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Soon after we passed the Acchusnutt we entered upon the great sandy plain, which forms the South-Eastern region of Massachusetts. Between New-Bedford and Rochester it is tolerably firm. Thence to Wareham it becomes lighter, and the road heavier. From Wareham to Sandwich the horse may be said to wade. The forest throughout this region is principally formed of yellow pines. Oaks are however interspersed in New-Bedford, and Rochester. The soil in Rochester is principally hard and furnishes a good road.

Rochester consists of scattered plantations. The soil, so far as we had opportunity to see it, is thin and indifferent. Around a decent church we saw several well-looking houses, and a number of others in different parts of the township.

Rochester was incorporated in 1686; and contained, in 1790, 2,644 inhabitants; in 1800, 2,546; and, in 1810, 2,934.

Wareham, on the road, is almost merely a sandy plain, except a few spots lying chiefly along the streams. The soil, which is light and thin, lies immediately upon a stratum of white sand, from half an inch to eight or ten inches in thickness. Beneath this lies another stratum of yellow sand, descending below any depth to which it has been explored. As all this country is formed in the same manner to Province Town, with few and small interruptions, I shall have occasion hereafter to resume this subject.

The Congregational church in Wareham is decent; but neither this, nor the church in Rochester, has a steeple.

The lands in this township near the Ocean are said to be much better than those on the road.

Wareham was incorporated in 1739; and, in 1790, contained 854 inhabitants; in 1800, 770; and, in 1810, 851.

Between Wareham and Sandwich we crossed the neck, or isthmus, which connects the peninsula of Cape Cod with the main. Two streams from this peninsula empty their waters into Barnstable Bay on the East, and Buzzard's Bay on the West, whose head waters are very near to each other. A scheme has long since been projected, and often been brought up to the view of the public for making a canal, to connect these two waters, of suffi

cient depth to admit vessels of considerable burthen, and thus save them the voyage round Cape Cod, which at some seasons of the year is not a little hazardous. The design is accompanied by the following very serious difficulties. The expense as estimated by several successive surveyors, will be very great. There is no harbour at the entrance in Barnstable Bay, to secure vessels aiming at the canal in tempestuous weather. This evil is radical; and can be remedied only by an expensive mole at this spot. If the canal should be guarded with locks, it would in the winter be frozen; and thus preclude all navigation at the time of the greatest exposure. If the canal should be left open, it is believed that a sand bar would be formed at one of the entrances. The imporportance of this work, however, is so great, that it will probably be one day attempted. During five months out of the nine, in which it would be open, Easterly storms more or less prevail. Many vessels are lost; and a great mass of property is sunk in the Ocean. The commerce of Boston, and other towns on the Eastern shore of Massachusetts, would also be rendered so much safer and easier, that it could not fail of being greatly increased. Perhaps there never was a spot, in which such a work was more necessary, or in which it would be more useful to mankind, than in this. The distance between the navigable waters of these two bays, is five miles.

The soil of Sandwich is much better than that which we saw at Wareham. The surface is an interchange of hills and vallies; which, though not beautiful in themselves, were particularly agreeable to us, after having languished over so extensive a plain. These, to a considerable extent, are moderately well covered with earth. The meadows were often brilliant. The arable land bears good crops of the grains common to the country; and, among them, of wheat; which not uncommonly yields well. The maize was small: but the season had been very dry, and stinted its growth. Generally, the crop is good. A stranger, surveying this ground, would suppose from its appearance, that vegetation of every kind must be greatly inferiour to that, which really exists. There are several good orchards in this town, and one cidermill; the only one on the peninsula.

The town of Sandwich is built on the Northern, or, as it is commonly called, the Western, side of the isthmus, on a hill of considerable height. The most compact part of it surrounds a clear, pleasant looking pond. From this water runs a handsome. stream, on which stands a grist-mill. The church is an ancient building; as are also many of the houses.

A considerable salt marsh along the shore of the bay yields the inhabitants a large quantity of hay, which is valuable both as fodder, and as manure. Near it is a small harbour, called the Town Harbour, where, and in some other inlets belonging to the township, about thirty vessels are employed in the coasting business; especially, in carrying wood to Boston.

