THE CATHEDRAL, GUATEMALA.

rooms are large and commodious, but, as a general thing, plainly furnished and without any attempt at extensive decoration; matting is spread loosely over the tiled floors in lieu of carpets, which are seldom seen.

The Plaza, which forms an important part of every Spanish town, is a paved square of about four hundred feet on each side with a curiously cut stone fountain in the center and a colonnade on three sides; on these three sides, stand the palace, cabildo, and other public buildings, and the fourth is occupied by the cathedral, an imposing edifice solidly constructed and beautifully finished in the interior, but not so richly decorated as many of the European churches.

The "Paseo" is a pretty little park with a fountain and large basin in the center, wellkept walks running through and around it, and seats ranged along these walks. Twice a week the government band plays there in the afternoon; the ladies generally appear in considerable numbers on these occasions, and the scene is quite a gay one.

The Plaza de Toros" is a large amphitheater, which

stands at the end of the "Calle Real," and has a capacity for seating about six thousand people; it is devoted entirely to the exhibition of bull-fights, which, however, are not very exciting in Guatemala, as the killing of the bulls is prohibited by law.

The capital was moved to its present site in the year 1776. Previous to that time the old capital, situated about thirty miles distant, between the volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, had been repeatedly destroyed by earthquakes, so that it was finally abandoned by its inhabitants.

The climate of Guatemala is simply delightful. The tem

perature ranges in the winter from 63 to 75° Fahrenheit, and in summer from 700 to 80°. The rainy season begins in March or April, and continues more or less through the spring and summer to about the middle of November; most of the rain falls between three in the afternoon and midnight, the mornings being generally bright and pleasant throughout the year. Between November and March the rain ceases almost entirely; during this period bright sunny days and cool, pleasant nights follow each other in regular succession, giving to Guatemala the very perfection of a winter climate.

NATIONAL THEATER, GUATEMALA.

From the time of its acquisition by Spain to the beginning of the present century, Guatemala had continued in a state of peace, the natives submitting quietly to the rule of the Spanish authorities and the divine right of the Romish Church being the supreme power in the land. Out of the declaration of independence of 1823, however, grew the Republic of the United States of Central America, which comprised Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica. This confederacy was soon broken up; internal dissensions arose, suspicion and jealousy of one another

years; but even now the elections are a farce. The present government, in which the president and leading ministers are all natives, and actually Mestizos, is strongly opposed to the old Spanish or church party. They have broken up the convents and monasteries, and turned nearly all the Jesuits out of the country.

General Barrios, the president, is a man about forty years of age and a native of Guatemala. Like every other man occupying a high official position in these countries, he seems to be secretly feared and hated in some quarters while he en

manifested themselves in the different states, party spirit waxed strong and bitter, and revolution and bloodshed followed. The whole country was now thrown into a state of strife and anarchy, and many outrages were committed. From that time to this the so-called republic of Guatemala has never been in a really settled state; the governing party has always come into power by means of revolution, and, even during the periods of temporary peace, there has been a constant feeling of insecurity and dread of fresh outbreaks among the people. The state of things has improved slightly during the past few

joys a fair share of popularity with his own party.

The ministers of war and foreign relations, who have virtually as much power as the president, and in some matters more, are men of liberal education and considerable ability. These men have become rich during the few years they have been in power, but at the same time they have gained favor with many by their progressive ideas and their apparent desire to advance the interests of the people. While one condemns in the strongest terms many of the actions of the government, and deplores generally the state of things

existing under their administration, one must not forget to give them credit for services actually rendered to the country. They have opened telegraphic communication with the neighboring republics, bettered the condition of the main roads through the state, raised the standard of the public schools, and made large appropriations for city improvements. But, in spite of all this progress, there is still always apparent a feeling of fear and insecurity among the people; the merchants, particularly, constantly dread the possible breaking out of a fresh revolution, and the consequent confiscation of their property.

Guatemala is the largest and most powerful of the Central American states, as well as the most advanced in general improvements. The present government is ambitious of more power, and seems to be quietly watching for some plausible excuse for declaring war against the neighboring republic of San Salvador, with a view of obtaining control of that state. The peace and tranquillity of to-day cannot probably last very long, and may be disturbed at any time by a revolution. The political outlook is certainly not very encouraging, and it does not seem probable now that the country will ever become thoroughly settled or prosperous until it falls into the hands of the Anglo-Saxon race. There seems to be no likelihood of this at present, which is the more to be deplored because the country in itself is one of the richest and most pro

ductive in the world, and capable of great development.

Some of the old Spanish families in Guatemala, although greatly fallen from their high estate since the church party went out of power, are most charming and cultivated people, and we were indebted to them for many civilities. The general character of the people, however, is far from elevated: they are suspicious, revengeful, indolent and fond of power, and, with but few excep tions, unable to grasp intelligently, and take a liberal view of any broad questions which do not seem at the first glance to affect their individual interests-characteristics in themselves inimical to permanent peace and prosperity.

