overwhelming numbers of the French, after the conclusion of the Austrian campaign, rendered all farther resist ance altogether hopeless, and the severity of the season obliged the peasants to descend from the higher Alps, in which they had so nobly maintained their freedom, into the vallies, where their valour was unavailing against the numbers and discipline of their enemies; but the limits of a sketch of this nature, forbid our entering upon their narrative. road side often bowed their heads; and withered arms were seen to stretch themselves from the rocks in the remoter recesses of the mountains. As the time approached when the deliverance of Europe was at hand, and the march of the Russian troops was spreading joy and hope throughout the subjugated realms of Germany, these omens assumed a more joyful character. Vast armies of visionary soldiers, marching with banners flying, and all the splendour of military triumph, were seen at sunrise reflected in the lakes which bordered on the Austrian empire. The Emperor's tower in the castle of Kuffstein was often seen surrounded with lambent fire, and the Austrian banner, wrapt in flames, was seen to wave at night over the towers of Sterzing. In the gloom of the evening endless files of soldiers, cavalry, infantry, and artillery, clad in the Austrian uniform, were seen to traverse the inaccessible ranges of rocks which lie on the Salzburgh frontier. The shepherds who had ascended farthest into these desolate regions heard the creaking of the wheels, the tramp of the horses, the measured tread of the foot-soldiers, intermingled with loud bursts of laughter, and shouts of triumph, amidst rocks on which no human foot had ever trode. And when the widows and orphans of the fallen warriors knelt before the Virgin, the flowers and garlands placed round the image, according to the amiable custom of Catholic countries, and which had remained there till they were withered, burst forth in renovated foliage and beauty, and spread their fragrance around the altar, as if to mark the joy of the dead for the approaching deliverance of their country. (To be continued.) After the country had finally submitted to the French yoke, a deep and settled melancholy pervaded the minds of the peasantry; and the idea universally prevailed, that their subjugation was the punishment of some sins which they had committed. Among a people excessively prone to religious enthusiasm, and with minds strongly tinctured with a belief in spiritual interposition, this melancholy feeling produced an universal disposition to superstition. Innumerable instances of miracles and supernatural appearances are told by the people in all parts of the country during the years when they were subjected to the Bavarian yoke. The imaginations of the peasants, roused by the animating commencement and melancholy termination of the war, wandered without control; but their superstitions were elevated by the contemplation of the sublime natural scenery with which they were surrounded, and partook of the pure and spiritual character of the feelings with which they were impressed. On many occasions the images of their patron saints were seen to shed tears, as if bewailing the subjugation of their country. The travellers who had been out after sunset narrated, that the crucifixes on the EXTRACT FROM A TOUR THROUGH FRANCE, DURING THE SUMMER OF 1818. I LEFT the town of Nancy at daybreak, in a small coach or diligence, open in front, with two rows of seats in the interior. As we passed the outer gate of the town, we found a number of peasants waiting for entrance, which it seems is denied them until a certain hour. The barriers were withdrawn on our approach, and they pressed rapidly in with their clean baskets filled with butter and eggs. In 10th deed, for some miles from Nancy we met many men and women journeying to market with the produce of their farms. The morning bore a promising aspect, being calm and dewy-extensive low lying ridges of grey fleecy clouds skirted the north and south-their eastern extremities being tinged with crimson by the rising sun, while from the orient itself long coloured rays of light were seen diverging in every direction from a distant forest of pines which skirted the horizon. We travelled for some time over a picturesque and well cultivated country, with considerable variety in the prospect. The vallies were frequently rich, with groups of cottages and groves of trees-the higher grounds occasionally presenting the spectre of some ancient castle, while in the back ground there were lines of distant mountains scarcely discernible among the wreaths of vapour with which they were surrounded. There is something very delightful to my mind in contemplating the remains of the old magnificence of France. The sound of a trumpet among the ruins of a French castle is sufficient to awaken all the majestic forms of departed chivalry, even though that trumpet should be blown by a liveried lacquey, and the soldiers to whom it speaks commanded by a coward lord. About ten in the morning we arrived at Luneville, where we took breakfast. Nothing attracted my attention in this town, except an old palace of great extent. It is built upon rising ground, nearly opposite the Auberge, where our vehicle stopped; and from this mount there is an extensive view of a fine open country on every side. I am ignorant of its