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Like a Barbarie Queen
And I on the seven hills to sway On the Euphrates shore,
That Senate House of King's conven'd, In purple and fine linen was she pallid, On me their guide and stay Nor flower nor laurel green,
Ever the Roman counsels leaned
In dangers lofty way.
And not Marcellus' fiercer battle tone;
And I on the Tarpeian did deliver Sparkled a flattery sweet and condescending; Afric a captive, and through me Nile flow'd And from her inmost bosom sent,
Under the laws of the great Latin river, Came accents of most wonderous gentleness, And of his bow and quiver Officious and intent
The Parthian rear'd a trophy high and To thrall my soul in soft imprisonment.
broad : And, “ place (she said) thy hand within The Dacian's fierce inroad my hair,
Against the gates of iron broke, And all around thou'lt see
Taurus and Caucasus endured my yoke : Delightful chances fair
Then my vassal and my slave On golden feet come dancing unto thee. Did every native land of every wind beMe Jove's daughter shalt thou own
come, That with my sister fate
And when I had o'ercome Sits by his side in state
All carth beneath my feet, I gave On the eternal throne.
The vanquish'd world in one great gift to Great Neptane to my will the ocean gives,
Other daughters of Great Jove
Have taken their Imperial station, Unless their flying sails I guide
And queen-like tly submissive passions Where over the smooth tide On my sweet spirit's wings I ride.
From them thou hop'st a high and god-like I banish to their bound
fate, The storms of dismal sound,
From them thy haughty verse presages And o'er them take my stand with foot se- An everlasting sway o'er distant ages rene;
And with their glorious rages
Thy mind intoxicate
Thou liv'st, with want within, and raiment
Gentle regard; I, I alone The Indians empire; by Orontes set To new and lofty venture call thee out; The royal tiar the Assyrian wore ; Then follow, thus besought, Hung jewels on the brow of Babylon, Waste not thy soul in thought; By Tigris wreath'd the Persian's coronet, Brooks nor sloth nor lingering And at the Macedonian's foot bow'd every The great moment on the wing. throne.
“ A blissful lady and immortal, born It was my lavish gift,
From the eternal mind of Deity,
(I answer'd, bold and free),
And steeps it in the light of her rich morn,
Than the kingdoms thou canst lavish, My royal spirits oft
Gifts thou canst nor give nor ravish : Their solemn mystic round
And though my spirit may not comprehend On Rome's great birth-day wound : Thy chances bright and fair, And I the haughty Eagles sprung aloft Yet neither doth her sight offend Unto the Star of Mars upborne,
The aspect pale of miserable care : Til, poising on their plumy sails,
Horror to her is not They 'gan their native vales
Of this coarse raiment, and this humble cot; And Sabine palms to scorn :
She with the golden muses doth abide,
And oh! the darling children of thy pride Of my revenge a slighter sign ;
Yet will I make its fearful sound
Till seem the gentle pipings low,
Then sprung she on her flight, Its locks of bloody red,
Furious, and at her call, She burst in wrathful menace then :
Upon my cottage did the storms alight,
But I, with brow serene,
And lightning flashing pale,
Devour the promise green
Of my poor native vale.
Morning-Scenes in the Dressing-room
SCENE II. And bar'd them to the pitiless element. Well I remember when his armed grasp Hair-dressers-Salves-Hair-painting From Afric stretch'd, rash Xerxes took his
-Mirrors-Hair-pins. stand Upon the formidable bridge to clasp And manacle sad Europe's trembling hand: BEAUMARCHAIS, that witty merchant, In the great day of battle there was 1, that incomparable painter of manners, Busy with myriads of the Persian slaughter. whose memory is kept fresh among The Salaminian sea's fair face to dye, our fair readers by the Figaro and the That yet admires its dark and bloody water; Tarare, found a little silk cloak one Full vengeance wreak’d I for the affront
night, in the Pantheon at Vauxhall, Done Neptune at the fetter'd Hellespont. and had the skill to extract from it
To the Nile then did I go, The fatal collar wound,
alone the age, the height, the comThe fair neck of the Egyptian Queen around; plexion, nay, more wonderful still, the And I the merciless poison made to flow inclinations and propensities of its Into her breast of snow.
