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Illness Comes Upon Us

Pursued by the blue devils of homesick- plodded solemnly in his wake, wondering ness and doubt about the ultimate value how so rickety a carcass could keep going of our work, feeling the inevitable bore when I was aching to lie down. The dom that comes with long journeys on cold was intense and in spite of my the north desert, we struggled on each weariness I dared not climb aboard a afternoon and night till the little bundle, camel as Jayne had done. the guide on top of the second camel, At one in the morning we floundered came to life, unrolled himself, and slid up to a tiny garrison fort, merely four down the neck of his beast, to trot ahead enormously thick walls enclosing a little and look for a camp site.

quadrangle some ten yards square. Here It was somewhere here that we gave up was no more sign of life than we had seen the proud habit of pyjamas to which on the open desert during the last thirteen we had clung, and slipped into our bed hours and there was no telling how many rolls, merely stripping our boots and centuries the place had lain deserted. loosening our belts. Fatigue and the Under the starlight we could see prospect cruel wind made undressing hateful. neither of camel fodder nor of fuel, but

For the most part the sky in daylight for water we need not lack among those was overcast and the wind howled dis- snowy acres. A halt was decided on mally, though the nights were clear when the caravan struggled up, and we enough. Twice, however, we woke to set about pitching tents, congratulating Christmas-card landscapes. The mist ourselves that we still had a full halfhad frozen on every twig of the copse deck-load of wood from the last camp. where we camped, and the still sun But poor Jayne shid from his kneeling glistened on every frosted particle. Near camel and fell flat. He could not walk a by lay the flats of the Black River, ice- step. I stretched him on the snow with bound except for an inky gap where the his back to a blaze and took off his fur water raced through a narrow gut be- boots to find both feet frozen stiff. For tween brilliant white mounds of snow. three hours and a half Wang and I

scrubbed with snow till the feeling came LOST IN BITTER WEATHER

back with a vengeance and he quietly UCH a morning was Thanksgiving fainted. Still we scrubbed feverishly,

day, and we set out looking for- hardening our hearts and occasionally ward to a short fifteen-mile stage and giving him a drink of the raw Chinese camp at San Lungtze Sha Wa, where kaoliang spirit, which was luckily brought we had spent the night twenty-four days to burn in the little emergency cooking before. There might be time even for lamp. The last half-hour of rubbing was some sort of feeble celebration if the done with grease, in the hope that some of bottle of wine had not frozen and fuel was the skin might be saved and the subseeasy to come by. But when the moon- quent swelling less painful. We put his less night fell, and the wind got up, first soles against the bare skin inside our to tease and then to attack us, we lost the shirts to give them natural heat and then way. It was no comfort now to see the at last bundled him in his bed bags in the guide dismount and make his way to the tent with a sleeping dose and turned in front, for I knew that he was not looking to wait for morning. All this time he had for a camp site-he was merely trying his uttered no word of complaint, mustering best to get us back toward the trail. up a feeble grin when I asked him the Even then, at ten o'clock at night, we banal question of how he felt. could have turned to the right and eventu- For my own part, I spent the night in ally found the river and probably fuel. revolving the situation over and over. But old Louse Trap, the guide, would With no camel thorn near, fuel fast dishave none of it: the camel fodder was not appearing, and Jayne quite unable to to be found everywhere, he said, and he stand or to ride, we could not stop here, thought he knew where we were. I nor could he endure the torture of being


lashed to a rocking camel. It was plain brought me to the tent flap and I saw that I must get a cart out on the desert, two mountainous camels piled high with where no cart had come before.

brushwood and fodder, deliberately At sunrise I dispatched two camels to breaking their joints to kneel by their the westward with orders to find the river companions. That put a different face bed and bring back fuel, while Wang was on the matter, and we settled ourselves to sent with the guide to conjure up a cart wait another day at least for Wang and from the oasis, which should not be more the guide with the cart. I dared not than a two days' journey. Luckily the think that they would fail us. chief camel driver had brought his little It was half past four in the morning of mule, which Wang and the guide could the third night when something waked ride alternately and on which they could me (Jayne was having little enough sleep fasten their bed rolls and slender supplies. those nights!) and I tumbled out to find

