▲ BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, ANTIQUARIAN, AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY.

(Concluded from p. 108.)

Ar length we reach the third volume, and fancy ourselves giddy as we gaze from the height of the matchless cathedral of Strasbourg. But here again we must remonstrate with the author; for Strasbourg should have been packed up with the preceding volume-thus rendering the account of France complete in the two first. Mr Dibdin seems to have been delighted with his stay at this celebrated city and university, notwithstanding the thermometer was sometimes at 93°, and he was obliged to walk uncovered in the streets, "with an umbrella over his head," to protect him from the positive heat, and his hat before his face "to protect him from reflected heat!" "Mortalibus nihil arduum est." In his visits to old libraries and cathedrals, Mr Dibdin met with the most unbounded confidence. At one time he is alone in the public library, listening to the charity children rehearsing the hymn of Martin Luther, while the cooling zephyrs steal in at the opened latticed windows, and his very memoranda papers are tinted with the varied colours of the stained glass! At another time, he is regaling at the well replenished table of Madame Franes, who closes her shutters to keep out the solstitial ray, and sprinkles her floor with rose-water, to refresh the wearied Bibliographer. After dinner, the whole party stroll toward

the spot where Gutenberg is supposed to have made his first experiments in the art of printing.

"On returning from this agreeable evening stroll, (says Mr Dibdin,) while we were discoursing upon different topics, chiefly political, one of my companions, Professor stopped for some two or three seconds, and with rather a decided gripe of the arm, and with great emphasis and sincerity of manner, exclaimed,- My friend, it is in YOUR COUNTRY where liberty is to be found; PRESERVE it, therefore, I entreat you.'”

The copperplates scattered about the account of Strasbourg are equal to their precursors. But the portrait of the Elder Schweighauser, given in the author's description of Baden, strikes us as incomparably characteristic and faithful; while the author's account of the ORIGINAL is not less pleasing and interesting. Baden delights us much; it seems to be full of beauties, natural and acquired. When we next visit it, we hope we shall fall in with the venerable "Master-singer and his niece." See p. 109.

But it is at Stuttgart that our author cuts the most conspicuous figure, and performs his first, and his greatest act of Bibliographical diplomacy. Here it was that two editions of Virgil, for the possession of which Lord Spencer had been sighing for the last twenty years, were borne off in triumph by the reverend tourist,-not, however, without a good deal of cautious, and sometimes almost hopeless, renewal of projets and contre-projets. Mr Dibdin borrows point lace, and

gocs to court unfrocked upon the evening of the Sabbath. He sees the queen, converses with her, and then with her husband, his majesty of Wirtemberg. The conversation between the king and our author is a good specimen of plain dealing on both sides. The affair is thus told in

the author's own words.

"When it came to my turn to be addressed, the king at once asked, ' If I had not been much gratified with the books in the public library, and particularly with the two ancient editions of Virgil?' I merely indicated an assent to the truth of this remark, waiting for the conclusion to be drawn from the premises. 6 There has been some mention made to me (resumed his majesty) about a proposed exchange on the part of Lord S, for these two an cient editions, which appear to be wanting in his lordship's own magnificent collection. For my part, I see no objection to the final arrangement of this business, if it can be settled upon terms satisfactory to all parties. This was the very point to which I was so anxious to bring the conference. I replied coolly and unhesitatingly, That it was precisely as his majesty had observed, that his own collection was strong in Bibles, but comparatively weak in ancient classics, and that a diminution of the latter would not be of material consequence, if, in lieu of it, there could be an increase of the former, so as to carry it well nigh towards perfection; that, in whatever way the exchange was effected, whether by money or by books, in the first instance, it would doubtless be his majesty's desire to direct the application of the one or the other to the completion of his Theological Collection.' "The king replied, He saw no objection whatever to the proposed exchange, and left the forms of carrying it into execution with his head librarian, Mr Le Bret.' Having gained my point, it only remained to make my bow. The king then passed on to the remainder of the circle, and was quickly followed by the queen. I heard her majesty distinctly tell General Allan, in the English language, that she could never forget her reception in England; that the days spent there were among the happiest of her life, and that she hoped, before she died, again to visit our country.' She even expressed gratitude for the cordial manner in which she had been received and entertained in it.'

