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Beginning at the shore, let us trace the various types of marine deposits outward to the floors of the great ocean-abysses. In many places, the sea is more or less barred back by the accumulation of sediment worn away from the land. In estuaries, for example, there is often such an amount of mud in the water that the bottom on either side is gradually raised above the level of tidemark, and forms eventually a series of meadows which the sea can no longer overflow. At the mouths of rivers with a considerable current, a check is given to the flow of the water when it reaches the sea, and there is a consequent arrest of its detritus. Hence, a bar is formed across the outflow of a river, which during floods is swept seawards, and during on-shore gales is driven again inland. Even where there is no large river, the smaller streams flowing off the surface of a country may carry down sediment enough to be arrested by the sea, and to be thrown up as a long bank or bar running parallel with the coast. Behind this bar, the drainage of the interior accumulates in long lagoons, which find an outflow through some breach in the bar, or by soaking through the porous materials of the bar itself. A large part of the eastern coast of the United States is fringed with such bars and lagoons. A space several hundred miles long on the east coast of India is similarly bordered.

But the most remarkable kind of accumulation of terrestrial detritus in the sea is undoubtedly that of river-deltas. Where the tidal scour is not too great, the sediment brought down by a large river into a marine bay or gulf gradually sinks to the bottom as the fresh spreads over and mingles with the salt water. During floods, coarse sediment is swept along, while during low states of the river nothing but fine mud may be transported. Alternating sheets of different kinds of sediment are thus laid down one upon another on the sea-floor, until by degrees they reach the surface, and thus gradually increase the breadth of the land. Some deltas are of enormous size and depth. That of the Ganges and Brahmaputra covers an area of between 50,000 and 60,000 square miles that is, about as large as England and Wales. It has been bored through to a depth of 481 feet, and has been found to consist of numerous alternations of fine clays, marls, and sands or sandstones, with occasional layers of gravel. In all this great thickness of sediment, no trace of marine organisms was found, but land-plants and bones of terrestrial and fluviatile animals occurred. Lower Egypt has been formed by the growth of the delta of the Nile, whereby a wide tract of alluvial land has not only

filled up the bottom of the valley, but has advanced into the Mediterranean.

Turning now to the deposits that are more distinctively those of the sea itself, we find that ridges of coarse shingle, gravel, and sand are piled up along the extreme upper limit reached by the waves. The coarsest materials are for the most part thrown highest, especially in bays and narrow creeks where the breakers are confined within converging shores. In such situations, during heavy gales, storm-beaches of coarse rounded shingle are formed sometimes several yards above ordinary high-tide mark (Fig. 29).

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FIG. 29.-Storm-beach ponding back a stream and forming a lake; west coast of Sutherlandshire.

Where a barrier of this kind is thrown across the mouth of a brook, the fresh water may be ponded back to form a small lake, of which the outflow usually escapes by percolation through the shingle. In sheltered bays, behind headlands, or on parts of a coast-line where tidal currents meet, detritus may accumulate in spits or bars. Islands have in this way been gradually united to each other or to the mainland, while the mainland itself has gained considerably in breadth. At Romney Marsh, on the south-east coast of England, for instance, a tract of more than 80 square miles, which in Roman times was in great part covered by the sea at high water, is now dry land, having been gained partly by the natural increase of shingle thrown up by the waves and partly by the barriers artificially erected to exclude the sea.

