on the Water-Meeting with our Messenger-Letter from Sheikh Mo-

hammed-Evening Scene-Our Tawarah Attendants-Bathing in the Gulf

-Sharks-Steep Pass-Island of Kureiyeh-Laborde's Visit to it-Well-

sted's Visit-His Description of Island and Ruins-Their Inaccessibility

-Wady Tabah-Head of the Gulf and Glimpse of Akabah

PAGE

. 126

CHAPTER VII.

THE CHILDREN OF THE DESERT.

The Gulf of Akabah-Its History and Shores-The ancient Ezion-Geber

-Nations who occupied it-Appearance of Town and Castle-Locusts—

Description of Castle-The Mecca Caravan-Its Surroundings and the

Pilgrims-Burckhardt's Account of Caravan-Our Arrival and Visitors-

Preliminary Negotiations-Great Heat-Visit to the Governor-Arrival of

the Sheikh and his Brothers-Our Conference as to Petra-Picturesqueness

of the Scene-Cost of the Expedition-Heavy Backsheesh Our Tawarah

Escort leave us-The Bedawin-Their Characteristics-The Aenezes-

Mode of Marching-Tents - Dress—Arms—Food-Mode of Receiving

Guests-Industries-Religion of the Tribes-Marriage Customs-Divorces

-Women-Their Hard Lot-Hospitality of the Bedawin-Principles of

Government-The Sheikh-Arab Justice-Laws of Inheritance-Blood

Revenge.

. 158

CHAPTER VIII.

THE EASTERN ROUTE TO PETRA BY WADY EL-ITHM.

Intense Heat at Akabah-Male and Female Palm-trees-Our Departure for

Petra-Route of the Israelites-Wady Arabah-Entrance to Wady el-Ithm

-Jebel Badry-Barren Character of Scenery-Ruined Fort-Curious Rocks

-Fine Mountains in Distance-Wady Hesmeh-Watershed-El-Guerrah—

Departure of Sheikh Mohammed-The Alawin-Sunday in the Plain—

Singular Remains of Temple-Sand Storm-Curious Chamber hewn in the

Rock-Sinaitic Inscriptions-Great Ruins of Humeiyŭmeh-Description

and Dimensions of some of Remains-Remarkable Fall in the Land and

Gorges beyond—Storm of Wind and Rain-Old Well-Fine Turf-Mount

Seir-Extraordinary Rocks and Clefts-Mount Hor-Reservoir for Water-

Cold Temperature-Wonderful Colouring of Rocks near Petra-Wady

Músa-Eljy-Description of Arabia Petræa-History of Idumea-The

Horites The Maccabees-The Nabatheans-The Romans-The Trade

with India-The Crusaders-Re-discovery of Petra by Burckhardt-The

Risks he ran-Other Travellers-Connection between Petra and Kadesh. 187

CHAPTER IX.

PETRA.

Entrance to Wady Musa-Tombs-The Sik Valley-Remains of Tombs-

Extraordinary Character of the Defile-Wonderful Colouring of Rocks-

Aqueduct for supplying Petra-First View of the Khuzneh-Its Exquisite

Beauty-Description of the Monument-Sculptures and Friezes-The

Theatre-Fine View from it-Meditation on Strangeness of the Scene-

The Main Range of Tombs-Style of Decorations-Tints of the Rock-The

Corinthian Tomb-Tomb with Three Tiers of Columns-Great Variety of

and Extent of Tombs-Ruins of the City-Banks of the Stream-Pha-

raoh's Palace-Annoyance we suffered from Fellaheen-Danger of taking

Relics from them-Return to our Camp-Crowds of Arabs-Their Angry

Bearing The Khuzneh again-Tumult among the Fellaheen-Anxious

Night spent by us- -Morning in Petra-Affairs smoothed over-Our March

resumed—The Acropolis and Tombs-Arrival of Principal Sheikh of

Petra-We again Encamp for Night-El-Deir-Description of it-Exten-

sive View-Object of the Structure-Our Guides disappear-Ibex Hunting

-Return to Camp-The superior Appearance of our New Visitors-The

Prince of Wales-Mount Hor-Aaron's Tomb-Reflections upon the Tombs

and Ruins of Petra-Its Desolation and Ruin

PAGE

208

CHAPTER X.

PETRA TO HEBRON.