The general appearance of Sandwich is not unpleasant; and from the high grounds, there is a fine prospect of the bay, and of the neighbouring country. There is a small academy, containing at this time a considerable collection of students.

Sandwich is divided into two parishes. It was incorporated in 1639; and, in 1790, contained 1,991 inhabitants; in 1800, 296 dwelling-houses, and 2,024 inhabitants; and, in 1810, 2,282. There is one Society of Friends, and another of Methodists, in this township.

The inhabitants of Sandwich have very civil, decent manners. Since we were on this ground there has been a considerable revival of Religion in the congregation of the Rev. Mr. Burr.

I am, Sir, yours, &c.

LETTER IX.

between Sandwich and Barnstable--Barnstable--Yarmouth--Salt works of Cod--Observations on the extent of this manufacture-Difficulties of chris ing the Indians-Dennis-Harwich-Orleans.

ir,

DAY, September 29th, we left our friends in Sandwich, and rode to Orleans: thirty miles; through Barnstable, twelve; Yarmouth, sixteen; Dennis, twenty-one; and Harwich, twenty-five.

The country from Sandwich to Barnstable is hilly, and in a great degree bare, bleak, and desolate; the inhabitants having universally cut down their forests and groves, and taken no measures to renew them. The soil is thin and unproductive, and furnishes very little that is sprightly to enliven the scene. The road is in many places worn through the soil down to the yellow sand, and is deep, and very heavy. The hills succeed each other so rapidly, and the acclivities and declivities are so sudden, as to render the travelling very laborious. It ought to be mentioned, however, that in the vallies, and towards the bay, a number of meadows alternate the prospect pleasantly. The views from the heights are frequently extensive and interesting. The streams are few and small. The houses on the road are neither numerous, nor, except in a very few instances, of much value.

Barnstable lies at the bottom, or the Southern extremity of Massachusetts Bay. The township extends across the peninsu la; which here is from five to nine miles wide; and about eight miles from Sandwich to Yarmouth. A noble prospect is seen from the high grounds; consisting of the town and neighbouring country. A very extensive salt marsh, at that time covered with several thousand stacks of hay; the harbour, a mile wide, and four or five miles long; a long, lofty, wild and fantastical beach, thrown into a thousand grotesque forms by the united force of winds and waves; and the Bay, bounded on the North only by VOL. III.

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sky, on the East by the peninsula of Cape Cod, and on the West by the Eastern shore of Massachusetts; Plymouth Point, a very long beach running several miles into the bay, and Duxborough Point, another beach of considerable extent, and lapping upon that of Plymouth; are conspicuous and very pleasing objects in this view.

The soil in Barnstable is plainly richer, as the situation is better, than that of Sandwich. The forest growth in both townships is chiefly oak and yellow pine. The land produces good crops of maize, rye, and other grains, a good deal of flax, and a great quantity of onions. On some grounds, and in favourable seasons, wheat grows well. Salt hay is furnished by the marshes in abundance.

The town is built on the Northern declivity of a range of hills, running near the middle of the peninsula. The greater part of the houses stand on the road taken together they are superiour to those of Sandwich. Many of them are neat; and several exhibit proofs of wealth and taste. The public buildings, which we saw, were a Presbyterian church, and a court-house; the latter decent and well repaired; the former disagreeable to the eye. The church is unusually low, while the tower of the steeple is disproportionately high; appearing as if made for some other building, and by accident annexed to this.

Barnstable was incorporated in 1639, and is the shire town of the County, which bears this name. This distinction it acquired in 1635, and, although situated near the Western end of the peninsula, has quietly retained it ever since. From this source the manners of the inhabitants have received some degree of polish, and their morals some injury. Many of the inhabitants are seamen, and a greater part farmers.

Barnstable includes two parishes, and three Congregations; two Presbyterian, and a small Baptist. In 1790, the number of inhabitants was 2,610; in 1800, 2,964: houses 408; and, in 1810, 3,646.

From Barnstable to Yarmouth the road is deep and heavy, like that last described.

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