"The heat had now become almost unsupportable, as, for the reason before assigned, every window and door was shut. However, this inconvenience, if it was severe, was luckily of short duration. A little after nine their majesties retired towards the door by which they had entered,

which, as it was re-opened, presented, in the back-ground, the attendants waiting to

receive them.

The king and queen then saluted the circle, and retired. In ten minutes we had all retreated, and were breathing the pure air of heaven. I preferred walking home, and called upon M. Le Bret in my way. It was about half past nine only, but that philosophical Bibliographer was about retiring to rest. He received me, however, with a joyous welcome, re-trimmed his lamp, complimented me upon the success of the negotiation, and told me that I might now depart in peace from Stuttgart, for that the affair might be considered as settled.' pp. 176, 171.

We think the subjoined note is absolutely necessary to "put the colophon" (as Mr D. sometimes phrases it) to the above story.

"For the sake of juxta-position, I will here mention the SEQUEI., as briefly as may be. The affair' was far from being at that time settled.' But, on reaching Manheim, about to cross the Rhine, on my return to Paris, I found a long and circumstantial letter from my bibliographical correspondent at Stuttgart, which seemed to bring the matter to a final and desirable issue. So many thousand francs had been agreed upon; there only wanted a well bound copy of the Biblio graphical Decameron to boot;-and the Virgils were to be considered as his Lordship's property!' Mr Hamilton, our Charge d'Affaires, had authority to pay the money, and I walked instantly to Artaria's, purchased a copy of the work in question, (which happened to be there, in blue Morocco binding,) and desired my valet to get ready to start the next morning, by three or four o'clock, to travel post to Stuttgart; from whence he was not to return without bringing the VIRGILS, in the same carriage which would convey him and the Decameronic volumes. Charles Rohfritsch immediately prepared to set out on his journey. He left Manheim at three in the morning; travelled without intermission to Stuttgart,-perhaps fourscore or ninety miles from thence-put up at his old quarters, Zum Waldhorn, (see p. 13, antè,) waited upon M. Le Bret with a letter, and the Morocco tomes-RECEIVED THE VIR GILS and prepared for his return to Manheim-which place he reached by two on the following morning. I had told him, (as Louvois told Chamillo, see p. 8, antè,) that, at whatever hour he arrived, he was to make his way into my chamber. did as he was desired. LES VOILA,”exclaimed he, on placing the two volumes hastily upon the table, Ma foi, Monsieur, c'est ceci une drôle d'affaire; il y a je ne sçai pas combien de lieues que j'ai tra versé pour deux anciens livres qui ne va

He

lent pas à mes yeux le tiers d'un Napoleon! I readily forgave him all this saucy heresy, and almost hugged the volumes, on finding them upon my table. They were my constant travelling companions through France to Calais; and when I shewed the

Adam Virgil to M. Van Praet, at Paris, Enfin, (remarked he, as he turned over the broad-margined and loud-crackling leaves,) voilà un livre dont j'ai beaucoup entendu parler, mais que je n'ai jamais

vu! These words sounded as sweet me

lody to my ears! But I will unfeignedly declare, that the joy which crowned the whole was, when I delivered both the books into the hands of their present NOBLE OWNER, with whom they will doubtless

find their FINAL RESTING PLACE."

But we must hasten on, as we have but just crossed the Rhine,-and it is yet five or six hundred miles to Vienna. We cannot, however, quit Stuttgart, dull and dreary as it seems to be, without noticing the series of beautiful wood-cuts from the Faustus of Goethe, infinitely preferable, in our estimation, to the horrible "drolleries" (as they are called) which encircle a part of Strasbourg cathedral,— and to obtain correct drawings of which, our author was obliged to negotiate, through his friend the younger Schweighauser, with the mayor and corporation of Strasbourg. He rejoices, however, that they are more numerous and more faithful than what Cicognara has given of the same subject, in his splendid folio volumes of Continental Antiquities. Of other embellishments at Stuttgart, the Crucifix, and the Representation of the Trinity from a Psalter of the 12th century, are the most deserving of attention. At Ulm, we have a view of the famous Minster-and a very amusing account of a certain Professor Veesenmeyer, whose pipe was as long as himself, somewhere about five feet, and whose hard-hearted love of his own library would not allow of Mr Dibdin's making any impression, even upon either of his Patient Grisels, that is to say, upon two rare and old editions which he possessed of that popular tale. We think all the Professor's Latin notes to our author might have been spared, and really wish Mr Dibdin had stopped a day or two longer at Ulm. We beg leave to submit to our learned political readers the following extract from a misera bly printed chap-book, called Aimanach Historique nommé Le Messager

Boiteux, which our author bought on a stall on a market day.

