86 CHAPTER IV. Cymocles heard and saw, He loudly called to such as were aboard, And him to ferry over that deep ford. FAIRY QUEEN, B. II. I AROSE at six, and having written a long letter to my spouse, and put the same into the post office, I entered the coffee room, where I breakfasted, and had pilchards, in all their glory, fresh from the Falmouth market; and very delicious eating they were. Having made a hearty meal, as all good christians do, I prepared for my first route. I will, however, as it comes in proper order, here make a few remarks on FALMOUTH. The harbour is very capacious, and has room for an immense fleet to lie at anchor. The entrance to it is beautiful. On the west side is a majestic peninsular rock, on which stands the picturesque castle and strong fortification of Pendennis; and on the east, a mile or two across, is the castle of St. Mawes. I have made mention of Pendennis and St. Mawes, in a subsequent chapter, and shall here content myself with a few observations on the town and harbour. The harbour presents a busy scene, by reason of the government packets coming to this port; and the town is made busy also by the mails going frequently thence to London. There having been a rumour that the mails were to be removed to Southampton, on account of the railway at that place; the Cornish people propose to make a railway from Falmouth to Exeter, to join the Great Western. This measure will probably be carried into effect; and will, to a moral certainty, secure or regain the packets. The harbour is beautiful, running inland for miles, far beyond Penryn; of which hereafter. Falmouth lies on the west of the harbour; and is a busy place, with very narrow streets, and bad foot-paths. The streets are, however, wholly or almost entirely paved; and the new houses, which are built at the northern outskirt, on the road to Penryn, are pretty enough,-stand high, and command a view, mostly of the harbour, and beautiful adjacent scenery. The number of inhabitants must be about 7,000, amongst whom are many respectable families. The respected name of Fox, of the Society of Friends, has been well known, for many years past, in connexion with this ancient town. I noticed nothing remarkable in the church. Here is a synagogue for the Judaic sect, a chapel for papists, and places of worship for members of the Society of Friends, and persons of other persuasions. Here is a good pier and quay; and the Custom House and other public buildings are sightly. I am happy in stating that they have here a polytechnic institution, and good reading room,and there seems to be much intelligence abroad, and great good-will and neighbourly feeling. Ut valeant atque crescant ! I now proceeded, viâ Filley, to the ancient borough of TREGONY. The first six or eight miles of this route are romantic. I first crossed the Falmouth harbour, and proceeded through Flushing: the next place was Mylor. Here I passed over a bridge which crossed a small stream, which runs into the harbour, and passed on to Strongate. The road and hedges, for about two miles beyond Mylor, were made principally of a pretty spar; I now reached RESTRONGUET CREEK, where an elderly worthy resides, and takes over, at his own pleasure, (and not at their bidding) such persons as are solicitous to be ferried. He happened to be at the farther side, when I arrived at the Creek, and he kept himself snugly sheltered, during some smart showers, which lasted half an hour. In vain I halloo'd, and made divers gesticulations, significative of my desire; for he took his own time: at last he leisurely rowed across, and ferried me. In Mylor, or an adjacent parish, there is a very humble church, whose roof lies almost beneath you, as you enter the church yard. This arises from the lowness of the site of the church, the small elevation of the edifice, and the altitude of the approach. I remember to have witnessed the same thing, in circumambulating the church yard at Hythe, in Kent. The country, hitherto, had been hill and dale, with a good road, though very little frequented; abounding in beautiful scenery, which combined pretty home views, with the grandeur of distant prospects. I now approached the ferry at |