LETTER VI.

Island of Manhattan--Country Seats-Roads-Battle of Haerlem--Surrender of Fort Washington-Haerlem Bridge-West-Chester-Army of Gen. Howe-EastChester-New-Rochelle-Mamaroneck--Rye-Mr. Jay---County of WestChester-Appearance of this country in 1777.

Dear Sir,

I CONTINUED in New-York until Monday morning; when, having taken leave of Mr. M—, I left that city for New-Haven. The road, which anciently went round by King's bridge, now crosses the same outlet of the Hudson at Haerlem bridge, nine miles from the city; and in the neighbourhood of the village of that name. There are three roads on the island, which conduct travellers to this place: the Western, or Bloomingdale road; the Middle; and the Bowery, or Eastern. All of them are good, but in dry weather are dusty; the first is pleasant, but longer than the others; the second is the shortest, and least pleasant; the third is more travelled than either of the other two.

The island of Manhattan is about fifteen miles in length, and at an average a mile and a half, perhaps, in breadth. The surface has naturally very little beauty, and nothing which approximates to grandeur. The soil, also, is generally indifferent, and in most places lean. A considerable portion of it is still unproductive; consisting of marshes, cold and dreary, or of rocky and desolate elevations. The surface rises in an undulatory manner, as you advance towards the North. The acclivities are numerous, and frequently easy; and the vallies are open, and sometimes graceful. Art has here extensively beautified the surface, and enriched the soil, throughout the Southern half of the island, and probably at a future period, these improvements will be extended over the whole. About six miles of the Northern end are little cultivated. The remainder is set at small distances with cheerful habitations, with well-stocked gardens, and neat enclosures: while the heights, and many of the lower grounds, contain

a rich display of gentlemen's country seats, connected with a great variety of handsome appendages. No part of the United States has such a numerous collection of villas within so small a compass; nor is any ride in this country made so cheerful by the hand of art, as the first six miles on the Bowery road; and, indeed, the whole distance to Haerlem Bridge.

On the 15th Sept. 1776, the day after the Americans retreated from New-York, the British moved up the island six miles; and ⚫ spread a considerable force from Bloomingdale on the Western, to Horne's hook on the Eastern, shore of the island. The American advanced post was on the heights of Haerlem. The British moved into the flat ground between the heights, occupied by the two armies; and Gen. Washington ordered Lieut. Col. Knowlton of Connecticut with a body of Rangers from New-England, and Major Leitch with three companies from the third Virginia regiment, to fall by a circuitous course upon the rear of this detachment; whilst he amused them in front. The project was in a good degree successful. Knowlton and Leitch attacked them partly on the flank, and partly in the rear; in consequence of a change of their position, made while the Americans were taking their circuit. Notwithstanding the late misfortunes at Brooklyn, the attack was made with great spirit and success. Both Knowlton and Leitch, however, fell in the contest, at the head of their respective corps. The Captains still continued the action with firmness and resolution. The British were reinforced; and detachments were sent by Gen. Washington from the New-England, and Maryland, regiments to the aid of their countrymen. Thus sustained, they charged the enemy; drove them out of the wood, by which they had been sheltered; and were urging them over the open ground, when they were recalled. The British force consisted of a battalion of light infantry, and another of Highlanders, with three companies of Hessian riflemen, under the command of Brigadier-General Leslie. This event was honourable to the Americans. They had retreated, or rather fled, from the City of New-York the preceding day, panic struck by those apprehensions of danger, which, when the mind realizes its certain

ty, and is ignorant of its extent, will for the time make a man even of determined bravery a coward. The panic was now over. They saw their enemy, knew his strength; and were led by gal lant officers. They, therefore, assumed their proper character. About fifty of their number were killed, or wounded, and more than one hundred of the British.

Of Major Leitch I have no knowledge, beside what I have here communicated. Knowlton had served in the last Canadian war with great reputation; and was highly esteemed by his countrymen. Gen. Washington, having appointed a successor to him, observed, that "he fell, gloriously fighting at his post; and would have been an honour to any country."

