reserves specially for Nouveaux Mariés, and at the landing-place we found chairs kindly provided for us by Mon. G., our own not having yet arrived.

We were borne along at a swinging pace, and amidst much chattering and hilarity among the coolies, to our own door, where, no sooner had we alighted, than we were received by a perfect volley of crackers from the assembled multitude, which was followed by many others for nearly an hour.

Guns don't seem to be used by the celestials on festive occasions, but they certainly have brought their crackers to great perfection, as nothing could have been more satisfactorily deafening, than the noise they made.

At the entrance there was an archway in evergreens, surmounted by the usual, but ever-pleasant word "Welcome;" and the staircase and passage up to our rooms was beautifully decorated with evergreens, flags, and flowers.

Such a cheerful reception to this far-distant home was most enlivening as well as gratifying, shewing, as it does, the kindly feeling that exists towards H. not only among his European neighbours, but also in his Chinese pupils, who materially aided and abetted in these unlooked-for rejoicings. I am told that had I been a Chinese

bride, I should have had a gaily-decorated scarlet chair, and had gongs (not trumpets!) sounded

before me!

LETTER IX.

IMPERIAL ARSENAL, FOO-CHOW, 29th April.

ONE annoyance I have discovered in this new home is, that there is no regular mail in communication with the P. and O. I shall therefore send a letter by every opportunity to HongKong; so, if some of them appear to be longer en route than others, the above is the explanation of their being so. There is soon, however, to be a French mail twice-a-month from Hong-Kong and the same from England, which, with the mails now existing, will enable us to have weekly communication.

You can believe how delighted I was, when a neighbour came in yesterday to call my attention to the red flag which floated from the top of the Dock, denoting thereby that the steamer bearing my first letters from home was in sight, and that I should have them in a few hours. Nor was I disappointed. Ere long they appeared; and how eagerly their contents were devoured, I leave you to imagine.

You wish to hear about so many things, I hardly know where to begin, but will do so by describing the situation and general appearance of our house. The latter is easily done, it being a very practical-looking square mansion, which seems to be the usual style of architecture in this part of the world. It stands within a gateway guarded on each side by mythological monsters, and in the centre of a small garden surrounded by magnificently tall bamboos.

The part allotted to us by the Arsenal authorities consists of a good-sized dining-room downstairs, and upstairs the drawing-room, which, with its verandah, is a pretty cheerful-looking room. These, and a large bed-room and dressing-room, form our "Chateau en Chine:" by which you will see that our domain is not a very extensive one, nor does it allow us much scope for hospitality.

It, as well as several other houses, and all the immense workshops belonging to the Arsenal, is built on a flat piece of ground, reclaimed from a marshy paddy-field.

Higher up, on the side of the hill which rises immediately behind us, are the houses of the French Directors, from which there is a charming view of the river and harbour. Higher still, is a

Buddhist temple, or called more commonly "Joss House," erected as a refuge for the spirits of the dead, which were supposed to have been offended by their bodies being removed when the ground was being prepared for the Arsenal.

A' propos of this, a curious story has just been told me.

It happened at that time, that one of the Chinese soldiers fell into an extraordinary kind of state, foaming at the mouth, howling, drinking buckets of water, and going on with all kinds of absurdities. Ultimately he demanded to be taken to the Yamûn, which he insisted on entering by the great gateway, not being contented to do so by the ordinary small one. When there, he informed the Imperial Commissioner that he had had a dream, in which it was revealed to him that the spirits of those whose bodies had been thus disturbed were most indignant, and would continue fluttering over the Arsenal until there had been a feast lasting four days. Accordingly the Yamûn was used as a "Joss House" for the occasion, no temple having as yet been built; and for four days chow-chow" and all kinds of offerings were collected together, after which, it was supposed, the wrath of the angry spirits was appeased, and that they would be satisfied to

retire quietly to the temple which was in course

of building.

N.B.-By "chow chow" is meant in " Pidgin English," food of all kinds, and it takes a very important part in the religious ceremonies of the Chinese, who by no means consider that either their deities or deceased relatives are independent of material support.

Yamûn is the residence and offices of the head government official of the district.

Having given you these explanations, I must go on to tell you of our visit to the temple alluded to, and of the polite reception we met with from the priests, who requested us to sit down and offered us tea,-made of course à la Chinois, by pouring boiling water on the leaves, covering it up for a few minutes, and then drinking it without milk or sugar. I do not think I shall ever become a convert to this mode of using the national beverage.

The priests are most amiable-looking men, and evidently wished to make themselves agreeable, though our only mode of communication was by energetic "chin-chinning," in which, much to their amusement, the intelligent "Scuttle" did not fail to join by sitting up in front of them and perseveringly wagging her forepaws. The process of "chin