ted, by those who believe the story, that he had a very fine constitution." mends itself to Europeans." So, apparently, thought | lived for fifteen days on such diet, it must be admitthe prince, who undertook a little stalking; but "the herds were wild and shy, and his royal highness had only one chance, and that a very poor one, before 10 o'clock A. M." They had been out since early dawn, and "the heat had become oppressive, but the prince stood the sun wonderfully well, and marched through the deep stuff as if he were used to it." In another hour they began to think of dinner, which was awaiting them at the fine huntinglodge, whither they rode. On the way the prince dismounted to get a shot at a paddy-bird, but only succeeded in frightening a couple of little girls who were guarding a herd of buffaloes. When the heat of the day was over, the prince went out again to try for a deer, and came back after two or three hours with a fine buck, which he had killed at two hundred yards. One of his suite also bagged a doe. And this was the net result of his royal highness's first day's experiences as a Nimrod in India. The deposed Gaekwar of Baroda was not without abilities of a certain sort, as the following will show: One day a merchant came to him with certain precious stones, which he offered for sale for ninety thousand pounds. His highness wanted the jewels, but he also wanted money; so he said, "I will take the jewels at your price, and if you will accommodate me with thirty thousand pounds in cash, I will give you an order on the treasury for the whole one hundred and twenty thousand pounds." This was agreed to. The merchant handed over the cash and the jewels, and got his order on the treasury. When the gaekwar was deposed, the jewels were missing. "The merchant," says Mr. Russell, "is now pressing the Baroda government for the payment of his little bill; but I fear he is not likely to get it." At Notwithstanding the apparent warmth of the reception of the prince by the rulers of Baroda, there were lurking suspicions of mischief. It was noticeable that the military were out in full arms; and, says the narrator, "passing through the quarter of the well-to-do citizens, we observed strong policestations and guards, as well as mounted men on guard at various places. It struck me that the schroffs of the beau quartier regarded the strangers with less friendly eyes than the poorer classes, who were, however, negative in their demeanor. Some of the fat, sleek people, sitting before their moneybags, were evidently scowling ;" and, at their departure," which was not so fine as the entry," although there were bands, illuminations, and escorts, "the platform of the station was in darkness, and Sir Madhava Rao was in apprehension lest advantage might be taken to do mischief to the prince or the young gackwar in the confusion." The prince had set his heart on having some grand tiger-hunting in Southern India; but tidings came that the cholera was there, and it was finally decided, after their return to Bombay, that they should sail around the peninsula to Calcutta, stopping at Goa, the sole remnant of the once mighty Portuguese possessions in India, at Ceylon, and Madras. The once famous city of Old Goa was abandoned almost two hundred and fifty years ago on account of the unhealthiness of its site. New Goa, some three miles distant, is a miserable place; but all the military force was deployed to do honor to the prince on his landing. It consisted of one European and one Sepoy battalion and a battery. Accompanied by the governor, the prince went in the steam-launch of the Osborne to visit the remains of Old Goa. weeds, and obsolete cranes." parent in a railway-journey to Kandy, the ancient capital, in the interior. Mr. Russell avers that it would be well worth while to go from London to Ceylon to enjoy the scenery of that day's ride. “Unand an extraordinary profusion of other trees-some derneath thick groves of cocoas, arecas and jaggery, “The river,” says Mr. Russell, "washes the remains of a great city—an arsenal in ruins; palaces in ruins; quay in ruins; churches in ruins; all in ruins. Long would it take to repeat the stories of our friends concern-bearing rich pink or crimson flowers, others presenting the places we passed. As one of them said: 'We ing glowing masses of scarlet buds, others with white were once great; we ruled vast provinces in this land; flowers and blossoms of purple or lilac-one caught now you are the masters. Look and see what is left to sight of the hamlets in which dwell the cultivators us !' We looked, and saw the site of the Inquisition, of the sea-like expanse of rice." The situation of the Bishop's prison, the grand cathedral, great churches, Kandy is