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Yes. In the month of November, we place the pots underneath the stage, turning them upon their sides, where they remain till February, when they are again repotted and started into growth in a mild heat.
2. What is the proper mode of treating tuberous rooted geraniums?
We have not had much experience with th class: they should, however, be managed similarly to other tuberous rooted plants : keeping them rather dry in winter, and potting them in fresh soil in March, and placing them in the warmest part of the house until they are well established.
3. How should Fuchsias be treated after flowering? Should they be allowed to rest or encouraged to grow?
They should be allowed to rest. In December we place the plants under the stage, and only give them an occasional watering, when they are quite dry, till February or March; they are then shifted into new pots, rubbing off the loose soil, and either headed quite down to the ground or all the lateral branches cut off to within an inch or two of the main stem; they will then make fine flowering plants by the month of June.
4. How should Cape Jasmine be treated, to make it flower, and to prevent the leaves from turning yellow?
Keep the plants rather dry during winter, and in March bring them into a temperature of 75° or 80° with more moisture, which will start them at once into growth; by May they can be placed in the greenhouse, or even in June plunged in the open ground, and they will retain the verdure of their leaves the year round, and bloom abundantly. The soil should be leaf mould, peat and sand.
5. How can Fuchsia corymbyflóra be made to flower? I have several plants of it, some old ones, and some raised within the
from cuttingsthey make a luxuriant growth, but refuse to flower, though I have kept them almost withont water for two months at a time.
We have never seen this superb species in good condition in our gardens; but we have described many fine plants which we saw in Europe, though it is there generally considered a rather difficult plant to manage well; it is a most luxuriant grower, and the only way to bring it into bloom is to confine it to a moderate sized pot, and bend down the top of the shoot to make it throw out laterals, which soon form flower buds.
6. What is the easiest mode of propagating the Oleander ?
Placing the cuttings in phials of water, in a temperature of 75° or 80°, until they emit roots, when they should be potted off into a light rich soil, composed of leaf mould, peat and sand.
Our correspondent is informed that, in our previous volumes, excellent articles have appeared on the culture of the Azalea, Gardenia, Camellia, Fuchsia, and, indeed, upon every popular plant.
RAISING GRAPE VINES FROM Seeds.-A Subscriber.-I see no reason why we may not have as great variety of hardy grapes adapted to the climate, as apples, and propose to plant a quantity of seed from several different kinds. As you have kindly offered to devote a portion of your valuable Magazine for the purpose of answering inquiries,-will you please inform me, through that medium, the best method of treating that seed. Loudon and other writers give us directions for planting other seed and for taking care of the young plants, but are silent about grape seedlings.
We are glad to find the culture of the grape, from seed, is attracting more attention; and we are happy to give all the information we possess to aid those who will make the attempt; convinced as we are, that it is to hybrids that we must look for varieties for out-door cultivation in our climate.
Our experience is rather limited, but we have now some hundreds under way, a few of which we hope to see in fruit the present year. Our plan has been to sow the seeds in boxes in February or March, placing them in a greenhouse, if one is at hand, if not, in a hothed, or even a frame; they will soon make their appearance above ground, and when two inches high, they should be potted off singly into small pots, and afterwards shifted, according to their vigor. The second year they are turned out into the open ground about the first of June, where they soon make vigorous shoots, and on the approach of winter are protected with a covering of coarse litter, or leaves. Their after treatment is the same as for vines raised from cuttings or layers. If A Subscriber will turn to our vol. IX, p. 373, he will find some capital directions on this head, from our correspondent, Mr. Camak of Georgia.
Grape Vines in the forcing house will now be setting their fruit, and will need much attention, being careful to keep up a good temperature, not too high at night, but regular and even. In the greenhouse and vinery, the eyes generally begin to swell about the twentieth of this month, unless the temperature is kept very low : as soon as they begin to swell, the shoots should be loosened from their place in front, and tied loosely up to the trcllis, allowing the ends to hang down. In this way, they may remain for two weeks, when the eyes will all show, and they may then be made fast to the trellis : syringe lightly, every morning and evening, in good weather. Cuttings may now be put in, if there is a hotbed at hand, if
young vines are wanted. Vines in pots may now be brought into the greenhouse, where they will soon start into growth, and produce good crops.
Peach Trees and Figs in pots may now be taken into the greenhouse or vinery, and will bring forward an early crop.
Scions of trees may still be cut and placed away as we directed last month.
Orchards, where there is a great deal to do in the spring, may be pruned now, which will save time in the busy season of April and May.
Pelargoniums will now require more attention. All plants which are intended to bloom well in April and May should now be repotted, if it has not been done before : eight inch pots are sufficiently small for good-sized plants, and, if they are very large, they will require about eleven inch : as soon as repotted, give them a good syringing, and, if they are attacked by the green fly, fumigate immediately. Train out the shoots carefully, and attend carefully to the watering : for further direction, we would refer to Mr. Beck's article in our last.
Roses will now be advancing rapidly, and such as appear stunted for pot room should be immediately shisted into a larger size : syringe occasionally, and fumigate to destroy the green fly.
Japan Lilies should now be repotted in the manner advised last month.
Dahlias, if wanted for very early flowering, should now be potted and placed in the warmest part of the greenhouse.
Camellias will now be in full bloom : give them abundant supplies of water at the roots, and syringe occasionally overhead : pick off all decay. ing flowers, and attend to impregnation, if seeds are wanted.
Verbenas should now be repotted.
Achimenes, Gloxinias, &c., started in pans, should now be potted off singly into small pots.
Schizanthuses should be now shifted into large-sized pots.
Fuchsias should now be propagated from cuttings of the new wood, if young plants are wanted.
Gladiolus Gandavensis, and Floribundus should now be potted for early blooming.
Spararis and Ixias, now about to bloom, should be liberally watered.
Ten Week Slocks, and other sorts of tender annuals, may now be sown for producing plants to turn out early into the border.
Nemophilas should again be potted if very large and fine plants are wanted.
Heaths should be carefully attended to; giving good supplies of water, and an occasional syringing overhead.
Azaleas now begin to show their buds, and may have a greater supply of water.
Plants in Frames should be aired in fine weather.
Hot Beds.-In gardens, where it is desirable to have early cucumbers or vegetables of any kind, hot beds should be put in operation ; about the middle of the month is the time to begin ; the beds will not then be in readiness to plant until near the end of the month.
Cucumbers should be planted in small pots, three seeds in each, and allowed to grow until they are hilled out next month.
Lettuce, Radish, Egg Plants, Marjorum, Tomato, Celery and other seeds. should be immediately sown in order to have early plants for placing out in the open ground as soon as the weather will admit.
We are highly gratified in being able to present our readers with so interesting a number. Besides our two articles, describing several new pears and apples, we may invite their attention to those by our correspondents. In our Floricultural article, it will be seen that we have made what, we hope, will be viewed as a great improvement, and which, we trast, will give amateur cultivators all the information respecting really fine and desirable new plants worthy of introduction. We have omitted several reviews and a variety of foreign intelligence to make room for the report of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society : they will appear in our next.
SAYTON & MILES are no longer our agents in New York; and our Subscribers in that city will receive their numbers for February by mail. A new agency will be established in a sew days.
Received - Manuscript communications from T. S. IIumrickhouse, Dr. M. A. Ward, J. II. Watts, J. W. Bissell, E. W. Leavenworth, W. R. Prince, A. II. Ernst, R. Chisholm, M. W. Philips, R. Manning, M. C. Johnson, L. P. llopkins, A Subscriber, Veio, A. Fahnestock, R. Buist, X., Turnsole.
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