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Emerging from this lovely scene, I arrived
This is a neat, lively town; its extent has been encreased of late years, by the prosperity of a great vicinal mine; and it is likely to be yet further promoted by the little river, which is navigable, and runs up to it from the bay. The place is named after Bishop Blaze, the patron of wool-combers, who landed there: and his effigy is in the church, a pretty building, which is dedicated to him. The festival of the great Blaze is commemorated annually at this town, on the same day on which the wool-combers observe it throughout the kingdom.
Pursuing a north-easterly course, for four or five miles, during which I observed numerous plantations of Scotch-fir, larch, and spruce,) I entered
LOSTWITHIEL. This place is twenty-eight miles from
Tor Point, and is in the direct road from Plymouth to Falmouth; it is a corporate town, and has a mayor, aldermen, and burgesses: the county quarter sessions are held here. The church, which has three aisles, is a handsome edifice, adorned with a sightly spire, the only one I remember to have seen in Cornwall; it contains a curiously sculptured font. The town is pretty, and the streets are wide: it lies in a valley; and its eastern side is washed by the river Fowey, which I crossed, by passing over a bridge, as I quitted the town. I now pursued my route to Liskeard; the few first miles of which were void of interest; but the latter part was beautiful. When within three or four miles of the town, I passed through a lovely valley, at the end of which, near a toll-house, are the Looe Mills, a beautiful scene; then passing a pretty place, called Moor Water, I ascended a long winding hill, to enter Liskeard.
On the south, I looked over the rich val
ley, through part of which the previous road lay, and saw the river Looe winding along the bottom, in quiescent loveliness; adorned on either side, by rich woodlands, rising in long sweeps, from the peaceful river's banks. On an eminence, in an open and commanding spot, at the south-west of the town, stands a large, handsome building; which is the Union Workhouse.
is 16 miles from Plymouth, 223 from London, and 18 miles from Launceston. The west-end of the town stands on a hill; the principal street is very wide, and contains many handsomely built and respectable habitations ; but the east-end of the town is in a hollow, and there the streets are narrow. There are a good town-hall and market place, a large hotel, and several excellent inns. The Church is a spacious edifice, with a low embattled tower, at the south-eastern outlet of the town; the church-yard is ornamented with
some fine trees. The town, which is very ancient, was chartered by Queen Elizabeth; having a mayor, recorder, burgesses and assistants : the inhabitants number three thousand.
In the early part of the unhappy conflict between Charles I. and the Parliament, a battle was fought on Bradocdown, near Liskeard; in which the the King's forces, consisting of Cornish-men, commanded by Sir Ralph Hopton, defeated the parliamentary troops, led on by Ruthven, a Scotchman, governor of Plymouth; many of the latter being slain, and 1200 being made prisoners. This perhaps occurred on a down near Broad-oak, a place between Lostwithiel and Liskeard; for Broad-oak being in Saxon, Brad Ac, makes it rational to conclude that Brad-oc down was a down near Broadoak.
ROAD TO LAUNCESTON. On leaving Liskeard, I found the country cultivated and enclosed, for a few miles, by banks and quick hegdes: the face of the country consisting of hill and dale. After walking six miles, I entered on an extensive down, with a great Tor (high hill) on the north: and, having walked two or three miles over this wild, I entered on an enclosed country, consisting of hill and dale. The road, from Liskeard to Launceston, being a cross road, and lonely, I had to thank my stars on this occasion; for the moon was much obscured, and had it not been for the magnitudinous luminaries composing Ursus Major, I should not probably have reached Launceston that night. Mrs. Boswell was vexed with her husband, (the admired biographer of our great Lexicographer,) for spending so much time with Dr. Johnson; whose manners she thought uncouth: declaring she had heard of bears being led by men, but had never before known a man to be led by a great bear. I thought of this insult on the character of that great Luminary, as I found the Great Bear to be my only guide.