beautiful owner-her true and her Ere that within the mined cave,
false nature--her life and her love. I forc'd dark Afric's valour stoop
It must be allowed, that Beaumarchais Confounded, and its dauntless spirit droop, deserves more credit for this than the When to the Carthaginian brave, With mine own hand, the hemlock draught which enabled them, from the colossal
English themselves do for the science And Rome through me the ravenous flame hand they picked up in Egypt, to asIn the heart of her great rival, Carthage, cast, certain, that the statue to which it That went through Lybia wandering, a
had belonged must have been precisescorn'd shade,
ly one hundred and twenty feet tall. Till, sunk to equal shame,
Would that we could light upon some Her mighty enemy at last
fragment of the head-dress, some knot A shape of mockery was made ;
or pin that had belonged to our SaThen miserably pleasid, Her fierce and ancient vengeance she appeas'd, that kind would, I am sure, enable
bina! A single fortunate discovery of And even drew a sigh Over the ruins vast
my fair and intelligent readers to unOf the deep-hated Latin majesty.
derstand, without the smallest diffiI will not call to mind the horrid sword culty, every part of the dressing-scene Upon the Memphian shore,
which follows. How active and alert Steep'd treasonously in great Pompey's gore; would be their fancy, could they but Nor that for rigid Cato's death abhorr'd ; have before their eyes some actual reNor that which in the hand of Brutus wore, lic of Sabina's toilette! I wish we had The first deep colouring of a Cæsar's blood, at least one of those dressing-pins of Nor will I honour thee with my high mood which there are said to be so many in Of wrath, that kingdoms doth exterminate ; the Museum Gabinum, that mine of Incapable art thou
of my great hate, As my great glories. Therefore shall be rarities dug from the ruins of Gabii, thine
by the insatiable Prince Borghese, and
his friend Gavin Hamilton! Who ladies—the sine qua non of beauty. knows but some of these, picked out She who has not received such hair of urns and cemeteries, might have from nature, must thank art for the once been the property of our Domina boon; and so is it with our Sabina. herself? But, alas! the ideas of the In vain has she as yet tried every outItalian collectors have been sadly landish pomade, and caustic-soap, for changed, by means of French requisi- the colouring of her locks.* Their tions on the one hand, and English dark brown has indeed become lighter guineas on the other; and I fear we in its die, but they still want the high could expect very little, even from golden lustre, the exquisite reddish. more generous people than Prince Already had she almost made up her Borghese. * As it is, my friends must mind to take the bold step recombe contented with the best that a mended by some, but strenuously poor, though an indefatigable, Cicerone condemned by others of her advisers, can afford them.
of cutting off, unmercilessly, her stubThe smoothened, polished, painted born locks, and buying, in their stead, Sabina, with her new-born teeth and a beautiful blonde periwig, from an eyebrows, now summons her circle of old woman by the Temple of Herhair-dressing girls, who to-day must cules, who had just received a supply exert, to the utmost, every art of a- of the genuine Sicambrian yellow dorning that lies within their pro- from the banks of the Rhine. But, in vince. To-day is the 15th of July- these days, a peruque was considered to-day is the solemn mustering of the as the dernier resort, a thing never to Roman knights; and every Roman be used unless every possible means lady that pretends to any admiration, of avoiding it failed; because one who either of horses or horsemen, has se- wore a periwig could not hope to concured a place in the balcony of some ceal her trick from the company she of her friends that live in the holy met with in the Public Baths. How street (via sacra) where the procession much does Horace laugh over the ill is to pass. The young Saturninus, luck of the witch, Sagana, who in her long the faithful dangler of Sabina, her beau at every promenade and every assembly, is to ride in the front of tava. Luveau, in his histoire de France this festal parade of Castor and Pollux avant Clovis, gives, as the causes of the (the tutelaries of the day), and is no change which has taken place in the colour doubt to “ witch, with noble horse of French hair, the use of mustard and the manship,” the eyes and hearts of all mixture of Italian blood. He might perthe window-gazers around him. What and other changes in the mode of living.
haps have added, the increased use of wine, a spur does all this give to the toilette
• How strange are the variations of slaves of Sabina! How fervently does fashion! At present, every lady in France the Domina wish that she may look or England, who has any tinge of the red so beautiful in her balcony, as to dis- in her hair, is sure to employ means for algrace the choice of her lover neither tering it. Exactly the reverse was the case in his own eyes nor in those of her with the ancient Roman ladies. The causrivals.
tic soap (the spuma caustica of Martial (xiv. Gold-yellow hair, with a tendency described by Pliny, xxviii. 12. Compare
26), the mode of preparing which is justly to the fire-red, has been, ever since Wesseling on Diodorus, t. 1. p. 351)the conquests in Gaul and Germany which was sent for from France for the pur(where hair of that sort was then uni- pose of reddening the hair, when it was apversal),the rage among the Roman plied to any other part of the body, pro
ducing a most unhealthy and bloating efThis prince, with all his love for cob fect. Read the history of a certain heroic lecting, was so mean, that when his wife Roman in Plutarch (t.'ü. p. 771, ed frank.), has gone with him to a party, he has been and compare it with some passages in Beckknown to sell the antique rings and cameos man's History of Inventions, vol. iv. S. 5. off her person.