especially beautiful. "In a deep ravine chapels, convents, religious houses, on knolls surrounded at one side of the plateau, or, more properly speakby jungle and trees, scattered all over the country. We saw the crumbling masonry which once marked the lines ing, of the broad valley surrounded by hills, overof streets and inclosures of palaces, dock-yards filled with looking a still deeper depression, on which the town is situated, the Mahawelli River thunders in its rocky bed. The small lake, by the side of which part of the city is built, lends a charming repose and freshness to the scene which is mirrored in its waters. Wherever the eye is turned rise mountain-tops, some bare masses of rock, others clothed with vegetation. There is no idea of a town or a city to be realized in what one sees: it is all suburb-verandaed pavilions and bungalows stretching in lines, bearing the names of streets; here and there the native houses, packed more closely, may be termed lanes; but the whole place is as 'diffused' as any of the rural quarters of the great metropolis. Public buildings, properly so called, there are none." But there is one drawback to the delights of wandering in the shady gardens where the air is heavy with the odor of strange flowers: a little black land-leech, hardly thicker than a pin, which swarms in uncounted myriads. "Go where one would, they came wriggling and jumping along the grass. They must smell one's blood. If you stood on the gravel-walk for a few moments you could see them making their way from all parts toward you as a common centre of interest. Most horrible of all their properties, they can stand erect on their tails and look out for what is coming." For protection against them, Europeans wear "leechgaiters," stocking-shaped bags of stout linen, which are pulled over the feet and fastened at the knee before the shoes are put on. Even his royal highness had to endue his noble extremities in these bags. At Kandy the prince was treated to a pera-hara, or procession of elephants, dancers, and priests, belonging to the Buddhist temples: The cathedral is half a mile from the landingplace, and the only conveyance is a kind of litter, here called a mancheel, in which the prince and governor took their seats, while the others went on foot. The cathedral is plain and massive outside, but of vast and noble proportions within, with shrines and chapels, much gilding, fine old silver-work, and many tolerable pictures. There were but seven worshipers, all native women, and kneeling before a huge shrine. From the cathedral they went to the church of Bom Jesus, chiefly noted for the shrine of St. Francis Xavier, one of the most beautiful and one of the richest objects of the kind which can be seen anywhere; but it is placed in a very small, dark chapel, and can scarcely be conveniently examined. The treasuries, full of gold and silver cups for the sacred elements, were opened, and many curiosities were exhibited." Before the church a musical performance had been gotten up in honor of the visitors. The principal performer was a very tall native, whose attire consisted mainly of a huge drum suspended from his neck. With one hand he belabored the drum, while the other hand held to his mouth a brass instrument which produced a tremendous tooting. The minor performers were a couple of youths with smaller drums, and another with a pair of cymbals. The coast of the island of Ceylon was sighted on the 1st of December, but the breezes from the shore were far enough from "spicy," blowing as they did over the heaps of oyster-shells, with their putrefying inhabitants, left on the shore by the pearlfishers; and, if the strangers were not warranted in pronouncing that "only man is vile," they certainly found the natives were very odd-looking, "the lower man being clad in petticoats, and the hair worn in massive rolls at the back of the head, where it was secured by large tortoise-shell combs." Colombo, the capital of Ceylon, is not a very large place, and a carriage-road around the environs fully justified the old fragrant repute of the island. "It was in some measure like a promenade in the covered ways of a great horticultural exhibition. For miles cocoanut-trees, and again cocoanut-trees, the suburban villas surrounded by cinnamon-groves, and almost buried in the richness of real tropical vegetation." The beauty of the island was still more ap "It was exceedingly grotesque, novel, and interesting, and would task the best pen and pencil to give an adequate idea of such combinations of forms, sounds, and figures. The 'devil-dancers,' in masks and painted faces, were sufficiently hideous. Their contortions, performed to the tune of clanging brass, cymbals, loud horns, presented no feature