Outside the tent a half-gale howled a shivering Wang unharnessing two mites around us driving the dry snow in drifts of ponies from a half-shed, half-tepee against the scarred gray walls of the under the starlight. This shaped itself deserted fort. Not even a bush stuck up into an improvised bonnet on a tip-cart. from the featureless white acres of that He and the guide were more nearly explain. Jayne pretended to doze, and hausted than I had ever seen them. With perhaps the sleeping draught had really them was a strange carter, the owner of some effect, though I suspected him of the outfit. He had come most reluc“playing possum.” As there was little tantly and had wished to cling by the left of our bandage roll l boiled four river for safety. handkerchiefs and rigged them clumsily In the morning, when we reviewed the about his feet to keep the dressing in situation, there seemed to be nothing for place. Probably neither of us remember it but to start. There was no mule feed much of the day and the night which either at camp or at the Mongol border, followed, though a few pictures stand which we now knew to be only forty li etched in black against the snow fields ahead. By two in the afternoon we were of that Thanksgiving night.

packed up and camp was struck. Never

was I more glad to leave a place than I TWO VISITS FROM THE MONGOLS

was when we pulled out from under those AROONED as we were, it brought high brick walls of the ancient fort. So


to hear a shout outside the tent and stag- not been able to make our camp inside the ger out into the wind to find that we had enclosure, but had chosen the southeast visitors, two Chinese and three Mongols, corner as a better lee. come in from the north on splendid Wang's contrivance of the cart was shaggy camels. They stayed only for masterful. It was an open tip-cart with tea and a chance to part the tent flap and wooden wheels not round, nor truly oval, stare curiously at Jayne where he lay nor yet perfect polygons but, to the eye, in his bed bag. Later came two Mongols a mixture of all three. To ride in it must riding camels and driving seven tiny have been like taking the air on the donkeys, badly exhausted from treading Inquisitor's rack. But over it Wang had so many miles with delicate feet in the contrived a mat shelter reënforced with deep snow. In the mid-afternoon we felts. Below, on top of a layer of straw, made foreign tea and melted the Thanks- were more felts, and on them we laid giving day claret, which luckily had not Jayne stretched in his bed bag. I walked broken its bottle. This cheered us up behind with what few medical comforts considerably, though I was getting anx- we had, a little phial of precious beefious about fuel, which was now down juice concentration and the opiate pills. to a pile of twigs that must be saved for Behind me came Wang on the fastest cook-fires only. However, another shout camel, led by our most faithful digger.


Two Friendly Chinese Assist Us

The rest of the caravan had orders to over and that we had misjudged Chinese follow as it could.

hospitality from the first. We little Just before sunset, two days later, knew what was ahead of us, or how rarely Wang went ahead at a round pace to strangers can hope to meet with genuine Maomu town to acquaint the magistrate kindness. of our plight and arrange for quarters. It was late in the morning of the third We found him as hospitable as ever and day when we laid Jayne on his straw bed, much disturbed at Jayne's condition. under a magnificent erection of mats and The room where we had stayed before was felts, with a camel's hair curtain in front to put at our disposal and garnished to keep out the wind. Our host thoughtfully receive us. But we realized how Spartan waited till all was stowed and then came the old gentleman's life was when, for all for a formal farewell at the yamen gate. the willing service at our disposal, it We found that we had two carters intook an hour and a half to get hot water, stead of one and that the magistrate had and the chill of the dark room struck also sent the single yamen policeman on a into our bones. Supper was served by donkey to secure rooms for us at farmthe side of Jayne's k'ang-a dish of pork houses ahead. with cabbage and rice on the side, all that


