lowlands, is better adapted to some articles. The upland soil usually consists of a reddish clay, more or less mixed with soft rocks and stones, containing considerable quantities of iron. That of the lowlands, in the immediate vicinity of the ocean, consists principally of sand. Besides this sandy soil, there are two other varieties of lowland soil-one of which is that on the banks of the rivers, within a few miles of the sea; this consists of a loose, deep, black mold, which is peculiarly adapted to the growth of those kinds of vegetables that thrive best during the dry season.

8. The other variety is that which is generally found extending back from the banks of the rivers, farther from the sea than the last-named; this consists of a light-colored clay, more or less tempered with sand, and it is well adapted to almost every kind of vegetables that will thrive in tropical climates.

CHAPTER II.

RIVERS.

1. THERE are no very large rivers in Liberia; and though some of them are from one fourth to three fourths of a mile wide, for fifty miles or more from their entrance into the ocean, yet none of them are navigable to a greater distance than twenty miles-the navigation being obstructed by rapids. The St. Paul's, the St. John's, and the Junk are the largest; and, indeed, they are the only rivers of any considerable length or width.

2. The other principal rivers are the Gallinas, the Cape Mount, the Mechlin, the New Cess, the Grand Cess, the Sanguin, the Sinou, and the Grand Sesters. Some of these present a bold appearance at their mouths, but they are

all comparatively short, and none of them are navigable for boats, or even for canoes, more than twenty or thirty miles, without obstruction by rocks or rapids.

3. The St. Paul's River is a beautiful stream of water. It is three fourths of a mile wide at the widest part (at Caldwell), and about three eighths of a mile wide at Millsburg, about fourteen miles from its mouth. The banks of this river rise from ten to twenty feet above the water, and except in places that have been cleared, they are covered with large forest trees, among which may be seen the graceful palm, rearing aloft its green-tufted head, and standing in all its pride and beauty, the ornament and the glory of its native land. The St. Paul's is perhaps the longest river in Liberia.

4. It is studded with many beautiful islands, abounding in camwood, palm, and many other valuable forest trees, and its banks furnish many beautiful sites for residences. Many native hamlets may be seen on the banks of this lovely river-the homes of the untutored children of the forest, the benighted sons and daughters of Africa.

5. The St. Paul's separates about three miles from its mouth; the principal stream rolls on toward the ocean, while the other fork flows in a southeasterly direction, almost parallel with the beach, and unites with the little Mesurado River near its mouth, and thus an island is formed, about eight miles long and from one to two in width, called Bushrod Island. This latter fork of the river is called Stockton Creek, in honor of Commodore Stockton, who kindly aided in effecting the first purchase of territory.

6. The St. John's River is also a beautiful stream. It is about sixty miles southeast of the St. Paul's, and it flows through that part of Liberia known as the Grand Bassa country. At the widest point it is nearly or quite a mile wide. Its length, however, is supposed to be less than that of the St. Paul's. The St. John's is also studded with numerous islands, the largest of which is Factory

Island, about three miles from its mouth. The banks of this river also rise considerably above the water, and the land bordering on it is also very productive.

7. The Junk River, which is about equidistant from the other two named rivers, is the third in size and importance. The main branch is supposed to be equal in length to the St. John's. The northern branch, which is only about forty miles long, is noted as a thoroughfare between Monrovia and Marshall. At the place of embarkation, a few miles below its source, it is not more than five yards wide, but it gradually expands to the width of more than half a mile. The appearance of the country along the banks of these rivers, and of the numerous little islands which they form, is highly picturesque.

8. The banks of the St. Paul's and the St. John's in many places present encouraging scenes of agricultural industry; showing the handiwork of a people whose social condition is vastly superior to that of their aboriginal neighbors, and who are thus placing before the indolent and improvident natives illustrations of the great superiority of the habits of civilized people to their own degrading customs; examples which must eventually exert a powerful influence on the minds and practice of the contiguous native tribes.

9. And thus, while the mind of the traveler is oppressed by the melancholy consideration of the moral and intellectual darkness of the scattered tribes of human beings, whose desolate-looking hamlets frequently meet his view, as he wends his way amid the dense forests of the uncultivated hills and dales of Africa, he is encouraged to believe that the time will come when this extensive "wilderness shall be made glad" by the labors of industrious agriculturists, and when this vast desert of intellectual and moral degradation "shall rejoice and blossom as the rose."

CHAPTER III.

SETTLEMENTS.

1. THE principal settlements in the Republic of Liberia are-Monrovia, New Georgia, Caldwell, Virginia, Kentucky, Millsburg, Marshall, Edina, Buchanan, Bexley, Greenville, Readsville, Lexington, and Louisiana. Besides these, there are a few other localities, which are sometimes called by one name and sometimes by another.

2. Monrovia is the largest and oldest of all the settlements, and it is the metropolis and the seat of government of the Republic. It is located near the mouth of the Mesurado River (a small stream about fifteen miles long), about four miles southeast of the entrance of the St. Paul's River into the ocean, on an elevated site immediately in the rear of Cape Mesurado, in latitude 6° 19′ north. The highest part of the hill on which the town stands, and which is near its center, is about eighty feet above the level of the ocean, and about three fourths of a mile from the summit of the cape, which is about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea.

3. Cape Mesurado is a bold promontory covered with massive forest trees and dense undergrowth, except in places that have been cleared. On the summit of the cape is a light-house and a fort, and along the sloping declivity toward the town there are several cleared lots on which small houses have been erected, in some places affording very pleasant places of residence. The greater part of the promontory, however, is very rocky. The course of the coast north of the cape forms a kind of bay, which generally affords safe anchorage for vessels; and the cove near the base of the cape affords as good a landing on the beach as can be found on almost any other part of the

coast.

4. The town of Monrovia, although more compact than any of the other settlements in Liberia, occupies a considable extent of ground, being about three fourths of a mile in length. It is laid off with as much regularity as the location will allow, and the streets, of which there are about fifteen in number, have received regular names. The town is divided into lots of one fourth of an acre, and most of the dwelling-houses have a lot attached to each of them. Most of the lots, and several of the streets, are adorned with various tropical fruit-trees, and some of the gardens present a handsome appearance.

5. The houses are generally one story or a story and a half high; some are two full stories. Many of them are substantially built of stone or brick; and some of the best houses are built partly of both these materials. The State House is a large stone building which was erected in 1843. In the rear of this building is a substantial stone prison. There are three commodious stone houses for public wor ship in the town-Methodist, Baptist, and Presbyterian; nearly all of the professing Christians in the place being attached to one of the religious denominations.

6. At the base of the hill on which stand the principal dwelling-houses, there are several large stone buildings, which are occupied as stores and warehouses. The dwellings of many of the citizens of Monrovia are not only comfortably, but elegantly, and some of them richly furnished; and some of the residents of this little bustling metropolis live in a style of ease and affluence which does not comport with the contracted views of those persons who regard a residence in Africa as necessarily associated with the almost entire privation of the good things of this life. The population is about fifteen hundred, exclusive of native children and youths who reside in the families of the citizens.

7. New Georgia is a small township located on the eastern side of Stockton Creek, about five miles from Monrovia. It is occupied principally by native Africans who were