of agility or grace which might not be easily rivaled by an ordinary dancing group nearer home. The elephants, plodding along in single file, carried magnificent howdahs occupied by the priests, and were covered with cloth of gold and silver and with plates of metal, which shone in the light of the torches. Most of these animals were exceedingly polite, salaamed, and uttered a little flourish through their probosces as they came opposite to the place where the prince was standing. Some knelt down and made obeisance before him; but the pro priety of the procession was somewhat disturbed by the cupidity of one, which, finding that the prince had a small store of sugar-cane and bananas, resolved to make the best of his time, and could not be induced to go on without difficulty." At Kandy the prince was vouchsafed a sight of the "Dalada," or sacred tooth of Gotama Buddha, the most holy relic of the Buddhists. The legend of this is curious, but too long to be told here except in the most abbreviated form. Gotama died, it is said, almost twenty-five hundred years ago, and the sacred incisor was preserved in the capital of Kalinga, where it remained five hundred years, when it was taken to Ceylon, where it reposed for more than fifteen hundred years, when a prince from the mainland made an incursion into the island, and captured the venerated relic. The King of Kandy made a counter-incursion and recaptured it, and for some troubled centuries after it had a various fortune, being borne from one hiding-place to another. At last, in 1560, the Portuguese Dom Constantine of Braganza got it, as he supposed, at the capture of Jaffna, and carried it to Goa. The King of Pegu offered four hundred thousand cruzadoes for its ransom; but the pious Archbishop of Goa was resolved upon the destruction of the idolatrous relic. "He placed it in a mortar," so says the Portuguese chronicler, "and with his own hand reducing it to powder before them all, cast the pieces into a brazier which stood ready for the purpose; after which the ashes and the charcoal together were cast into the river in the sight of all those crowding to the verandas and The "Dalada" is kept in a small shrine in a tower adjoining a Buddhist temple. It is deposited in a bell-shaped, golden casket glittering with diamonds, emeralds, and pearls, standing on a silver table. When the prince and some of his suite were gathered in the chamber a priest brought the key of the casket from a secret receptacle. The outer casket being opened, inside of it was seen a second, then a third, fourth, and fifth, all of gold. Within the last, lying upon a golden lotus-leaf, was the sacred tooth which no mortal hand may touch. The eldest priest, quivering with unfeigned emotion, covered his hand with a piece of silk, and, taking up the golden leaf, held up the sacred relic for the prince's gaze. "There was not," says Mr. Russell, "much to see in the tooth; and, without faith, nothing to admire "<-a judgment fully borne out by his description: "The 'Dalada' is a piece of bone, or, as some say, of ivory, with a suture up the side. It is nearly two inches long and one inch round, tapering toward the end, which is rounded. If the article ever was in Buddha's mouth, and if he had a complete set to match, he must have possessed a wonderful jaw and a remarkable stomach; for it is easy to see that the tooth is not a human molar or incisor. It has been suggested that it was modeled after the canine teeth which are seen in some images of Vishnu and Kali; but it by no means resembles a true canine." The elephant is the symbol of Ceylon, and it was deemed fitting that here the prince should have the high gratification of an elephant-hunt in the jungle. windows which looked upon the water." But, if the | And here he killed his first and-to his honor be it Cingalese are to be believed, the archbishop had better have taken the money; for it was not the genuine tooth after all, but a sham one made for the occasion; while the genuine original was spirited away from the captured city, and found its way to Kandy. said-his only elephant. Great preparations had been made for this hunt. For more than a fortnight twelve hundred men or more had been busy in constructing a kraal in the jungle, and keeping an eye on the elephants, ready to drive them into the stock the trees. ade at the appointed time. The kraal was formed of the trunks of trees, strongly strutted and stayed, extending across a shallow wooded valley, with a tiny rivulet running through it. Across the valley were trees, creepers, and bamboos, growing so thick that the stockade could hardly be seen at a distance of twenty yards. Running from this kraal up the hill-side was a stake-net of wood-work, into which the