With perfect tact the magistrate did 'HE odd little policeman had ridden not eat with us, but came in afterward to ahead on his donkey and arranged for inquire for our comfort. We had much a big room in a farm house at the oasis of discussion about the road to Suchow now Hsuang Shu Tze. The family were all that the river was up and fords doubtful. agog at our coming and we left next Our makeshift cart, too, must be changed morning amid the smiles of a full score for a better one with stronger animals. of the laborers gathered at the gate to see Our old friend called in farmers who were the interesting invalid hoisted on his known to have carts and interviewed felts to the straw bed in the cart. It them in our presence, leaving Wang to was a short day-about ten miles in make the final arrangements next day. three hours—and the track led along He was most urgent that we should stay blazing snow fields still by the bank of till Jayne could walk. But I felt sure the frozen river. that would be weeks, and I longed to get Early in the afternoon we arrived at him under a doctor's care. Suchow, the destined farm and paid off our four five marches or more down river, had no diggers, for here the river crossing for foreigner and no doctor, but if we could Suchow must be made and we had decided strike a diagonal to meet the post road we to keep on as fast as possible toward Dr. could reach Kanchow, I believed in eight Kou and his Kanchow mission. The marches, and there would find Dr. Kou, Maomu policeman was also paid off and the pleasant Chinese who had been trained allowed to turn his little donkey's head by English missionaries in central China. to the north again, returning with a

Our host talked long about the wonders letter of thanks to the magistrate, under of modern science and was pleased to whom he would resume his task of keeping look through Stein's “Ruins of Desert the peace among the twenty families who Cathay," in which he recognized some inhabit that little frontier village and the of his acquaintances among the officials forty more farms outside the walls. whom the author had photographed. . Noon of the eighteenth day from that He also knew of his coming through unlucky Thanksgiving brought us to Maomu, though it was in the time of Kanchow, where we found the kindly Dr. his predecessor. Nothing could have Kou, who looked serious over the feet, been more kind than the anxiety of but he cleansed them skillfully and asour good old friend for our welfare. He sured us that there was small danger of made us feel that the worst was really blood poisoning now.






YOUNG Virginian and a red- of Johns Hopkins University denounced

haired bell-hop were drinking the Volstead Act, and at the conference together when I happened of governors on enforcement the Govupon them in a low cabaret ernor of Maryland defied the President.”

in Baltimore, and it was in- While in Baltimore, I was shown an teresting to note the equality which pro- article by Mark Sullivan, who is said by hibition had established. If the Vir

If the Vir- Baltimoreans to understand the situation ginian represented the old aristocracy as few outsiders do. In that article of the South, the bell-hop, enriched by Mr. Sullivan observes: bootlegging, represented a new aristocracy whose pretensions will be observed

Opposition to the Volstead Act has a status

in Maryland that it has in no other state. a few years hence, the country over.

One of the reasons perhaps is that there is in It is true that the Virginian had Maryland a kind of distilling aristocracy, a engaged the bell-hop to show him Balti- number of families of wealth and position in more after dark—a rather doubtful com- the distilling business for years. Another pliment, considering how Baltimore be- reason is that, in the days before prohibition, haves after dark-but the bell-hop saved social entertainment in Maryland was his dignity by assuming the rôle less of companied by features not consistent with the a guide than of a host. Presently he had

existence of prohibition, and there is a kind a a crowd at table, and was tossing out

of local pride about it which now feels outfive-dollar bills with a free hand.

raged. "Baltimore," Mr. Crabbe, of the Anti- This local pride found expression not Saloon League, explained next day, "has long ago in a speech before a House combeen the garbage can for the entire South. mittee at Washington by Chief Justice As state after state went dry, the worst Klecka of the People's Court, Baltimore, liquor men came here. Ours was the last who said: “I have spent, I believe, about Southern state to adopt prohibition, and a quarter of a million dollars in the last to-day we have a wet governor, who ap- eight years and in doing so I went to many points Baltimore's police commissioner; a place. I spent, I guess, in Washington we have no state enforcement law; we alone, $70,000 on good times in one year have a wet press and a public hostile to on Senators, Congressmen, and Ambasthe Volstead Act."

