Whether bulbs will flower well or not depends more upon their previous culture than on that which can be given them in pots, or in the ground; since it is not the process of formati n which we further by our care, but that of development. Before a pelargonium cutting can become a bushy plant, its branches must be made, for, although the rudimentary principles of a tree are certainly contained in a seed, yet the parts are not formed, and do not exist even in miniature at that early period. With bulbs it is different, for they do contain in embryo all the parts of the future plant and flower, so that their successful growth depends more on their healthiness and strength at the time of planting, than on any subsequent culture. Hence it follows that good bulbs must be planted, or fine flowers will never be the result of the greatest skill and attention. Firmness and weight are therefore to be considered in choosing bulls, even more than size; for a large bulb, if spongy, will never be so flourishing as a smaller one which is compact and firm. Select fine, well developed bulbs, in which a large quantity of healthy secretions has been treasured up during the previous season of growth, and then they will flower well in spite of poor soil and bad potting. This is proved by the fine flowers produced by hyacinths in water. Good soil is therefore to be regarded as more important for the future well-being of the plant than for its beauty at the present season; and, as most amateurs regard more the production of fine flowers now, than the future increase of their stock, a well grown, compact formation is indispensable.

If these remarks are correct, it follows that the size of the pot is not of much importance in flowering bulbs; and this suggestion of theory we have found correct in a rather extensive practice. We have flowered hyacinths and early tulips in the smallest pots, and they have been as fine as when grown in vehicles four times as large. We recommend 3-inch pots for hyacinths-those which are deep rather than wide. This sized pot is elegant, and has the advantage of taking up little room. More water will be demanded in proportion as less soil is allowed to the roots, but this is a matter easily regulated. For tulips, when planted singly, the same size pot may be employed; but a good effect is produced by three or four in a pot, and then it must be larger. Crocuses, we find, do best about ten together in 5-inch pots. But no rule can be laid down in these matters; every gardener must consult his own convenience, and the facilities he possesses.

Good drainage is absolutely necessary, for all bulbs are injured by wet lodging around and under them, although a percolating moisture does them good, as they bloom naturally in the wet season of the year. A few crocks should, therefore, be placed carefully at the bottom of the pot; and the soil should be light and sandy. The directions which have been given repeatedly in the Chronicle, respecting gradually admitting moisture to bulbs, must be well attended to. and, for this reason, no water need be applied at the time of planting. If the soil is moderately moist, that will answer every purpose for some weeks to come. Place your pots against a wall, on a bed of coal-ashes, to prevent the ingress of worms, and then cover them six inches deep with leaf mould or loam. This heap may have all the rain,

and in a few weeks the roots, protruding through the hole of the pot, will show that forcing may safely be carried on.—(Ib. p. 652.)

Glazing. About three years ago, a correspondent recommended the glazing of lights, by placing the glass edge to edge; and, having had some experience of the evils attending the lap and lead system, I immediately foresaw the value of the plan, provided the joints could be made watertight. I had, therefore, a few sashes made for experiment; they answered admirably, and I have not had any more made on the old plan, nor do I intend having any. They stood last winter (a fair one for a trial) without letting the least water through, or chipping at the edges, as was supposed; and I strongly recommend the plan. The sashes are easier to glaze, admit more light, and their weight is lessened. I should be glad to find a substitute for putty; and, if your correspondent, who some time ago recommended marine glue, has tried it, and would favor your readers with some account of his experience as to how it has stood the weather, and the best manner of using it, he will oblige-J. L.—(lb. p. 653 )