history, but was informed that it has lately undergone some repairs for the accommodation of a German prince in the service of the French king. After leaving Luneville we entered a romantic country. The day was delightful in the extreme, though rather hot, and the horizon which we were approaching was bounded by fine hills which form the French boundary to the rich valley of Alsace. There was a beautiful river flowing along close to the road the whole way. It is called the Meurthethe same indeed which runs in the neighbourhood of Nancy-but there it is broad and deep, with low regular banks, and its waters are much discoloured by the nature of the soil; whereas, from above Luneville onwards, the banks are broken and irregular-in some places richly wooded with oak and birch; the river itself assumes a variety of windings, and its waters are beautifully clear, with a fine rocky or gravel bed. The whole of this day's ride was truly de lightful. Towards evening we approached those lofty mountains which in the morning we had indistinctly seen skirting the horizon, and mingled with clouds and vapour. They are very beautiful in their forms, and covered in many places with luxuriant wood. They are known under the name of the Vosges, and are in fact a continuation of that great chain of mountains called the Jura Alps, which separate the south-eastern parts of France from the territory of Geneva, and the Pays-de-vaud. I shall not soon forget the sensations of delight and awe with which I approached them. Having been for nearly eighteen months unaccustomed to the sight of any hill higher than Montmartre, and bearing still in mind the flat luxuriance of Holland, there appeared to me something of a supernatural grandeur in these hoary cliffs, with their superb clothing of ancient pine-trees-while as far as the eye could reach through the deep glens, blue ridges of mountains arose with their grey and misty tops almost lost in the heavens. On turning again to the westward, the contrast was singularly striking. The open country over which we had passed lay extended like an immense plain, while here and there "The spire whose silent finger points to heaven," and the tall groves of the poplar tree, marked the scite of the different towns and villages which we had left behind. The broad yellow light of the sun threw a splendid colouring on the landscape, and the winding river, spreading as it receded, was seen rolling its burnished waters in the distance. By degrees the river became narrower, and more abrupt and rapid, till at length it assumed the aspect of an Alpine stream. We were now in the immediate neighbourhood of the mountain chain, which no longer appeared like one solid mass, but disclosed through various defiles many beautiful little vales, clothed with rich pasture, and enlivened by groups of peasants' houses. By this time, however, "twilight gray" had began to spread her sober mantle; and although some of the highest cliffs still reflected the ruddy glow of the setting sun, the vallies were becoming rapid ly dark and obscure. Ere long we found ourselves in the town of St Die, where we halted for the night. Here there was for a time a slight interruption of that calm and placid state of things which to me is so inseparable from enjoyment. A French officer, who was now pretty far advanced in intoxication, had, it seems, engaged a chaise to carry him from St Die, at a certain hour, to a certain place. When that hour arrived, the vehicle came to the door as was meet; but the officer, who had indulged pretty freely during supper, felt himself so comfortable in his situation, that he determined to remain where he was, and accordingly ordered the postilion to return in the morning. Now, by the laws of posting in this country, it is ordained, that he who orders a chaise to his door for the purpose of undertaking any journey, must either adhere to his intention, or defray one half of the charges which would have been incurred in the event of the proposed journey being completed. But the gentleman in question refused to do either, and swore by his sabre that he should pass the night at St Die. This, of course, led to much altercation on both sides, which, while it lasted, was quite sufficient to interrupt all comfort. The maitre-despostes was at length sent for, and confirmed the position maintained by the postilion, that a payment of one half must be made before he could take his departure. In the meantime, the knight of the sabre became sober, and the interposition of magisterial authority being talked of, he thought it better to decamp; so, yielding to the importunities of mine host, who feared the disgust which his conduct might occasion to the other guests, he suffered himself to be half conducted, half dragged, into the chaise, and was soon whirled out of sight by the triumphant postilion, amid the shouts of a dozen or two of idle people, whom his noisy protestations had assembled at the door. I took a ramble for an hour or two after supper. It was a heavenly night -the moon just appearing from the side of a dark and steep mountain. She threw her pale light over a beautiful valley, in the centre of which there flowed a rapid stream, the rushing sound of which was distinctly audible. One or two white cottages were visible on the opposite side of the valley, near the outskirts of a thick wood, which extended upwards to the base