amount of fatty matter, that its mere infusion is incapable of extracting those properties which would enable it to compete with tea or coffee.

By bruising the cocoa nib, and simmering it for many hours, a certain amount of flavour is obtained, and this partakes, to some extent, of the refreshing character of tea; still, however, this is so extravagant a method of obtaining, at best, a poor result, that it has been found necessary to grind the nib after roasting, and drink it rather as a mixture than an infusion. The first attempts that were made in this direction partially failed, in consequence of the difficulty of taking up the large amount of fat, equal to nearly half of its bulk.

The ingenuity of the dealers was next exemplified by their causing it to assume the form of an emulsion, by adding considerable quantities of starch or farina. When boiling water is poured upon the 'ground cocoa mixed with any kind of starch, the thickening so well known to every laundress takes place, the particles of cocoa fat included are held in suspension by the coagulum formed by starch, and a mixture of greater or less consistency is obtained, according to the quantity used.

Unfortunately, such preparations of cocoa resemble too closely the composition of melted butter. There can be no doubt that the opportunity afforded to manufacturers of lowering the price of cocoa, which

realizes more than a shilling per pound wholesale, by the addition of farina at 24d., has tended to disgust that portion of the community who object to mixtures, such as these, in lieu of the fragrant, refreshing qualities of true cocoa.

Within a short period, several manufacturers have overcome this difficulty by removing a large portion of the superfluous fat; they are thus able to grind cocoa to the highest degree of fineness, so that, in fact, it can be mixed with boiling water without the necessity of any extraneous matter to hold it in suspension.

This removal of the excess fat also renders the cocoa extremely easy of digestion; and when so prepared, it can be recommended as affording one of the best descriptions of nutritive beverages adapted to the requirements of the most delicate stomachs.

Of those who could not tolerate the thick greasy mixtures which have been so persistently puffed under the name of homœopathic cocoas and other catching titles, few are found to object to those more scientifically prepared cocoas which have been just described; and as the question of pure versus adulterated cocoas was discussed with no little acrimony a short time back, we are enabled to speak positively to the perfect purity and highly desirable qualities of some of the many samples

which have been recently submitted to the most searching investigation.*

Tea and coffee contain but a low per-centage of ingredients capable of assimilation, or conversion into bodily tissue; they may, therefore, rank chiefly as stimulants in the effects they produce upon the nervous system; and, as with alcoholic fluids, so in the case of these non-alcoholic stimulants, due moderation must be observed, or the effects of over-indulgence will be evidenced by a condition of nervous irritability and consequent depression similar to that which follows the excessive use of alcohol.

Cocoa, when deprived of superabundant fat, retains much of the stimulating effects attributed both to coffee and tea. It has, however, in addition the nutritive value of the nitrogenous matter which it possesses to a far greater extent than either tea or coffee. On this ground it has a real food value; and when the question of dietetic economy has to be considered, it must be acknowledged that cocoa has a higher value than either of them.

* Cadbury's Cocoa Essence and Schweitzer's Cocoatina are prominent examples of the success attending the sale of scientifically prepared pure cocoas, even from a time prior to the Adulteration of Foods Act.

CHAPTER XI.

KITCHEN ILLUSTRATIONS AND COOKERY.

THIS

HIS subject comprises no small portion of domestic economy. If the various articles of food are well bought, properly prepared for cooking, and then judiciously subjected to such culinary operations as are best adapted to develop their nutriment and agreeable flavours to the fullest extent, most food must be generally considered wholesome.

If veal and pork are less easy of digestion than beef or mutton, and if some vegetables are prone to disagree with a certain number of persons, it must be remembered that the existing condition of the digestive process may be estimated by the activity with which they perform their functions indiscriminately upon all articles of food.

If sufficient exercise is taken, and a healthy appetite is not immoderately indulged, good cookery will aid previous selection as to quality, and, as we know, the less eligible descriptions of food may be taken, not only with impunity, but witn considerable satisfaction.

As, however, we should have but very little to say if we were to address alone those to whom nothing comes amiss, we must endeavour to afford assistance, both in the selection of food and its cooking, to enable persons with less sturdy powers of digestion to enjoy and assimilate a sufficient variety of the different kinds of food. We are anxious also to relieve as far as possible the monotony which often ensues from depending too exclusively upon the superior digestibility of a few viands which are generally supposed to be more suitable in such cases.

It is obviously impossible to give instruction on what the cookery books entitle "how to market." But until a little more care is devoted to cookery, our knowledge of how to purchase, both economically and with some judgment as to quality, is valueless, and we may still pursue the haphazard plan of allowing tradespeople to send in pretty much what they please, in contradistinction to the care and vigilance which is exercised with so much advantage in the cities of France and Germany.

We have in England much to contend against, in the indisposition butchers and other tradesmen manifest to supply the small quantities which enable a sufficient diversity to be given to the continental breakfast and dinner. There is, happily, no such thing as cold meat cookery abroad, nor,