Chowsam, followed by his elders, and the coolies to carry our baggage, advanced in a grave procession through the crowd. The chief first, and next the elders, who, when the chief had taken a seat by me, ranged themselves in a circle round the fire, while the coolies stood respectfully in a row near the entrance. One by one each cooly was called up and harangued by Chowsam in the presence of the elders, and then the articles which he had to carry were handed to him. Three men carried the whole of the personal baggage belonging to Chowsam, to myself, Philip, and the negro, twenty pounds' weight being allotted to each. My blanket-tent, fryingpan, fork, two flat tin plates and tin pot-the latter articles forming my kitchen utensils and dinner service-formed a load for another man, while three others carried our stores of tea, dried fish, raw rice, and baked rice powdered and mixed with sugar; this preparation, being light and highly nutritious, forms an excellent article of food for travellers to carry with them in marches through wild countries, where provisions are

scarce.

The last man now stepped forward to receive his load, which, as comprising our bank, medicine chest, wine. cellar, and bread store, was most valuable. On opening my packet of medicines-which had consisted of two ounces of quinine, a small bottle of steel drops, six dozen purgative pills, one bottle of chlorodyne, one stick of caustic, and one pot of Holloway's ointment-one bottle of quinine, the stick of caustic, the pot of ointment, and steel drops were found to be missing. This was

very annoying, as the red leeches, common in the lower ranges of the Assam hills, are very venomous, so much so that, unless their bites are cauterised, bad sores are formed. The ointment I had already proved to be a successful safeguard against the leeches of the plains, and I confess that the prospect of being thus at the mercy of the leeches was not pleasing; but, though very angry at this theft, I did not like to say anything, for fear of making the chief uncomfortable. The articles must have been purloined by a skilful thief, and one who knew the value of caustic, which was scarcely to be expected of any of the Khamtees; and this reflection awakened strong suspicions against the negro, whose unsolicited protests of innocence afterwards, when I spoke to Philip about it, confirmed me in laying the theft at his door.

Provoking as the loss was, it was no use thinking over it, and from the precautions of the elders in taking a list of all the articles confided to each man, I was secure against theft for the future. When the last had received his load, all the villagers were admitted, or as many as could find standing room in the building, as I thought, for the purpose of leave taking. Perfect silence ensued, till the oldest of the elders stood up, and addressed me somewhat as follows: 'Koopah Sahib,-You are about to start on a long and dangerous journey. After you leave us constant dangers will beset you a stranger to the country and people amongst whom you will have to travel. Under these circumstances, we confide you to the care of our gohain, who will be responsible for you

with his life, and we beg of you to give us your word that you will intrust yourself entirely to his guidance. You must act towards him as to an elder brother; on every occasion be guided by his advice, no matter how much it may be against your wish.' He then proceeded to say that the village had assembled to bid us farewell, and acknowledge the responsibility of the clan for my safety.' Having spoken, he sat down, and as all eyes were turned to me, I rose, and thanked the Khamtees for their kindness, and solemnly promised, with upraised hand, to abide by the advice of the elder, and treat Chowsam henceforth as an elder brother. This cercmony having been concluded, Chowsam addressed his people (confiding them to the care of their elders during his absence), in what must have been impressive language, for many of the women audibly sobbed, while the men hung their heads as though unable to look their chief in the face, and see there the working of a countenance betraying great emotion. When Chowsam had finished, numbers of presents of sweetmeats were handed to me by the women; in fact, so many were showered upon me, that the gohain at last interfered, and we made a move from the house to the river bank, accompanied by the crowd, in perfect silence. Just before getting into the boat, I turned, and raising my hands above my head, made a bow to the people as a parting salutation, which, though not according to their custom, was understood and returned by them. Chowsam was the last to embark, and as he stood alone on the bank, it was an affecting sight to see most of the young

Farewell Addresses.

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men come, one after the other, and bend the knee before him as a mark of respect. The last man having paid his homage, Chowsam entered the dugout, and we shot across the river, disembarked, and set out on our journey.

166

CHAPTER XIII.

THE BRAMAKUND.

Frontier Forests - Hulluk Monkeys-Mhitton-Land Leeches - Honey Hunting—The Buffalo Bull—The Camlang-panee—Trying the Sahib -A Night in a Nullah-Edible Beetles-The Bramakund-Sacred Fish-Mishmee Message-The Mishmee Tribes-Chullah CottahsDegaroos-Dress-Arms-Ornaments.

OUR route, for about a mile, lay along the right bank of the Tenga-panee, then led off through dense tree jungle, which had overgrown the site of a large Khamtee village, built by Chowsam's father, but abandoned after the Khamtee defeat at Sudiya. Leaving these faint traces of man's industry, we entered deeper into the forest. The order of march of the party, consisting of twelve men and two slaves, had been arranged by Chowsam, and was never afterwards varied. Three men, in single file, went ahead some fifty yards, then came Chowsam, closely followed by myself and Philip, while the rest of our men, with the negro who had charge of my two bulldogs, formed the rear-guard, about twenty yards behind. As we strode silently along in the twilight of the forest, with a canopy of dense foliage overhead, a full sense of the wild life opening before us made my heart leap again, and I seemed, as we penetrated farther