of a long range of irregular and broken cliffs. These terminated the view; and above their highest peak, there was one brilliant star, which, though lovely as any among the innumerable constellations which surrounded it, appeared to belong more to earth than to heaven; and but for its clear and constant ray, it might have been deemed a beacon light among the mountain tops. I was much delighted at the prospect of so soon breathing the mountain air. I retired to bed when the moon had sunk behind the cliffs, anticipating much pleasure from crossing the mountain-chain on the ensuing morn. Indeed my passion for ascending to the tops of hills would almost induce me to believe in the transmigration of the human soul; and that, having been at some former period a chamois-hunter, or shepherd among the Alps, I still retain, in the debased spirit of a Hamburgh merchant, a fellowship with those sublime impressions which, in another' state, probably constituted the very essence of my existence. 11th. With this day's journey I was not disappointed, though, from the accounts of a fellow-traveller, my expectations had been much excited. Leaving St Die at four in the morning, we, ere long, entered a narrow valley between two high and precipitous mountains, at the base of which were many romantic cottages. The sides of these mountains were well clothed with pines, and the summits composed of grey and castellated rocks, tenanted by the eagle alone. On arriving at the head of the valley all exit seems impossible. Rocks on rocks arise, as if to bid defiance to the power and ingenuity of man. The mists of the morning were still resting on the bosom of the valley, and mid-way upon the hills, but higher up, and gray with the moss of years, with here and there a solitary pine, endeavouring to maintain the empire of vegetation, the summits lifted their venerable tops clear and unobscured to heaven. Ere long these snowy vapours "into their airy elements resolved, were gone," and we beheld a road tortuously winding up the sides of a mountain among crags and torrents, by which we were to ascend to the head of an adjoining valley. We here left the carriage, and pursuing a nearer and more direct route, after a pretty arduous ascent, gained the summit of the mountain. What a glorious view was now before our eyes! never shall I forget the valley of St Marie. The mountain air usually acts upon me like the famous elixir. I feel as if I were inhaling life, and strength, and immortality at every breath. The higher I ascend the happier I become; and when I reach the topmost summit, a singular feeling prompts me to spring upwards and leave the earth. It was this which made me enquire so anxiously when in Paris concerning the possibility of ascending with some of the Eronauts, and I greatly deplored the disappointment, when I learned that my hopes were frustrated. In the present case the change in my state of mind was sudden and remarkable, and when I contrasted my feelings while breathing with pain and difficulty the tainted air of a corrupted city, with those which I experienced as a joyful mountaineer, I could scarcely credit my personal identity. A few days ago I was groping my way by the pale light of a trembling taper, through the damp catacombs of Paris, surrounded by millions of grim grinning skulls, placed cross-ways, and in circles, as if in derision of human life; and now I was breathing the natural and balmy breath of heaven, and standing on the verge of a valley so beautiful, that peace and happiness must surely dwell in it for ever. At the mouth of the valley the fertile plain of Alsace, covered with the most luxuriant vineyards, extended its green surface for many miles, and along its distant border the course of the majestic Rhine might be traced by the long wreaths of mist which gather ed on the surface of its waters. The spires of churches, and the gleaming walls of white villages, presented themselves in every direction, and at a great distance the beautiful prospect was terminated by the blue mountains of Germany, which shewed their high summits among vast ranges of broken clouds of the purest white. As our carriage had not yet arrived from the other side of the hill, and as the road was steep and tortuous, I determined to descend into this delight ful region on foot. The village of St Marie lay at the mouth of the valley, at the distance of three miles, and there we were to remain for some time to breakfast, and refresh the horses: The road continues pretty high up the northern boundary of the vale, and the view, from the commencement of my walk, till I found myself in the little village, was as beautiful as I could have wished, and delighted me the more, having so lately passed through the unvaried scenery of Champagne. In the centre of the valley there flows a beautiful stream, as clear as crystal; the fields on either side are of the brightest and most verdant green; there are numerous flocks of cattle quietly grazing on its banks, and here and there a shepherds hut, with its little plot of orchard ground; higher up is the region of the Pines, with many glades and green terraces, formed by the hand of Nature, on which are built the cottages of the woodmen, and of those who tend the goats, while numerous troops of these picturesque animals are seen with their serried horns above the highest rocks, or reclining beneath the