the river Fal; and was transported to the other side. I admired the richness and loveliness of the view from the centre of this river, whose course was winding, and of a noble width. The land rises from its margents in steep ascents, which are covered with wood, consisting principally of stunted oak; and the silence of the vicinal country, added to the pleasure of the The oak abounded for miles in this locality-growing out of the tops of the fences, with furze and hazel-and affording a pleasing relief to the narrow lanes, which are hedged with banks of earth, faced on either side with stone and spar.

scene.

Filley has a church, with a tower; but I observed no good houses here. At the western entrance, I perceived a Wesleyan chapel, built in 1838. The country was hilly, but void of beauty and interest, and the roads were soft and dirty.

I witnessed a great deal of primitive simplicity, in the part between Falmouth and Filley; which I suppose to be as retired

and unfrequented, as any equally extensive space in England. The land lying between wide and unfordable waters, materially secludes these parts from the commerce of life, and renders the visit of a stranger a rare occurrence. I did not meet or see one horseman or vehicle, all the way from Falmouth, until I reached the road from St. Mawes to Tregony, upon which I entered when within two miles of the latter place; the total distance being about fourteen miles. About this spot, at a distance of two or three miles from Tregony, is Ruan Lanihorne; which is a small village. The Rev. John Whittaker, an ecclesiastical author of local celebrity, resided here many years; a man so admired and beloved, that in some lines, which appeared in a public journal, after his decease, written by one Fortescue Hitchins, the poet concludes

"Go where we list, prophetic is the strain,

We ne'er shall look upon thy like again !"

I noticed here what is common in Cornwall, namely, that instead of stiles, they

frequently, have gaps in their walls or banks, for foot passengers to enter the fields and their mode of passage is, by ex

:

cavating the ground, and laying long stones, turned on their edges, with wide interstitial spaces: on which men can safely tread, but over which cattle do not venture.

There are also numerous springs of limpid water, which is collected here and there, into small cisterns of stone, under the road-side fences; and to these you see the women and children resorting, with pitchers, whose shape and make are perhaps peculiar to this county and to Devon.

The rurality of the scene, the decent appearance of the peasants, and their simplicity and frankness, recalled some of those early impressions which my mind had received, when in childhood I had read of the primitive simplicity of patriarchal manners, in the pastoral scenes of the promised land.

CHAPTER V.

"But the kind hosts their entertainments grace,
With hearty welcome, and an open face;
In all they did, you might discern with ease,
A willing mind, and a desire to please."

DRYDEN.

WHEN within one mile from Tregony, I looked from a hill, and beheld the remains of this ancient borough, which begins at a valley, and runs up a rise, half a mile in length, from the south to the north; the church, with its tower, being at the top of the hill.

The country beyond, to the north and west, is visible for miles. Whilst meditating on this scene, which was to me one of peculiar interest, I saw a splendid rainbow over the town. The radiant, colorifick

arch of Jehovah painted the vault of heaven; and, based on fathomless profundity, spanning visible creation, from east to west, threw its immeasurable grasp over the wide face of nature.

I descended a hill, to enter Tregony from St. Mawes' road. Here is a stream of sufficient magnitude to turn a flour-mill, which pays the tribute of its waters to the river Fal; across it is built a bridge; passing over which, you enter the town, and ascend a steep hill: the whole place lying on a continued rise. Tregony is half a mile long;. but it is a mere village in appearance, though it contains some good houses, and very respectable inhabitants.

There are two or three inns, of which that called the Town Arms appeared the most considerable. Tregony is an ancient borough, and was in days of old a fortified place; there having been here a castle, the seat of the Pomroys, at the lower end of the town, some vestiges of which may yet be traced. There were also a