The burning effect of the application is + All the authorities, for this fact, may mentioned in a fragment of Cato's origines, be seen most diligently collected, for the ho preserved by Servius" Mulieres nostras nour of his country, by the Dutch philolo. cinere capiŪum ungitabant ut rutilus esset gist Joannes Arnzen, in his learned treatise erinis.” Isaac Vossius (in Catullum, p. 142) de Capillorum Coloribus et Tinctura. The deduces, from the use of this soap, the name red or yellow-staining pomatum is, by the Cinerarius, which occurs as applied to one way, called in Martial (viii. 33.) Spuma Ba- of the attendants of the Roman lady's toilette: panic parted with her wig !* Sabina, the city in this has she spent the therefore, would fain avoid having re- whole night ; and now is come the course to this anchor of necessity. important moment, when the bandages Luckily Nape,t the eldest and most are to be removed by Nape, and the confidential of her hair attendants, has efficacy or inefficacy of the spell to be received the recipe for a totally new ascertained. “Oh! how red !” “ Augold-salve, from a Gallic perfumer rora herself is not more golden haired !" who has his booth near the Circus Such are the unanimous exclamations Maximus. The hair must be care- of the attendants, and Sabina, between fully washed over and over with this her own wishes and their assurances, new water of deceit, and then suffered is persuaded, when she looks into her to dry and crisp in the sun. # Sabina, mirror, that her hair is red! She smiles in order that she may have perfect with joyful satisfaction, and seats herleisure to try the effect of this new re- self loftily in the Cathedra, where four medy, has passed some days in the attendants are to finish the last and country, at à celebrated bath.-Yes- most costly part of her coiffure, while terday morning she had her hair com- Kalamis applies the iron which she pletely saturated for the last time with has made hot in a little silver basin of a dry golden powder and this far-famed charcoal, and crisps the hair in the salve, curled with a hot-iron, and then front into small curls and ringlets packed up into a sort of cap, which is (meches et crochets.) Psecus, with a again covered with a species of blad- dexterity which only long practice der.g In this attire has she been into could produce, tinctures the long float
ing locks that are to be bound upon Sermon. I. 8. 48, altum Saganæ Ca- the summit with costly nard-oil and Tiendrum, &c.
oriental essences, in order that for the But we must not forget that there is a whole day they may exhale the breath great difference between the different pe- of Ambrosia. What the comical Luriods of Roman fashion, and perhaps, in cian says is the passage already quoted the text, this is a little overlooked. It is by us, that "they lavish the whole true, that the earlier Roman poets do speak substance of their husbands upon the about crincs cmptæ, bought hair, &c. but it is always with disgust and in derision. hair, so that all Arabia seems to When Messalina, for example, wishes to breathe from the locks of one of them,” assume the appearance of a Mulier perdita, is now proved to be no exaggeration. she covers her black hair with a yellow wig The Greek historians inform us, that (nigrum flavo crinem abscondente galero). the Queen of Persia had the revenues The careful historiographer of peruques, of great cities and provinces set apart Nicolai ( uber d. gebrauch der falschen haare for their salve-money; and perhaps und perucken in alten und neuen zeiten mit 66 kupfern Berlin 1801), has distinguished, in her ideas. It is true, that she is
our Sabina is scarcely less extravagant with great accuracy, between the early period when periwigs were worn only from ignorant of many sweet smelling powthe last necessity, or by courtezans, and the ders and extracts afterwards known by later, in which the use of false hair was as the names of Pompadour, Kingston, universal at Rome as it has ever been in Portland, &c. but what are all these Paris. The bald marble busts at Potsdam, when compared with the apparatus of from which one can remove the marble peri- salve-flasks and Narthekia, possessed wigs, are a sufficient proof of the univer- by a Roman lady of the first rank? sality of the mode at one time. But indeed, with regard to these, Visconti has made a very delicate observation, viz. that the statues might have been made bald by the or- The slaves who applied it were called
by der of their vain originals, simply that they the very singular name of Ciniflones. The might be, from time to time, altered so as not
cap for covering the hair was called properto disgrace their fashion, or, perhaps, betray ly Calantica. The use of the bladder is their age.--See Muscum Pio-Clementinum, mentioned by Martial (viii. 33). t. ii. t. 51. p. 91. + The name of a hairdressing girl in
Fortiter intortos servat vesica capillos, Ovid.