cool shade of some fantastic tree, and adding life and spirit to the scene, by the sweet sound of their tinkling bells and higher still is heard the shrill cry of the eagle, or the osprey returning from the banks of the Rhine, or the wilds of Suabia, with the firstling of some German flock to appease the clamour of their callow young. After a sudden and rugged descent. I entered the village of St Marie, which lies on the border of the plains of Alsace, the last limits of the French kingdom. The inhabitants of this plain are still very German in their language, manners, and intellectual character. I felt rather gratified in seeing the greater frequency of flaxen hair, and mild blue eyes, features rarely observable in France, while the "mien more grave," almost reminded me of my own respectable countrymen. The dress of the women is particularly becomingthere is something about their head dress which I do not understand, and cannot describe, though it is very graceful, and their broad white straw hats throw a soft and beautiful light on their rosy countenances. The whole of this delightful day. was occupied in journeying through Alsace. It is completely covered with vines, and the high-way is bordered with pear and plum-trees, bent to the earth with excess of fruits; Blossoms and fruits at once, of golden hue, Than in fair evening cloud, or humid bow, Our course lay nearly south from this time, and the scene in view contained some glorious features. On the right hand were the French hills, the highest in the kingdom, with spots of snow resting on their bald foreheads; before us, as far as the eye could reach, lay the fertile and beautiful Alsace; and on the left, breaking through the clouds, were the blue summits of the Suabian hills. Proceeding on our journey, we arrived towards evening at Colmar, a dirty town, but within a few miles of the German border, and the banks of the much wished for Rhine, which made ample amends for its own inherent dulness. 12th.-Nothing worthy of note occurred during my short stay in Colmar. I was informed by a valet-deplace, that a huge meteoric stone had fallen in Alsace, a long while ago, and that a large portion of it was still preserved in this town. But where it was to be seen, I was unable to learn. This valet spoke an uncouth combination of bad French, and worse Ger man. 13th.—Towards the afternoon of this day, I hired a char-a-banc, which is an open carriage, in common use here, and proceeded on my journey towards Brissac, a French town on the banks of the Rhine. Mungo Park himself could scarcely have experienced a stronger desire to behold the yellow Niger, than I did to see the boundary of the mighty Germany." Arriving at Brissac, I entered three gates, crossed over three fosses, passed under three port-cullises, and had my passport examined by an old gentleman who could neither read French, German, or Dutch, the only three languages of which it was composed. He seemed to consider it chiefly in the light of Hebrew, as he begun at the end, and then turned it upside down. A few francs were sufficient to convince him how forlorn his hopes were of becoming a linguist at so advanced a period of life. There are here two towns of the same name. The French Brissac is two or three miles from the river side, so I determined that same evening to depart for the German border. The German town called Alt-Brissac, is built upon a high and rocky promontory of the river, and presents a formidable aspect, though now in a state of great dilapi dation, having been dismantled by an opposite fortress, during the French It has still a noble appearance, and forms a fine representative of its mighty country, wars. "With gray but leafy walls, where ruin greenly dwells." At six in the evening I found myself standing by the side of the Monarch of European rivers, and a most magnificent object it is. Here it is not less than 600 feet broad, and runs apparently at the rate of nearly seven miles an hour. Immediately opposite the German fortress, its waters are confined within 200 feet of their natural bed, and the impetuous flow is prodigious; it rages past the dark rock which here endeavours to oppose its course, and appears as if rejoiced in avenging this violation of its power, on the low willowy isles which are scattered on its bosom. The trees on these islands have suffered from its force, and bend before it, there summits being only a few feet from the ground, and pointing down the stream. Even those on the banks have the same oppressed appearance, having probably felt the power of the green despot, during the raging of the winter flood. This gives a singular character to many parts of the scenery, and impresses one more forcibly than any other circumstance could do, with an idea of the strength and rapidity of the river, besides bestowing upon it the aspect of an almost living power. The sun was now sinking behind the purple summits of the mountains of Lorraine, the outline of which was bordered by a brilliant line of golden light, and many lovely clouds, adorned with the brighest hues, were resting in the western sky. The Rhine appeared in the distance sweeping down the valley, and reflecting on its waters the last beams of the God of day, while, on the opposite side, was heard the voice of the centinel, and the warlike flourish of the trumpet, warning the peaceful labourers in the fields that |