Final Departure from Petra-Sheikh not pleased-Very steep Descent to

Wady Arabah-Doubtful Land-Decide to push on during Night—Stillness

of our March-Ain el-Weibeh-Its Identity with Kadesh-Importance of

Kadesh as a Station of the Israelites-Uninteresting Scenery-The Sufâh

Pass-Its Breakneck and Fatiguing Character-View from Summit of

Pass-Approach to Holy Land-Reflections on Desert Tour-Meeting with

Arabs-Another Moonlight March-Extreme Caution of our Movements-

Enter Judæa-Entire Change in Character of Scenery-Beautiful Wild

Flowers-Approach to Hebron-Lose our Way-Arrival at the Town-

Valley of Eschol-Ancient Date of Town-Its History-Large Reservoirs

-Jewish Lodging-house-Indifferent Cuisine-Cave of Macphelah--Glass

Works-Departure of Alawin Escort-Start for Jerusalem-Abraham's

Oak Hill Country of Judæa-Pools of Solomon-Their great Size and

massive Construction-Sight of Bethlehem-Rachel's Tomb-Convent of

Mar Elias-First View of the Holy City-Emotions it caused us- -Histo-

rical Retrospect

240

CHAPTER XI.

JERUSALEM.

Entrance to City-Look for Apartments-The Bishop of Jerusalem-Anglican

Church and Worship-Other Services Charitable Institutions-Population

of Jerusalem-The Jews-Their Sects-The Christians-Greeks-Ar-

menians-Latins-and other Sects-Tour of the City-Jaffa Gate-Chris-

tian Quarter-Damascus Gate-Mohammedan Quarter-Valley of Jehosha-

phat-Pool of Bethesda-St. Stephen's Gate-Massive Walls-The Haram

-Site of Solomon's Temple-The Golden Gate-Brook Kedron-Large

Stones-Tombs in Valley of Jehoshaphat-Tyropcon Valley-Mount

Zion-Lepers-Armenian Convent-Interior of Church-Pilgrims' Service

-English Church-Via Dolorosa-Jews' Place of Wailing-Pool of Siloam

-Tomb of Absalom-Garden of Gethsemane-Mount Moriah-Mosque of

Omar-Description of Interior-Threshing-floor of Araunah-Mosque El-

Aksa-Ride to Bethlehem-Church of the Nativity-Interior-The Manger

-Church of the Holy Sepulchre-Its History-Sights outside the Church

-The Rotunda and Dome-The Sepulchre-Mount Calvary-Protestant

Burying-ground-Tombs of the Kings-Mount of Olives-Chapel of the

Princess De la Tour d'Auvergne-Tombs of the Prophets-Excursion to

Jericho and Dead Sea-An Addition to our Party-Fine View of the Plains

of Jordan-Large Number of Tents-The Plains of Jordan-The River-

The Dead Sea-A Salt-water Bath-Great Influx of Water to the Lake-

Ascend the Mountains-The Grave of Moses-Bethany

PAGE

260

CHAPTER XII.

JERUSALEM TO DAMASCUS.

Start from Jerusalem-Neby Samwil-Bethel-Hill Country of Benjamin—
Ain Yebrûd-The Robbers' Fountain-Sinjil-Shiloh-The Tabernacle set
up here-Ancient Remains-Road to Nablous-Hawara-Plain of Shechem
—View of Hermon-Ascent of Mount Gerizim-Site of Samaritan Temple
-Samaritan Feast of the Passover-Origin of the Samaritans-Shechem-
The Modern Nablous-Very Ancient Copy of the Pentateuch-Creed of the
Samaritans-Jacob's Well-Deep Interest of this Spot-Enter the Town---
Our Camping Place-Beautiful Gardens and Trees-Fine Situation of
Nablous-Samaritan Synagogue-Visit from a Syrian Missionary--Account
of his Work-Samaria-Its Situation and History-Sieges and Miraculous
Events which took place-Church of St. John the Baptist-Remains of
Herod's Temple-View from Samaria-Plain of Sharon-The 'Drowning
Meadow-A Troublesome Chieftain-First View of Esdraelon-Jenin-
The Great Plain of Esdraelon-Description and History-Scene of some of