sadors." When the chairman inter

rupted with: “You are what they call a “WHISKY SYMPATHY IN MARYLAND

royal good fellow," he said: "I was and NOTHER prohibitionist, William am still; yes. Sometimes called the

Purnell Hall, said: “Maryland and biggest sport in Baltimore city.” Kentucky were the greatest distilling A distinguished Baltimorean, Captain states, and the Baltimore banks invested W. H. Stayton, U. S. N., retired, is presiheavily in the distilling industry. The dent of the Baltimore Steamship Comeffect on public sentiment was only what pany and founder and vice-president of might have been expected. Then, to make the Association Against the Prohibition matters worse, the President and the Dean Amendment. Interested more in the


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“Thousands of Arrests” in Philadelphia

national than in the local aspects of pro- Bootleggers continue to transport unadulhibition, he delights to name the impor- terated intoxicants into Philadelphia, and from tant employers of labor who have joined this city illegal beverages are distributed to his organization.

many states. “There is an impression all over the

The price of intoxicating beer in Philadelcountry," he says, “that most large em

phia is ten cents a glass in most saloons, fifteen

cents in a few of the so-called higher class ployers of labor are in favor of the present

barrooms. Unadulterated Scotch whisky is state of affairs, and there is a current sold by the quart in Philadelphia to-day for belief that many of them believe that eight dollars; by the glass, seventy-five cents. they can exploit a man more-or that a man who never takes a drink will do According to Mr. Charles S. Wood, of more work than

man who does. That the Association Against the Prohibition is not a fair view of many large employers Amendment, “Philadelphians pay seven of labor."

dollars a gallon for grain alcohol, which Of his own attitude toward prohibition, they use in making gin or in 'doctoring' Captain Stayton says: “I was a pro- non-alcoholic vermouth, and the whisky hibitionist before this law was passed.

now obtainable is so excellent that people I have never voted for anything but local have stopped having it analyzed.” Acoption in my life. I belong to that cording to a police reporter, moonshine branch of the temperance party which is is sold in the slums at fifty cents a pint, not radical, or which has not followed even at twenty-five cents a pint, and gin Anderson and people of that type. And

at two dollars a quart. I still stand for what I stood for in the “Liquor violations continue unabated, old days—local option always.”

with General Butler's men making thous

ands of arrests”—to quote a letter from BEER IN BALTIMORE

William J. Nicholson to Harlan Fiske

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NEAR the scene of Congressman John Stone, then Attorney General

Philip Hill's

Not in reply to Mr. Nicholson and the Association Against the Prohibition without referring explicitly to the VolAmendment displays a conspicuous big- stead Act, Mr. Stone has since declared, lettered sign, and there I was told that

in a public address: Baltimore had 2,000 saloons, with more

More and more we take over into the field beer than near-beer; 1,000 other places of positive law that sphere of human action disguised as cigar stores, candy stores,

which has been hitherto untrammeled by lunch rooms, or private homes; and in legal restrictions, without thought of the one section 50 saloons and “blind pigs” in extent to which a wise policy may leave some four blocks. Real beer costs fifteen cents phases of human activity to the control of a glass, thirty cents a stein, and thirty- moral sanctions or to the restraints of the five cents a bottle.

community sense of what is right conduct. In Philadelphia, where the ferocious We disregard the principle that there is a General Smedley D. Butler holds sway as

point beyond which the restraints of positive Director of Public Safety, I was given a

law cannot be carried without placing too file of the brochures issued by the Law

great a strain on the machinery and the

agencies of law enforcement. We build up Enforcement League. Here is what I

our administrative machinery with ever read:

increasing powers and authority in adminisBrewers now supply nearly two thousand

trative officers at the expense of individual saloons in Philadelphia with intoxicating beer, liberty and freedom of the citizen. which is illegally sold; in addition, several hundred places are operating under the guise

In certain respects local administraof respectability.

tive machinery has been greatly strengthThirty-nine of the eighty breweries are

ened during General Butler's reign. One supposed to be closed, forty-one breweries evening I walked through Chinatown, have a monopoly of the illict trade.

where his men were quelling a "tong

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