beaters were to drive the elephants, after they had passed a high rock on which the prince was to take his stand. Lining the stockade were some hundreds of men, all keeping very quiet. The yells of the beaters had been heard long before nine o'clock, when the prince took his appointed place; but hour after hour passed, and no elephant was seen or heard. At half-past one there was a tremendous commotion, and word was passed that the herd of elephants was coming toward the stockade; their trampling could be heard as they crashed through Then the cries of the beaters receded. The herd had broken through the line, and were making off. There were, in fact, two herds, each led by a valorous old tusker. The second one was driven toward the ambush; but it, too, broke through the line. Fire was kindled to the windward of the herd, and presently a huge old tusker came crashing past within twenty yards of the prince, who fired and hit the beast fair in the head; but still he made off. One of the suite now came up and said that he had just wounded an elephant, and if his highness would come down, he could give it a finishing shot. Down he came, and, accompanied by half a dozen of his suite, crept through the dense, hot jungle. They caught sight of the wounded elephant. The prince fired, and the beast dropped. Mr. Hall, who was nearest, began to make a sketch, when the elephant got on his feet, whereupon the artist took to flight. On they crept through the jungle, the noise of invisible elephants being heard close at hand. Suddenly one came charging straight for them. The prince fired at ten yards' range, but apparently missed, for the elephant disappeared in the jungle. In a few moments another was perceived in a spot where the less dense thicket gave a chance for deliberate aim. The prince fired, and the huge beast fell upon its side and toppled into the little stream. They crept up to it and found it dead. The victorious marksman waded into the shallow water, and was boosted up upon the carcass, a most perspiring, ragged, hatless, yet triumphant royal personage. In Ceylon only the male elephant has tusks, and this was not a "tusker;" so that the only trophy was the tail, which the prince cut off, carried away, and, for aught we are told, took home with him to England. Ceylon was one of the points which the prince had from the outset insisted on visiting. He "did" the island in a week, and then, crossing to the mainland, went by rail to Madras. They made brief stops on the way, notably at Madura, reputed to be "the most charming town in Southern India," and notable for some noble pieces of architecture, among which is the "Choultrie," or lodging-place for the idol, built by the Raja Trimal Naik, who reigned from 1625 to 1657. This building, in which the idol belonging to the great temple close by stops for ten days in the year, "three hundred and three by one hundred and five feet, of iron-gray granite of exceeding hardness, was erected in twenty-two years at the cost of one million pounds. In front of it is a gate-tower the door-posts of which are single blocks of granite sixty feet high, covered with the most beautifully-sculptured foliage. The interior presents a display of four rows of sculptured columns twenty-five feet high, the figures being elaborated with extraordinary richness and abundant fancy." In the great pillared hall are statues of the raja and his six wives, in the side of one of whom is a deep gash. As the story goes, when Trimal Naik had finished the structure, he asked this wife, a princess of Tanjore, whether her father had in his dominions a building at all like to this. "Like this!" she exclaimed, scornfully; "why, the sheds in which he keeps his cattle are finer." Whereupon the incensed raja threw his dagger at her; it struck her in the hip and there remained. But this structure is hardly more than a portico of the great temple of the fish-eyed goddess Minakshee, the wife of Siva. "The temple is a rectangle, with sides of eight hundred and thirty, and seven hundred and thirty feet, covers twenty acres of ground, and has a grand hall with nine hundred and eighty-five sculptured columns surrounded by arcades, with grand gateways, porticoes, mysterious shrines, and monster idols. The shrine of Minakshee, which cost seventy thousand pounds, is surrounded with sculptured columns, and covered with a stone canopy, from the corners of which are chains of three links, carved out of the solid block, hanging from the stone of which they formed part." The journey from Ceylon to Madras occupied six days. Manifestations of loyalty were abundant enough; but the Indian authorities had evidently a lurking suspicion of treachery, as witness this significant paragraph: "It is with surprise