Israel's Momentous Conflicts-Grand Associations-Jezreel-Mount Carmel

-Gilboa-Scene of the Death of Saul-Village of Shunem-Nain-Meet-

ing with Americans-Mount Tabor-Steep Ascent-Ruins on Summit-

Noble View from Top of Mountain-Approach to Nazareth-Arrive at Town

-New Protestant Church-Rev. Mr. Zeller-Sunday at Nazareth-Mount

of Precipitation-Church of the Annunciation-Fountain of the Virgin—

Pretty Jewish Maidens-Their Peculiar Costume-Extensive View from

Nazareth-Visit from Rev. Mr. Zeller-Misgovernment by the Turks-Taxes

and Tribute-Kefr Kenna, reputed Cana of Galilee-Scene of the Miracle

-Horns of Hattin-First Sight of Sea of Galilee-Its deserted and lone

Aspect Description of Tiberias-Its History-Hot Springs-Camp near

the Lake-Stroll through the Town-Jewesses sewing-Journey along

Shores of the Lake-Exquisite Beauty of the Flowers-Magdala-Sites of

Capernaum, Bethsaida, and Chorazin-Khan Minyeh identified with Caper-

naum-Beautiful Fountain-Khan Jubb Yusuf-Last View of Galilee-

Wild Flowers-Storks-The Jordan and Lake Huleh-Ain Mellâhah--

Heavy Rain-Hills of Kadesh Naphtali-Buffaloes Ploughing-The Lark—

Soldiers' Tents Cross the Jordan-Tell el-Kady-One Source of the

Jordan-Dan-Its History-English Park Scenery-Arrival at Banias-

Interesting Ruins of Cæsarea Philippi-Main Source of the Jordan-His-

tory of Banias-Castle of Subeibeh-Its Immense Size and Strength-Fine

View on the Upper Plains of Jordan and Lake Huleh-Handsome Druse

Girls-Ascend Shoulder of Hermon-Er-Ram-View of Part of Plain of

Damascus and the Hauran-Beit Jenn-The River Pharpar-Kefr Hauwar

-Artuz-Richness of the Gardens and Foliage near Damascus-Entrance

to the City

PAGE

286

CHAPTER XIII.

DAMASCUS TO BAALBEC AND BEYROUT.

Matchless Situation of the City-Its History and Antiquity-The Capital of
the Mohammedan Empire-Turks conquer it-Massacre of 1860-Dread-
ful Scenes-Christian Missions-English Church Service-Population of
City-The Pasha-Trade-Buildings-Travelling by Diligence-Dimitri's
Hotel The Bazaars-Their Variety-Scenes of Oriental Life-Shawl and
Silk Merchants-Silversmiths and other Handicraftsmen-The Castle-
The Great Plane Tree-Court of the Hotel-Visit to the Great Mosque-
Fine Interior Lovely View from Minaret of Mosque-Description of a
Private House-The British Consul--Visit to Jewish Wedding Entertain-
ment-Animated Scene outside-Brilliant Interior of House-Good Music
-Dress of Ladies-A Pas Seul-Bride's Presents-Sunday in Damascus
Environs of City-Other Sights-Start for Baalbec―The Barada—Bey-

rout

Road-Ain Fijeh-Noble Fountain-The Ancient Abila-Wady

Barada Meeting with Americans Surghaya—The Lebanon Ranges-

First Sight of Baalbec-Grandeur of the Ruins-History of Baalbec-

Interior of the Temples-Their Colossal Size-Temple of the Sun-Dimen-

sions-Huge Columns-The Six Grand Columns of Temple of Baal-Por-

tico of Temple of the Sun-The Effects of an Earthquake-Interior of

Temple-Its Dimensions-The Celebrated Three Great Stones-The

Ruins by Moonlight-Village of Baalbec-Company in the Ruins—An

Austrian Prince and Princess-Meeting with Mr. Sim-Last View of the

Ruins The Quarry-Huge Block still remaining-Plain of Bukâa-

Muallakah-Zahleh, Principal Town in the Lebanon-Druses and Maro-

nites-Religion of the Druses-Its Origin-Numbers of Tribe-Maronites

-Their History-Their Religion and Doctrines-Convents-Population—

Character of the Maronites-Stoorar-Diligence Station-Kubb Elias-

Retrospect of Our Tour-View of Hermon-Approach to Beyrout-Exten-

sive View-Beyrout-Population-Commerce-Harbour-Steam-boat Com-

panies Banks-History of Beyrout-Silk-Mulberry Trees-Rides about

the City Charitable and Religious Institutions-Syrian Protestant

College-British Syrian Schools-Schools of the Church of Scotland-Rev.

Mr. Robertson-New Oriental Hotel-Friends from Scotland-Excursion

to 'Dog River'-Ride along the Shore-The River-Tablets on the Rocks

-Assyrian and Egyptian Inscriptions-Rameses the Great-Latin Inscrip-

tions-Visit to Bankers-Bazaars of Beyrout-Iced Drinks-Sunday at

Beyrout-Church of American Mission-Embarkation in Austrian Lloyd's

Steamer-Turmoil on Board-Take Leave of Our Dragoman-Lovely

Evening-Farewell to the East-Conclusion

PAGE

327