The hair was sometimes put into a net-cap # Bartolinus asserts, that the modern Ita- or redesilla ; the proper Greek name for lian ladies make use of the sun's rays for this was xixquoados, which is rendered by colouring their hair.—See Reinesius In- Hesychius outaxaboy, darunterzon. The seript, class. ii. 89.
Greek ladies used this kind of cap as com$ The iron with which the hair was monly as the Spanish or Italian ladies do at curled was called xanaps, or calamistrum. this day their redesillas.
The perfume dealers of Antioch and Cupid in her arms. But a luckier Alexandria had, with wonderful inven thought at last recalled to Kypassis a tiveness, subdivided these articles of pin which bore on its summit a godluxury, and enhanced their price. dess of plenty (Abundantia) with a Two articles of Indian produce, the dolphin on her left, and in her right root of the plant kostum,* and the leaf hand the cornucopia ; on her head the of the spikenard, were in general the two high horns, the well-known symprincipal and the most costly ingre- bols of Isis. Sabina had been wont dients in those salve-oils. But these to wear this pin when she attended the perfumes were so varied by their minor worship of Isis by the side of Tiber; refinements, that in the work of an and on one of these occasions her Saancient physician upon the art of the turninus had of late attended her by toilette, five and twenty different spe- the appointment of Kypassis. The pin cies are enumerated. So soon as itself, moreover, was a new year's gift Psceas has finished her work, Kypassis of the youth, and Sabina well undera begins hers,-a negress slave, active, stood the meaning of Kypassis in secunning, flattering, the best of all go- lecting it. It was at that time the betweens, the confidante and favour- custom for Roman gallants to send ite of Sabina. The principal ma- such articles of dress to their misnagement of this department of the tresses, wrapped up in little pieces of toilette falls to her share. It is hers parchment, containing love mottos. to arrange the locks already combed Of these the poet of fashion and galand perfumed by the others-it is hers lantry, Martial, had composed an into form them into that high and swel- numerable variety for every possible ling shape which, in the language of occasion, and every possible ornament. the Roman fair, was called generally The golden pin of Saturninus was unNodus, the knot, but of which there folded from a covering which bore on were a thousand varieties, and a thou- it these words : * sand minor appellations. The dark “Tenuiane madidi violent Bombycina crines, Kypassis now selects from the casket Figat acus tortas sustineatque comas !"4 of her mistress the large and sculptur- Nape, the superintendent of the ed dressing-pin, which is to bind to whole band, herself a scientific misgether the whole mass of locks ; nor tress of hair-dressing, now terminates is her choice without its difficulties. the labour of her inferiors. Her lady The object is to select that whose or- has taken care to have her educated in naments may express, by the happiest the theory as well as the practice of allusion, something of the secret wishes the art, so that she can pronounce of the wearer. The first she pull- à skilful judgment concerning eed out was one, the head of which very variety of coiffure, and tell with represented a rich Corinthian capital, the precision of an artist, what suits sustaining a statue of Psyche, with and what does not suit every particu
lar shape of head, every form of counThe first of these was called (par excellence) radix, the root; the second folium, The same thing which was called by the the leaf. Our first accurate information Greeks xogap@lov or ngoevos was, in Latin, concerning the nature of each has been de- Nodus. The pin or needle which fastened rived from the English writers who have this was the acus discriminalis. This pin, visited Calcutta ; as, Sir W. Jones in the which was of many inches in length, was at Asiatic Miscellanies, and Gilbert Blanc in times hollow, and might be made to contain the Philosophical Transactions, vol. cxxx. poison, like the ring of Hannibal. This p. 2. The great consumption of these ar. use seems to have been made of it by the ceticles in the cosmetic art was one principal lebrated poisoning woman Martina (see Tacause of the enormous traffic in the spices citus, Annal
. III. 7.); and indeed it has been of India, which was then to the gold what thought by many, that Cleopatra terminated China is now to the silver of Europe. See her existence by means of a poison-pin of Dr Robertson's Historical Disquisition, the same kind, fashioned in the shape of an s. II. p. 54. &c.
asp. See Dio Cassius, s. 644. 24. with the + Crito, physician the Empress Plo- note of Reimarus. In countries where the tina. See his list of these essences and salves excise is very strictly attended to, we some. in Fabricus Bibl. Græc. vol. xii. p. 690. times hear of modern ladies smuggling lace
Negress slaves practised the same arts, under their periwigs. The ancient dames and attained the same favour among the concealed in the same way the instrument of Roman ladies as they do now among the death. Who need wonder, after this, at the lazy Creole, or European Ladies in the naif and heroic style of the Antique ? West India Islands and Brazil.
+ Martial, xiv. 24. VOL. IV.