that one hears of the precautions taken for his security wherever the prince rests, for there is no outward sign of them. As you approach the spot where the royal standard indicates headquarters, you see sentries on duty, perhaps a few native policemen at the corners of the avenues, or in front or rear of the house; but they do their work so unostentatiously that it is only by a close examination of the outposts one can form an idea of the magnitude of the force employed. There are at this moment seven hundred and sixty-two native policemen engaged in guarding the prince's headquarters." The annual races were going on at Madras, and the prince remained there for nearly a week, and then embarked on the Serapis for Calcutta, the voyage occupying five days. We pass hastily over the fortnight's stay in the "City of Palaces," noting only a few characteristic incidents. There was a constant round of entertainments and receptions. Among the most noted of the native potentates presented was Scindia, the Raja of Gwalior, far up toward the Himalayas, whom we shall meet hereafter. Nothing could be more obsequious than his deportment. He "walked toward the prince in a kind of eager, courteous, deprecating way, which no actor could imitate." But Mr. Russell regards him with a somewhat suspicious eye. He says: "The attachment of Scindia to the British 'raj' nearly cost him his throne in 1858; and he certainly did not increase his prestige among his own people by the discovery and surrender of a supposititious Nana Sahibheir, in their eyes, of the Peishwa. Scindia delights in soldiering, and a very good judge told me that he knew few officers in our service who could put a division of the three arms through a good field-day so well. His is one of the cases which present formidable difficulties in India. Here is a ruler of martial tendencies who has no possible career open to him, and whose devotion to drilling and manoeuvring must be more or less cause of anxiety to the paramount power." The Maharaja of Cashmere came in great state. "As to his aigret or plaque of diamonds, one can "A salute of nineteen guns was fired, and a closed brougham drove up to the steps. The door opened, and a shawl, supported on a pair of thin legs, appeared. On the top of the shawl there was the semblance of a head, but visible face there was none, for over the head was drawn a silk hood, and from it depended a screen, which completely hid the features. This was the Sultana Jehan, Begum of Bhopal. Her highness is about forty. With her came a daughter, draped and dressed in the same way. They walked very slowly, one after the other, up the steps, taking their time about it, as if they were performing some remarkable feat. The begum was very much at her ease, and chatted very pleasantly with the prince, while her daughter was engaged in conversation with Sir Bartle Frere." On New Year's evening there was a performance at the theatre, in which, by viceregal command, "the celebrated and world-renowned Charles Mathews, the greatest comedian of the age, and acknowledged as such by the world," appeared in his only say that there seemed to be a flash in the air as he turned his head in talking to the prince." When the prince formally returned the visit, the preparations for the reception were unique : "There was a tent of Cashmere shawls outside the house. The walls were draped with shawls of immense value; the floors of the rooms were covered with the finest shawls. One felt as if he were walking over charming paintings, and destroying with Vandal foot works of grand price. There was a dais shrouded in magnificent shawls at the end of the room; there was a shawl canopy for the throne or chairs of state. Rich as these were, the maharaja and his sirdars were richer still. They wore robes of stuff which might be described as being thickened with a crust of exceedingly fine jewels." Quite exceptional was an interview with a Hindoo woman of high rank: own comedy," My Awful Dad." This was announced as "the Prince of Wales's state night." The price of upper-tier boxes, holding six, was one thousand rupees; lower-tier boxes, holding five, five hundred rupees; stalls, thirty rupees. Maharajas, rajas, nawabs, chiefs, and the élite of Calcutta, who may wish to reserve boxes on this interesting occasion, are invited to communicate with the manager, Mrs. English." But, as Mr. Russell pathetically says, "the chiefs who were expected to pay one hundred pounds did not avail themselves as largely of the opportunity as the bénéficiaire expected." Three or four of them were all who put in an appearance. We imagine that the prince would have drawn better in Chicago than he did in Calcutta. On the 4th of January, 1875, the prince left Cal |