The Management of Hawthorn Hedges, in my opinion, has been, and is now much misunderstood; but, be that as it may, I will give you some account of my mode of managing them in the different stages of their growth. I will begin with an old hedge, which is thick at the top and thin at the bottom, and which is stopped with thorns. In the first place, I remove all the old stoppings or mendings, and, if I have no other use for them, commit them to the flames; I then commence at the back side of the hedge, (that is, the side most out of sight, so as not to disfigure the front, if possible,) at one end, and take out one of the plants. I choose one as young as possible, which I lay near the ground and close to the bottom of the hedge; I then, according to the length of the first, take another thorn, plant about the middle of that just laid down, and lay that on the top of the former, which of course reaches beyond it, then a third, and so on, going backwards to the end; by this means, they generally keep each other down; but sometimes a tie is wanted, seldom a crook, to keep them down. With young hedges, I always like to have the ground well worked before I begin to plant; I prefer a single row of plants four inches apart, but perhaps six would do as well. I prefer nursery plants, which I trim a little at the roots, but not at the top; I p'ant as shallow as possible, just covering the roots; I consider from one foot and a half to two feet the best size for the plants. If it should be very dry in March and April, I approve of giving a good watering, and, if the summer is very dry, perhaps a slight mulching, and this concludes my first year's operation, except weeding occasionally, which I generally do with the Dutch hoe. In the second spring after planting, I take the first plant at one end of the hedge, and lay it down in the direction of the other end, then the third plant, fifth, and so on to the end; I then begin at the other side of the hedge, and lay as before in the contrary direction, so as to make the plants cross one another. About midsummer, I take a pair of shears, and clip the sides and top a little, leaving one shoot in about every two

feet; this I let grow to the length of three feet; then I lay these over the first laying. I then let the young hedge grow so as to fit itself for cutting into the desired shape, which should slope from the ground to the top like a wedge.-(lb. p. 654.)

Flower Forcing.-Those who intend to provide a rich display very early in the spring, should now be in the market, and select things adapted for the purpose, of a superior character as to amount of flower-buds, and form of the plant. These things involve, of course, some little expense, but such is amply repaid where a proper forcing structure is provided. It cannot be expected that gardeners, as they are ordinarily situated, can provide all things necessary for this purpose so well as the nurserymen, whose sole business it is to look after things of the kind. As one important division of good forcers, we would recommend the ordinary American shrubs, many of which, although too large for the drawing-room stand, are admirably adapted for the vestibule or balcony, or for placing in conspicuous stations in the conservatory or mixed greenhouse. Of such are the various Rhododendrons, Azaleas of the nudiflora class, with various hybrids; the Rhodora canadense; Ledum latifolium and thymifolium; Kalmia latifolia, angustifolia, and glauca; Andromeda pulverulenta; the Daphnes, especially Cneorum, and even the old Polygala Chamæbuxus. These, with more of the same tribes, although not of very recent introduction, will be found to add greatly to the spring di play, as also to the diffusion of a most gratifying fragrance. Such should be obtained forthwith, potted in smallish pots, and plunged in the warmest corner of the garden, from whence they may be successively introduced to the forcing-house, from the middle of November until February. Such, if gradually cooled down when out of blossom, may be turned out into a reserve garden of bog earth in April, and will not unfrequently force very well the next season. When too large for pots, they will come in for the decoration of the shrubbery, so that little loss will be incurred. (lb. p. 639.)

Cultivation of Raspberries.-A few words on the cultivation of this favorite fruit may be useful at this season, when the old beds require care, and new planta ions should be made. The raspberry will bear fruit with almost any treatment, and this is the reason its culture is so often neglected. Odd corners of the garden, and shaded situations where nothing else will flourish, are often chosen, and a small crude fruit is the result. Like every other garden production, the raspberry knows how to turn free air and warm suns to excellent account, and every available advantage of this kind should be given them.

In most gardens, we find this plant cultivated in compartments, in rows just wide enough apart to allow of a passage for gathering the fruit; but, too frequently, these alleys become a mass of entangled branches before the summer ends, thus preventing the comfortable taking of the crop, and keeping the young shoots from the sun and air. Now, in whatever way you plant your canes, let there be great distances between the clumps, wide enough in the rows to allow of other crops. If the rule is observed, never to have two rows of raspberries together, but to put them at distances suffi

cient to allow of the growth of cabbages, turnips, celery, &c., every desirable end will be answered. In this case, the canes need not be far apart individually, and a greater as well as a finer produce will be secured.

In making new plantations, let the ground be trenched half a yard deep, and plenty of rotten manure be incorporated with the soil. This should be done a month or two before the time of planting, to allow of the settling of earth. As a general rule, raspberries planted this season should not be expected to bear fruit the next, as the object is to secure a vigorous growth of canes for another year. If you get your plants from a nursery with but little root to them, and probably very dry before you plant them, it will be necessary to nurse them well, in order to get any new shoots from them; and, if this year's stems are allowed to bear, you will probably have the fruit and nothing more for your pains, and have to fill up vacancies next year. You had better, therefore, cut down the stems to within a foot of the ground at the time of planting, and wait patiently till strong shoots next year repay you for your trouble.