While the coarsest shingle usually accumulates towards the upper part of the beach, the materials generally arrange themselves according to size and weight, becoming on the whole finer as they are traced towards low-water mark. But patches of coarse gravel may be noticed on any part of a beach, and large boulders may be seen even below the limits of the lowest tides. As a rule, the deposits formed along a beach, and in the sea immediately beyond, include the coarsest kinds of marine sediment. They are also marked by frequent alternations of coarse and fine detritus, these rapid interchanges pointing to the varying action of the waves and strong shore-currents. Towards the lower limit of breakeraction, fine gravel and sand are allowed to settle down, and beyond these, in quiet depths where the bottom is not disturbed, fine sand and mud washed away from the land slowly accumulate. The distance to which the finer detritus of the land is carried by ocean-currents before it finds its way to the bottom, varies up to about 200 miles or more. Within this belt of sea, the landderived materials are distributed over the ocean-floor. Coarse and fine gravel and sand are the most common materials in the areas nearest the land. Beyond these lie tracts of fine sand and silt with occasional patches of gravel. Still farther from the land, at depths of 600 feet and upwards, fine blue and green muds are found, composed of minute particles of such minerals as form the ordinary rocks of the land. But traced out into the open ocean, these various deposits of recognisable terrestrial origin give place to thoroughly oceanic accumulations, especially to widespread sheets of exceedingly fine red and brown clay. This clay, the most generally diffused deposit of the deeper or abysmal parts of the sea, appears to be derived from the decomposition of volcanic fragments either washed away from volcanic islands or supplied by submarine eruptions. That it is accumulated with extreme slowness is shown by two curious and interesting kinds of evidence. Where it occurs farthest removed from land, great numbers of sharks' teeth, with ear-bones and other bones of whales, have been dredged up from it, some of these relics being quite fresh, others partially coated with a crust of brown peroxide of manganese, some wholly and thickly enveloped in this substance.

The same

haul of the dredge has brought up bones in all these conditions, so that they must be lying side by side on the red clay floor of the ocean abysses. The deposition of manganese is no doubt an exceedingly slow process, but it is evidently faster than the deposition of the red clay. The bones dredged up probably

Yet so

represent a long succession of generations of animals. tardily does the red clay gather over them, that the older ones are not yet covered up by it, though they have had time to be deeply encased in oxide of manganese. The second kind of evidence of the extreme slowness of deposit in the ocean abysses is supplied by minute spherules of metallic iron, which occurring in numbers dispersed through the red clay, have been identified as portions of meteorites or falling stars. These particles no doubt fall all over the ocean, but it is only where the rate of deposition of sediment is exceedingly slow that they may be expected to be detected.

Besides the sediments now enumerated, the bottom of the sea receives abundant accumulations of the remains of shells, corals, foraminifera and other marine creatures; but these will be described in the next chapter, where an account is given of the various ways in which plants and animals, both upon the land and in the sea, inscribe their records in geological history. It must also be borne in mind that throughout all the sediments of the sea-floor, from the upper part of the beach down to the bottom of the deepest and remotest abyss, the remains of the plants, sponges, corals, shells, fishes and other organisms of the ocean may be entombed and preserved. It will suffice here to remember that various depths and regions of the sea have their own characteristic forms of life, the remains of which are preserved in the sediments accumulating there, and that although gravel, sand, and mud laid down beneath the sea may not differ in any recognisable detail from similar materials deposited in a lake or river, yet the presence of marine organisms in them would be enough to prove that they had been formed in the sea. It is evident, also, that if the seafloor over a wide area were raised into land, the extent of the deposits would show that they could not have been accumulated in any mere river or lake, but must bear witness to the former presence of the sea itself.

Summary. The sea records its work upon the surface of the earth in a twofold way. In the first place, in co-operation with the atmospheric agents of disintegration, it eats away the margin of the land and planes it down. The final result of this process if uninterrupted would be to reduce the level of the land to that of a submarine platform, the position of the surface of which would be determined by the lower limit of effective breaker-action. In the second place, the sea gathers over its floor all the detritus worn by every agency from the surface of the land. This material

is not distributed at random; it is assorted and arranged by the waves and currents, the coarsest portions being laid down nearest the land, and the finest in stiller and deeper water. The belt of sea-floor within which this deposition takes place probably does not much exceed a breadth of 200 miles. Beyond that belt, the bottom of the ocean is covered to a large extent with deposits of red clay derived from the decomposition of volcanic material and laid down with extreme slowness. These and the widespread deposits of dead sea-organisms (to be described in next chapter) are truly oceanic accumulations, recognisably distinct from those derived from terrestrial sources within the narrow zone of deposition near the land.

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