Often in the mornings the drift-wood congregated round the paddle-wheels of the steamer would afford a resting place for several snakes, beautiful in the brilliant variety of their coloured skins. The presence of these reptiles was always unpleasant, and they invariably fell victims to the dislike of some one on board.

On the eighth day from Kooshteah we arrived at the little station of Gwalpara, built on the summit of a hill, rising abruptly from the left bank of the river. The station consisted of about two or three houses, occupied by the deputy-commissioner, doctor, and police officers.

On the second day from Gwalpara we entered a long reach in the river, from which, as the heavy rain clouds lifted, we occasionally caught a glimpse of the dark outlines of well-wooded hills bounding the horizon on either hand.

On the right bank a long bund skirted the river, forming in these days a substantial monument of the industry of the Assamese people, of whom a remnant now only remains.

This neighbourhood affords still another monument of their industrious and settled habits but a century or two since. Behind a large hill, twenty miles inland from the right bank of the river, there stand in the centre of a large Bheel or lake, surrounded for miles in every direction by dense tree jungle, the ruined arches of a bridge, which formerly spanned the Bramapootra.

A turn in the river, which now flowed between lowwooded hills, afforded us a pleasant change of scene. In place of interminable grassy plains our eyes were

delighted by the gentle slopes of the hills, decked with groves of trees showing the luxuriant foliage and rich shades of tropical vegetation, while in the distant perspective on the left bank lay the picturesque station of Gowhatty, the seat of government in Assam. The little white bungalows of the Commissioner and his staff, with those of one or two tea-planters, peeping from amidst the rich tropical foliage, together with numerous patches of cultivation surrounding the huts of the Assamese peasantry, on the hill sides, formed a pretty picture, and reminded us that we were once more nearing the haunts of men, and this pleasure was increased when we at last let go our anchor opposite the station.

Scarcely had we brought up, when officials and planters hurried on board to avail themselves of the fortnigtly opportunity to 'kill time' on board 'the steamer.' These poor banished ones, far away from the delights of Calcutta shops, were all very soon engaged in anxious enquiry for soda and tonic water, Bass and brandy, cases of which form a considerable portion of the upward cargo. Groceries and preserved meats were eagerly enquired for to vary the everlasting fowl; for mutton they have not, and beef is difficult to be got, for the Assamese dislike selling their cattle-of which they possess numerous herds-for slaughter.

The larders and store-rooms of our visitors having been replenished, diligent enquiries were next made of our patient and courteous captain for a thousand and one articles, such as hats, boots, saddles, whips, gloves, babies' socks, ladies' bonnets, a few cheeses, a chest of

drawers, or even a cradle, for all of which he had received a commission since his last trip, and which he had brought up simply out of kindness to the unfortunate men whose fate it is to live in Assam. This furious demand for food and clothing is apt to leave a bad impression on the mind of a new comer, but he needs only one day spent on shore at the house of any of the hospitable residents to have his first bad impressions thoroughly effaced by the abundant good cheer which reigns around him.

During the evening I received an invitation from Colonel Bivar-an old resident--to spend a day or two with him, and as our steamer would be detained for cargo and some repairs, the opportunity thus afforded to take a run on shore was eagerly embraced.

CHAPTER V.

GOWHATTY TO DEBRUGHUR.

Umanander-Tezpoore-Annual Fair-A Sudden Flood-A Dangerou Night-Wild Buffaloes-Dikhoo Mookh-Mosquitoes and MulesDebrughur.

A SHORT halt at Gowhatty was made most pleasant by the kindness of the residents, who manifested great interest in my success, and I embarked again to continue the voyage up the Bramapootra with the most lively remembrances of the hospitality which had been so freely extended to one who was in every sense a stranger.

Steaming past the station we steered for the main channel of the river, running close to the opposite bank. The channel here is very deep and narrow, and we pàssed under the rocky island of Umanander, rising like a pinnacle from the river, and covered with magnificent trees, from the midst of which peeped the picturesque domes of numerous Hindoo temples.

A few miles beyond this island the pretty green hills recede from the river, which again opens out into a broad stream, running through dreary plains of grass jungle, or forests growing to the water's edge.

At the end of three days from Gowhatty we arrived

at the station of Tezpoore, picturesquely situated on a range of low hills.

The annual fair of Tezpoore attracts a few Bhooteahs and Thibetans, who bring down ponies, musk, and yak tails, which they barter for rice and English piece goods.

The fact of these people visiting this fair has given rise to the idea that Tezpoore will eventually become of great importance as a trading station, from which Assam will supply Bhootan and Central Thibet with tea. It is, however, more probable that the trade which will at some future day spring up here will never assume very great proportions. The scanty population of Bhootan, even if they took all their brick tea and piece goods from Assam could do little towards supporting a great trade, while Central Thibet will more easily draw her supplies of tea by direct routes from Northern India instead of receiving them by the longer and more difficult journey through Bhootan.

Some have wondered why the Bhooteahs and Thibetan traders never purchase tea at Tezpoore, and it does seem strange that an article so greatly in demand in their country should never be enquired after; but this apparent indifference is easily accounted for. The retail business in tea, as already stated, is entirely in the hands of the Lamas of Thibet, whose influence is paramount also in Bhootan, and all traders are forbidden, under penalty of death, to deal in this article. Until this monopoly ceases to exist, and we have established a right to trade in Thibet, neither that country or Bhootan will take our Assam tea.