the head a long white robe fell down almost to the heels, partly covering a blue linen undergarment, and they wore the voluminous trousers which are now seen frequently in the mountain villages on our way to Damascus.

Once more scrambling down to where we left our horses, we proceeded on our journey. Our path was now a continuous ascent up the mountain range, which stretches in a southern direction from the central peaks of Hermon. The whole way up we had fine views over the Jordan plain and wooded slopes of Hermon, until we reached a green tableland, in the midst of which is the small lake Er-Ram, once supposed to be a feeder, by a subterraneous channel, of the source of the Jordan. This is a shallow lake, and could afford but a scanty supply of water for so large a fountain. From this we held on a path conducting in a northern direction up to the higher shoulders of Hermon, until we gained a point from which we had an extensive view over a portion of the plain of Damascus, the Haurân, and the great marshy land towards Bashan. But we now found that we had wandered considerably from the right track, owing to our guide losing his way, and we had to make a precipitous descent into a wooded valley. There are a succession of rocky ravines, partially clothed with wood, at this part of the great Anti-Libanus range, and in some of them the white limestone cliffs rise up precipitously from the seldomtraversed mule track. About three o'clock in the afternoon we came to the village of Beit Jenn, situated where two valleys meet, through one of which courses a fine Alpine

stream of blue snow-water that foams and sparkles amidst boulders and fallen rocks. The village is partially concealed by poplars, willows, and other trees which flourish near the stream, along whose cultivated banks we pursued our way. This stream is a principal tributary of the ancient Pharpar, one of the rivers of Damascus.

Our camping-place was Kefr Hauwar, a large village surrounded by gardens and fine walnut trees, inhabited partly by Druses and partly by Moslems. There are some fragments of ruins in this village, which is situated a few hundred yards from the river Awaj, the main tributary of the Pharpar. This stream rises at the base of Hermon, drains some of the wild ravines, and then joins the Jennâny. A good many of the inhabitants of Kefr Hauwar came about our tents, with eggs and other provisions to sell, but I did not specially fancy their appearance. We were off betimes the following morning, elated at the prospect of reaching Damascus, but had a tiresome ride of some hours across a bare desert. Passing a succession of bleak hillocks and scrubby hollows between, we at length, from a rising ground, caught sight of the celebrated plain surrounding the oldest city in the world. Those travellers, however, who traverse this route will be disappointed if they expect the vast verdant plain all at once to burst on their gaze, for, owing to the gradual way it is approached from the defiles of Anti-Libanus, there is no commanding view to be gained.

We stopped for a short time at the small hamlet of Artûz, not far from which is the Roman road from Egypt and

Palestine to Damascus, and near this is the traditional locality of the conversion of St. Paul. A swiftly running stream fertilises the district here, passing on to the great plain, and now we are in the midst of beauty and cultivation. After leaving Artûz we were soon fairly in the plain, surrounded on all sides with rich cornfields, olivegroves and orchards, while in front there spread out a perfect sea of verdure stretching away in distant perspective until the horizon was bounded by a range of mist-covered mountains. Holding along the broad track and feasting our eyes upon the ocean of foliage in front, amidst which the white minarets of the city rose up to view, we now saw in all directions that system of canals and watercourses which completely irrigate the plain. It is no very easy matter to get inside the city, for there are so many lanes outside the walls conducting through interminable gardens and plots of ground full of mulberry, walnut, olive, apricot, apple, pear, plum and fig trees, that you get completely confused, unless an experienced guide is with you. At last, however, we discovered a small and shabby gate, through whose portals we entered the celebrated city which we had come so far to visit.

CHAPTER XIII.

DAMASCUS TO BAALBEC AND BEYROUT.

THE situation of Damascus is unique. A glittering white city rising from a billowy mass of verdure, stretching for miles through the broad plain more than thirty miles long which is bounded on three sides by lofty mountain chains. Beyond the fruit orchards and gardens, whose delicate green foliage forms the chief feature of the landscape, there come extensive meadows and cornfields, fertilised by the 'Abana and Pharpar.' The first of these rivers is now identified with the Barada, which rises in the wild ravines of the Anti-Libanus range. It flows through a deep gorge in the hills clothed abundantly with trees and banks of turf, passes through the city and spreads itself over the thirsty plain. The Awaj, or Pharpar, flows into the plain by that part of it which we had already traversed, and after watering the richly-cultivated country through which it courses, enters one of the three lakes that lie to the east of Damascus.

The origin of the city is lost in remote antiquity. According to Josephus, it was founded by Uz, the great-grandson of Noah. It was a place of some consequence in the time of

Abraham, and at a subsequent period its kings made war against Israel. Damascus long continued to be a great commercial capital, and a century before the Christian era it once more became a royal residence. In the year 64 B.C. the city was occupied by the Romans under Pompey, and a proconsul sometimes resided in it. The apostle Paul visited it about the year 37 A.D., and Christianity made considerable progress there, while about the beginning of the second century the great temple was converted into a Christian church. For three centuries the worship of Christ prevailed, but at length, in 634, Damascus fell under Mohammedan rule, though the Christians were permitted to retain seven churches and to remain undisturbed in their faith. In the year 661 Damascus became the capital of the Mohammedan empire, under the warlike dynasty of the Omeiyades, who spread their conquering arms over vast portions of Europe and Asia. The city was now adorned with sumptuous buildings; amongst them the great mosque was redecorated, which, originally a heathen temple, had subsequently been used as a Christian cathedral.

For six or seven centuries Damascus was comparatively prosperous, though occasional attacks were made upon it by the Crusaders and others, with no definite result. Then, in 1401, Tamerlane burst upon the devoted city with his wild hordes, and a terrible massacre occurred, incited by that cruel warrior in utter violation of his express treaty. There is a tradition that only one Christian family escaped out of a large population, and the greater part of the city was