three pipes, and talking of the news. Among other things, I was talking of Ali Pasha's late attack on Parga, when the W. said, that Ali had not attacked it himself, but that some of his soldiers had made incursions without his knowledge. Credat Judæus. When I left him, I requested him to let me have horses early to-morrow morning, which he promised he would. In the evening I walked about to see the town, which is of a very odd construction. As it is built on the declivity of a very high mountain, some of the houses are completely on the tops of the others. The water from the mountain (which is a bare rock about 300 feet high) is so copious, that the inhabitants still call it a river; and indeed it forms a stream about fifty feet wide. It would be deep, but they break and divide it by props and stones, and it turns several mills: this makes it fall in numberless small cascades, whose constant noise is very disagreeable to those who are unaccustomed to it. The environs of the town are very pretty, and abound in trees. Just outside of it (there are no walls, neither are there in Salona) are many gardens for vegetables. The town contains about 1,000 houses, of which fifty Turkish, twenty Jewish, and the remainder Greek. It commands 300 villages, which produce great quantities of corn. It also manufactures some silk and a great deal of cotton. I saw a Greek sitting at his door printing some cotton, which he did by hand merely with a cork. the north of the town, cut into the mountain, is the

At

celebrated Cave of Trophonius. On the outside is a small square excavation, about twelve feet deep, on each side of which in the interior is a stone-seat, There is also a small pool of dirty water, at the bottom of which, the Greeks told me, is a marble staircase. The inside is hardly penetrable now, as the hole to enter is scarcely big enough to admit a goat. The Greeks told me, that one or two of the inhabitants had crawled in, and had found an immense cave nearly full of water, and that inside it was bitterly cold. Of an inscription on the rough rock outside, nothing remains but the following letters, all in one long line: "EY | ET

-BO

-0."

He

An Albanian soldier near was very curious to know, why I looked at and inquired after the cave. said, that some Franks, who came three or four years ago, carried away some of the water, the reason of which he could not comprehend. The master of the house has just come to tell me a long story of lamentations, saying, that he was once rich, but that, seven years ago, Ali Pasha sent for him to Yoannina, imprisoned him two years, and made him pay 40,000 piastres. He concluded, by begging me to write to Mr. G. F., to endeavour to get him some situation. The air of Livadia is very unhealthy, and in the heat of the summer the inhabitants are much afflicted with fevers,

Thursday, May 12.-At seven o'clock we set off from Livadia, with most excellent horses. The

66

post in this part of Greece is well supplied, and is a heavy tax on the Greeks. The first hour we rode along moderate mountains, with a very decent road. All the rest of our journey lay along a beautiful plain, abounding in corn and bordered by mountains, of which those on the south were the chain of Mount Helicon. At the spot where we left the mountains, was a clumsy modern aqueduct, which conveyed a plentiful stream from the heights. Here one of the surigees, a young Turk, carried off with him a lamb from a flock which we passed on the road on my asking him, if it was his own, he replied with the greatest exultation, "7ò exλeya," "I stole it," and boasted of having frequently committed such thefts. I made him instantly set it at liberty, not without some remonstrances from Mustapha and Devrisch. Two hours from Livadia is the boundary where the district of Thebes begins, and where Ali Pasha's dominion ends. Here, to the right of the road, is the famous Mount Sphinx, whence issued the monster which proposed the riddle that Edipus expounded. It is lofty, and the top is merely a barren rock. Two hours further, we came to a modern tower built on a small eminence. It was about a hundred feet high and thirty square. It had no door, but the entrance was by a subterraneous cave, at the side of the rock, now almost entirely closed up. Near this is a small manufacture of cheeses, which makes annually 300 okes. A little further on were the ruined foundations of some walls. At two