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result that, though a town of some size, it contains hardly an inn of a superior class; yet at such as the place affords one's reasonable wants are supplied at a moderate cost; and should your tastes be not too exclusive to sit opposite at table to some who don the plebeian blouse, intermingled with wearers of the conventional broadcloth, you may fare well enough 'en bourgeois,' as they say in France, and learn something to boot of the comparatively simple manners of French provincial middle-class life. It was amusing, for instance, considering the writer had travelled in an unpretending one-horse chaise for an equipage, and with no other company or attendance than his own, to overhear a bloused habitué of the table-d'hôte say in an undertone to a companion at no great distance from where he sat, making at the same time a slight inclination of the head in that direction, 'Voilà un milor!' It is perhaps worth noting, by the way, that at this frequented hostelry a form of tabled'hôte new to the writer's experience presented itself; for, though the company all entered as usual at the same hour-in this instance at noon-and though they dined simultaneously, yet each party of diners were served separately with whatever they might select from the day's bill of fare, instead of sharing in a single repast common to all. There

are, it may be added in conclusion, no better places of entertainment to be met with anywhere than these substantial but unpretentious provincial inns of France, which lay themselves out to satisfy, not the expensive vagaries of gold-lavishing tourists, but the more simple needs of the French bourgeois— be he prosperous burgher of a country town, or thrifty peasant farmer from the rural parts around.

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