But if you have a supply on your own ground, or can go yourself and see the plants taken up at a nursery near your garden, you may secure a crop next season without the risk of injuring your plantation afterwards. The writer has just planted out a quantity of the Fastolff raspberry, with the two objects of having fruit next season, and a permanent stock, and will detail his manipulations for the guidance of any who may have confidence enough in him to follow his example. In the first place, a hole was dug with a fork, about half a yard across, but not deep, the soil being only loosened by that instrument. With the same invaluable tool the plants were dug up from their old quarters, care being taken to have masses of root fibres adhering to them, and at least one strong bearing stem was inserted in each hole, surrounded by four or five smaller ones. The weak canes were cut nearly to the ground, but the strong were allowed about four feet, and from these the writer has no doubt abundance of fruit will be gathered, and, in most cases, shoots produced as well. The disturbance being small, and great care being taken in arranging and treading down the roots, the season also being early, it is concluded the canes will have no difficulty in progressing as well as they would have done in their former situation. This plan presupposes that you have an abundant stock of your own, or are not careful of expense, since more canes are required than would ordinarily be given to a new plantation.

Old beds should be now attended to. Cut off close or dig up all but three strong canes to each stake, and let them be firmly tied with some material strong enough to last a year. The thin top should be pruned down to a bud, leaving the canes strong and straight. Some rotten dung may then be forked in, care being taken not to injure the bunches of roots, which will be found in all directions.-(Ib. p. 668.)

Culture of Latanas in the open air.-For a long time, these charming shrubs have been kept in the hothouse, where they have been far from producing all the ornamental effects of which they are susceptible. Cultivated in the greenhouse later in the season, the umbels of flowers are much

more ample, more numerous, and brighter colored; and we would not place them in the stove only to hasten their flowering. We know of many amateur cultivators who have these plants in the form of a tree, from ten to twelve feet high, with round heads, studded in all parts with the clusters of flowers. So managed, these plants acquire an aspect and a charm inexpressible. But there is another mode in which, according to my mind, they may be made to acquire a form still more ornamental and picturesque; that is, planting them in the open ground in the open air, and in a good soil: this has been my practice for some years. My plants thus grow kindly, and form pyramids, which are literally covered from the bottom to the top with innumerable umbels of flowers, of the brightest color, and so agreeably changeable, as every one knows.

I set out the plants in their places about the middle of May, or as soon as all appearance of frost is over. I cut off, at this time, all the ill-shaped branches which injure the handsome form of the plants, and nip off the ends of the branches which are too vigorous and I then plant in a light soil very rich in humus. When the autumn frosts arrive, the plants are all taken up and potted, cutting in all the exuberant roots. They are watered lightly, and placed in a good greenhouse temperature, in a dry and light situation, where they are left until they begin to grow again. I would remark that, by this mode, old and deformed plants may be rapidly improved, and, no matter how ill-shaped, be made to take a very handsome aspect.(VAN HOUTTE, in Flore des Serres, Sept. 1847.)

ART. II. Foreign Notices.

FRANCE.

Exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society of Paris, Sept. 22, 1847. -Those who have seen the shows in London or Ghent, or that of the Cercle Général held last spring in Paris, would be sadly disappointed with the exhibition of the Royal Sociey, which took place last week at the Orangery of the Luxembourg; the flowers were badly arranged-no taste whatever was shown in the grouping of the plants; for instance, China Asters were seen in different corners of the room, and even one collection, to which, bythe-bye, a prize was awarded, was left standing upon the floor during the whole time; added to this, it was impossible to find out to whom some collections belonged, or to whom prizes were awarded, for the officers of the Society had omitted, in many instances, this very necessary duty, even on the second day of the show; moreover, either from accident or design, one of the most splendid of autumn flowers, the Dahlia, was altogether omitted from the schedule of prizes. Among the general collections were here and there a few good specimen plants of Veronica Lindleyana, Cuphea platycentra and miniata, Tillandsia acaulis, Pilocereus senilis, Eschynan