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CONTENTS OF VOLUME II.
LETTER XXXII.
Page
1
ROME.-The Buonaparte Family,
ROME.
LETTER XXXIII.
Statues in the Vatican.-Their effect upon the
mind. Criticism.--The Statues seen by torch light,
especially the Apollo.-Laocoon..-General observa-
tions on the Statues.--Canova's Gladiators.—Unar-
ranged Marbles,
LETTER XXXIV.
ROME. Pictures and Marbles in the Capitol.-Statues
in the Villa Albani and Villa Ludovisi.-Guercino's
Aurora, compared with Guido's painting of the same
subject. Observations on the Frescoes of the greatest
Masters,
7
18
LETTER XXXV.
-DUTCH AND FLEMISH SCHOOL.-Cardinal
Fesch's Collection,
LETTER XXXVI.
30
ROME. ITALIAN AND OTHER SCHOOLS.-Cardinal
-
Fesch's Collection of Italian, Venetian, and French
Masters. Madame Mere's (Napoleon's Mother)
Pictures, and Lucien Buonaparte's, Prince of Canino, 45
viii
CONTENTS.
LETTER XXXVII.
ROME. Fresco Paintings in the Palazzo Costaguti.-
The Poniatowski Collection.-Description of the.
Ancient Painting called the Aldobrandini Marriage.
Ancient Paintings in the Baths of Titus.--Prices given
by the Ancients for Pictures.--Statues of Castor and
Pollux.-Prices given for Colossal Statues.--Michael
Angelo's Statue of Moses in the Church of St Peter
in Vincoli,
62
LETTER XXXVIII.
ROME.-Paintings in the Doria Palace,
LETTER XXXIX.
ROME.--Pictures in the Colonna Palace.-Description
of the Gallery.-Corsini Collection of Pictures.--
Corsini Villa,
LETTER XL.
ROME. Paintings in the Spada Palace. Statue of Pom-
pey, supposed to be the Statue at which Cæsar fell
by the arm of Brutus.--Collection of Pictures in the
Sciarra Palace.-Barberini Pictures. Frescoes by A.
Caracci.-The Farnese Palace,
LETTER XLI.
ROME. THE CARNIVAL.-Amusements of the Carni-
val.--Rules to be observed by the People.-Religious
Ceremonies in the Holy Week.--Illumination of the
Dome of St Peter's.-Music called the Miserere.
Beautiful Effect in St Peter's.--Silence and Tempera-
ture, &c.
73
79
88
98
LETTER XLII.
ROME.--Raphael's Frescoes in the Lodges of the Vati-
can, and in his Villa.-Epitaphs of Salvator Rosa
and Claude Lorraine.-Music at the Chiesa del Giesu.
-Holy Staircase.-Tivoli and other Towns near
Rome.--Adieu to Rome,
LETTER XLIII.
ix
106
NAPLES. Journey to Naples.-Mount Vesuvius.—
Herculaneum.-Pompeii.-Collection of Paintings
and Antiquities in the Museum at Portici.-Goitres
between Naples and Portici.-Amusements at Naples, 114
LETTER XLIV.
NAPLES. Journey to Pæstum.-Character of the Tem-
ples. Return to Naples.-Statues in the Studii.-
Antiquities. Pictures.--Papyri or Herculaneum
MSS.--Departure from Naples,
124
LETTER XLV.
CORFU. Journey to Otranto,
LETTER XLVI.
CORFU.-Voyage to Corfu.-Albanian Shore.-View
in approaching Corfu.--Arrival at Corfu.--Hospitali-
ty of Sir Thomas Maitland, Governor-General.--
His Character,
LETTER XLVII.
CORFU.--City of Corfu.--Castradis.-Cottage of the
Governor-General.--Ship of Ulysses.-General Ap-
pearance of the Island.-Village of Potamo.-View
from the Mountain of St Salvador.-Ball.-Laxity
of Morals.-Aristocracy divided into Russian and
English Parties.--Assassination.--Superstitions and
133
150
LETTER XLVIII.
ZANTE.-Islands of Paxo and Zante,
LETTER XLIX.
CEPHALONIA.-Mount Enos,-Town.-Malaria.-
Vines. Fine Arts,-Ancient Cities.--Temple of Ju-
piter. Tombs.--Cyclopean Ruins.--Hills.--Propen-
sity of the Natives to Navigation,
LETTER L.
ITHACA.---Sail to Ithaca.--Counterfeit Coins.--Cave
of Dexia.-Guiteria.--Palace of Ulysses.-Relics of
Antiquity.-Rock of Corax.--Fountain of Arethusa.
-Hills composed of Limestone.-Homer's School.
-Vathi.-Population.--Climate.-Wines,
LETTER LI
PATRAS.-Doubts concerning the Antiquities of Itha-
ca.-Appearance of the Ionian Islands from the Sea.
--Knavery of our Greek Skipper.-Land on the
Coast of Albania.-River Achelöus.-Skipper's hat-
red of Ali Pasha.-Coast of the Gulf of Lepanto.→→
Appearance of Patras from the Sea.-Tomb of St
Andrew.-Greek Festival.--Costumes.---Streets.—
Slovenly Disposition of the Inhabitants.-Steam
Bath.--Fragments of Marbles.--Ancient Gate at
Ephesus spoiled of its Ornaments.--Port of Patras.-
Trade.-Consuls.--Expence of Living.--Climate.- -
Malaria. Plague.-Greek Wedding,
188
192
202
LETTER LII.
PATRAS. Procession of a newly-married Lady to her
Husband's House.-Greek Fast of Lent.--Turkish
Fast of Ramazan.-Honourable dealings of the Turks
contrasted with the Knavery of the Greeks.-Indo-
lence of the Turks.--Mode of Sepulture.--Ceme-
teries. Greek Dances.--Female Slaves.--Partiality
to the English. Views from Patras.-Annual Pro-
cession to the River Meilichus.-Mode of Building.
-Intermarriages of Turks and Greeks,
LETTER LIII.
VOSTIZZA.--Journey from Patras to Vostizza, ancient-
ly Ægium,
LETTER LIV.
xi
221
230
DELPHI.-Voyage to Scala, and Journey to Delphi,
LETTER LV.
DELPHI.-Reception on our arrival at the Priest's.--
Description of his House.-Castalian Spring-
Chapel of St John.--Monastery of Panagia.-Village
of Castri.--Stadium.---Sepulchres.-Site of the
Temple of Apollo.-Desolation of Delphi.-Rocks
and Scenery,
238
243
LETTER LVI.
LIVADIA. Journey along Parnassus to Livadia,
LETTER LVII.
LIVADIA. ANCIENT LEBADEA.-Archon.His Fa-
mily. Manners.-House of the Archon.-Cave of
258