Having spent about a fortnight in the capital, business called me to the "Costa Granda,"-one of the great coffee-growing districts,-about sixty leagues distant. I purchased for this trip a "sombrero" with a very wide brim, a pair of riding-boots with high tops, and a long India rubber coat. My good friend, Don Manuel Benito. one of the leading Spanish merchants of Guatemala, loaned me a comfortable saddle and a pair of formidable spurs, and assisted me in engaging my mules and "arriero." I had three mules,-one for my own use. one for the servant, and a third for my bag gage. My only companion was the half Indian Rosendo, who, under the compre hensive name of "arriero," filled the duties of guide, muleteer, and general body-servant.

We turned into the Calle Real and rode up past the Paseo and the church of El Calvario, and around the great "pila" at the head of the street, out toward the gates of the city. These pilas are to be met with in almost every town of Central America, and consist of large, circular stone basins, with a stone fountain in the center, which keeps up a constant supply of water. Women carry thither great earthenware jugs, which they fill with water and place carefully upon their heads, returning to their houses with them in this position; sometimes, preferring to do their washing in the open air, they bring their bundles of linen to the fountain, and, using the edge of the stone basin as a washboard, they rub away contentedly, quite indifferent to the fact that they are gradually reducing the unfortunate garments to a state of stringy pulp. The pilas are also used as public troughs for watering horses and cattle.

As we passed out of the gates the sun was just rising, casting his slanting rays far out upon the plain and lighting up the eastern slopes of the great volcanoes. About noon the wind rose and commenced howling among the mountains, sending terrible clouds of dust before it, which not only cut off all chance of any enjoyment of the scenery, but really almost blinded and suffocated us. After nearly four hours of wind and dust over a rough road, and constantly climbing and descending mountains, we finally came into view of La Antigua, delightfully situated in a rich valley entirely shut in by mountains, the

ranked among the most unfortunate cities in the world. It was founded in 1542, and during the two and a quarter centuries between that year and the date of the removal of the city to its present site it was thrice destroyed by earthquakes and many times visited by terrible epidemics and pestilences which swept away in a few weeks large numbers of the inhabitants.

On every side are evidences of the former wealth and beauty of the capital, and the ruins of churches, public buildings, and palatial residences, many of them now partially overgrown with grass and trees, are exceedingly interesting, bringing home to one, as

grand volcanoes of Agua and Fuego towering up to an elevation of over 14,000 feet on either side of the city. Antigua was the former capital of Guatemala, and, although at one time rich and beautiful, may be

it were, a realization of the terrible disasters which have so frequently visited this lovely spot. The ruins of the immense cathedral, the walls of which are still standing, and of the once beautiful church of Santo Do

mingo, are particularly striking. The country in the immediate vicinity of Antigua was at one time largely devoted to the cultivation of cochineal, and there are still several flourishing plantations. It has now, however, ceased to be an important article of export, owing to its great depreciation in value in all the markets of the world, other and cheaper dyes being substituted, and many plantations in different parts of the state have been destroyed in order to turn the soil to better account in the production of sugar and coffee. The cochineal is a small insect, and is cultivated on a species of cactus-plant. The plants are set out in rows in the field, and are generally from three to five feet in height. The young of these insects, as soon as they begin to have life, are placed in great numbers on every leaf of the plants; they soon fasten upon the leaf and feed, never moving until they are carefully brushed off and dried at the proper season; they are then packed in hide seroons or bags and shipped. A few of the insects are saved every year for seed. The crop was formerly very valuable. It has to be carefully collected before the end of the dry season: as there is always the risk of its being destroyed by an early rain. After a good night's rest at Antigua, we renewed our journey at sunrise the next morning. Our road led us through a mountainous country during the afternoon, and we crossed many rivers of pure, sparkling water and passed through several small Indian villages, reaching Patzun at five o'clock. Here we passed the night, leaving the village well behind us by six o'clock the next morning. We breakfasted at

Godines and soon after leaving that village came out upon the lofty table-land bordering the lake of Atitlan. The scene which now opened to our view was magnificent in the extreme, and one which, as far as my feeble pen is concerned, certainly beggars description. For four hours we descended along the borders of this beautiful lake, the everchanging combinations of lake and mountains, and light and shadow, constantly presenting new views, each one of which seemed to surpass the others in grandeur and magnificence. On reaching the plain we passed through the village of San Andres, by a road delightfully shaded by large trees, many of which were covered with beautiful flowers. After a long ascent, during which the lake was hidden from our view, we came out upon it again and passed for a short distance along its shore before entering upon the very steep zigzag path leading up toward Solola. The road was very bad in places, and the ascent very severe upon our jaded beasts. The afternoon was now getting advanced, and the shadows cast by the mountains and volcanoes heightened the effect of the magnificent scenery through which we were passing; a cataract was rushing down the side of the mountain within a short distance of our path, and now plunging over the rocks, and again gurgling and muttering beneath them, kept up a continual roar as we slowly ascended.

The road from Solola, where we passed the night, to Quezaltenango, by the way of Naguala, leads up and down long "cuestas," through a wild but picturesque country. Sometimes from a high barren bluff or exposed mountain summit, where the sharp