About twelve miles from New-York, on the Western side of the island, stood Fort Washington; intended, together with Fort Lee on the opposite shore, to serve as a defence of Hudson's River; such a defence, it was hoped, as would prevent British ships of war from advancing above this point. The design was fruitless, and visionary; but not more so, perhaps, than the operations of every army will exhibit, which consists chiefly of selftaught officers, and raw troops. The works, also, were inadequate, had the design itself been practicable. It is unnecessary to detail the story of its attack, and surrender. A body of 5,000 men, under the command of Gen. Kniphausen, carried the lines, altogether disproportioned in their extent to the force, destined for their defence, by a well directed assault: and Col. Magaw, their commanding officer, surrendered the garrison as prisoners of war. It has been generally supposed, that the defence was gallant, and honourable. It would gratify me to see this opinion supported by any tolerable evidence. This was the last spot, possessed by the Americans on the island of Manhattan, until after the evacuation of New-York in Nov. 1783.

The ancient road from New-York to New-England, crossed King's bridge and the erection of a bridge between Haerlem and Morrisania was esteemed for a long time so expensive and difficult a work, as to forbid even the hope of its accomplishment, unless at some distant period. In the year 1790 General

Morris was authorized by law to erect a bridge between Haerlem and Morrisania. After some years, he transferred this power to John B. Coles, Esq. of New-York. Mr. Coles immediately erected the bridge, viz. in 1796; and with such facility and dispatch, as disappointed the predictions, and even the hopes, of the public. In consequence of this event a new road was laid out from Haerlem heights to Mamaroneck; which, beside passing in many places over better ground, shortened the distance almost four miles in twenty.

Between Haerlem heights, and the bridge, is built the village of Haerlem on both sides of a small creek. It contains about seventy or eighty houses; most of them neat; and among them several country seats, belonging to citizens of New-York; together with a church, of the Dutch communion. The appearance of this village is cheerful and pleasant.

On a plain at a small distance from this village are the NewYork race-grounds.

After crossing the bridge we enter Morrisania in the township of West-Chester, anciently a borough, in the English sense of that term. Whether it still retains this denomination I am ignorant. The town lies four or five miles from the bridge, on the Sound; and at that distance from the New-England road. I have never seen it. Between three and four miles from the bridge the road passes over an easy, undulating ground, containing very few houses. A great part of this distance the lands belong to the family of Morris. At its termination a pretty village, named Westfarms, has risen upon both sides of the Bronx, around some valuable mills upon that river, formerly owned by a Mr. De Lancey, and still generally known by the name of De Lancey's mills. This village owes its existence to the alteration of the road, and the erection of Haerlem bridge. It has already become, as I am informed, more considerable than the town of West-Chester, and has a very cheerful aspect. The houses are generally neat; and a few of them appear to be the residences of gentlemen. The inhabitants are principally mechanics and manufacturers, and are fast increasing in number.

West-Chester contains but one church; and, as I believe, but one congregation; which is Episcopal.* The number of its inhabitants in 1790 was 1,336; in 1800, 1,377; in 1810, 1,966.

The soil of this township is moderately good; and some of it of a superiour quality. The surface, which abounds in rocks and stones, is every where uneven, and generally unpleasant. Its position on the sound, and the neighbourhood of New-York, make the land, however, much more valuable than better lands in the interiour.

On the Eastern limit of this township, where it meets the Sound, is the Peninsula of Throg's Neck: a vulgar contraction of Throgmorton's Neck. On this ground Gen. Howe landed a considerable part of his army, Oct. 12th, 1776, in order to cut off the communication between the army of Gen. Washington, then lying above and below King's bridge, with the country. Here he continued six days; and then transported his army to Pell's point in the manor of Pelham, about six miles North-Eastward.

This part of Gen. Howe's conduct has ever appeared to me inexplicable. During the whole of the period while he lay at Throg's Neck, he was within six miles of the line, on which Gen. Washington moved his army from King's bridge to White Plains. The movement proceeded slowly, and heavily, for the want of a sufficient supply of teams to convey the artillery, stores, baggage, &c. Had the Americans been attacked at this time by the British force, they must, I think, have been ruined. Such an attack might have been made with perfect ease on any one of these six days. An army, thus situated, even when thoroughly disciplined, and amply provided, must from the slender force, which it could present at any one point, have fallen victims to the strong columns, led by Gen. Howe. The bridge, which connects Throg's Neck with the Main, was indeed broken down; but he might have landed his troops with equal convenience, and safety, upon the shore on either side, or at any other place within the township of West-Chester, Nor would the little means of defence, fur

West-farms, since this was written, viz. in 1814, has been formed into a Presbyterian congregation, built a church, and settled a respectable clergyman.