gratified on observing the mode of extracting the juice, and reducing it to the state of crystallization, in which it is seen in Europe: but the process is so familiarly known as to render a minute description altogether superfluous. The situation of Mr. Cromoni's estate was truly picturesque; and slavery, so abhorrent to nature and humanity, appeared here to The gepossess but a nominal existence. neral aspect of the negroes sufficiently evinced their happiness and comfort, and how anxious their kind master was to lighten the weight of their chains: nor were the slaves ungrateful for the humane treatment they thus experienced; on the contrary, manifesting in every act and proceeding the warmest, and, I am confident, most unfeigned attachment for their generous proprietor. The sincerity of their regard was indeed unequivocally proved, by the joy

with which these poor creatures hailed their master's return, after an absence from the estate of only two or three days: the negroes on our approach running towards Mr. C. from various directions, and, thronging round his horse, rivalled each other in expressing the warmth of their congratulations; whilst their master no less gratified with these interesting demonstrations of regard, encouraged their familiarity by the affability and kindness of his de

meanour.

But similar principles of humanity and feeling, I fear, rarely influence the conduct of West India planters; the great proportion of whom, so far as I could observe, treated their negroes in the most unfeeling manner, seeming very little solicitous for either their happiness or welfare-the appearance of these people in general betrayed the wretchedness of their situation, and the cruelty of their treatment.

The state of this unhappy and degraded race excites in the humane mind the most painful sensations; and however powerful some individuals in England may consider