"Depuis longtems la substance et l'existence de cet empire est un probléme pour bien des hommes instruits. Après plus de vingt ans d'une guerre gigantesque et continuelle, elle a viancu la France sa rivale; soutenu, avec reconnaissance, par son or, battre avec elle, et laisse à peine apperced'autres potentats de l'Europe, pour comvoir une indice de son propre épuissement, tandis que d'autres états du continent se reposent exténués.

Elle entretient une armée de terre excellente et éprouvée, égale à la meilleure qui existe dans tout autre empire de l'Europe, et en outre une immense marine, contre laquelle toutes les flottes réunies du monde ne pourraient lutter, ni par la force, ni par la manœuvre ; et cependant il a été prédit dès longtems, que ces énormes efforts précipiteraient la Grande-Bretagne dans l'abîme. Elle repose sur la large fondation de sa dette publique, aussi ferme, aussi fière, aussi sure, que peuvent l'être d'autres états sur leurs riches trésors." Sign. D. 3.

On the summit of the tower of Ulm cathedral, our author saw, for the first time, the Danube flowing rapidly in a narrow bed; but he does not appear to have paid it so much homage as he did to the Rhine, seen for the first time from the summit of Strasbourg cathedral; consult p. 20. From Ülm Mr Dibdin went direct to Augsbourg, and took up his quarters (according to his own account) at one of the most magnificent hotels in Europe!

called The Three Negroes. At Augsbourg our author runs riot in the Picture Gallery, as well as in the Public Library. The number of paintings by the old German masters quite amaze and delight him,-apparently with good reason; for we are among those who profess our veneration for early and great masters of the German school,-Burgmair, Amberger, the two Holbeins, Cranach, and, above all, ALBERT DURER. The engraved portrait of Melancthon, from Burgmair, is equally new and estimable in the graphic world; but surely the eyes are too much distended? At Augsbourg our author completes his next great piece of bibliographical diplomacy,-carrying away from the public library some exceedingly valuable books, and quitting the town with the Polish Bible of Prince Radzivil, and the first Horace, in his travelling carriage. We love Professors Beysilag and May exceedingly; and

consider them very faithful guardians of the public property committed to their charge! Doubtless, however, they applied the monies received from our author to the honourable uses for which such sums were intended. Mr Dibdin found unquestionable traces of stereotype printing at Augsbourg as early as the middle of the sixteenth century, and purchased an original block, (supposed to be of pear-tree,) which measured a foot and a half in length, by one foot in breadth. The block he considers to be 300 years old; of a portion of this he has given us an impression; beauties it no doubt possesses in his eyes, but to us they are imperceptible.

At Munich, Mr Dibdin appears to have staid as long as he did at Rouen. Indeed, what Rouen is in old houses and churches, Munich seems to be in old books and pictures. Such a mélange of wood-cuts and copperplates,*

One of the "hebdomadal journals," before alluded to, in criticising an engraving of a Dead Christ, in the lap of the Father, in the public library at Munich, upon which there had been a MS. coeval date of 1462, thought that Mr Dibdin was an utter ignoramus in the antiquity of subjects of this kind, and recommended him (whom he knew, and not believed, to live at Kensington) to look at a similar subject painted upon an old oaken pannel, in Kensington palace, which had belonged to Margaret, the wife of James IV. of Scotland. Now, in the first place, the reverend author was not talking of paintings of this nature, but he noticed the above, as an early engraving, probably the first of its kind, upon copper, which had escaped the researches of Zani, Strutt, and the eminently learned Ottley. In the second place, the reviewer, or critic, or journalist, (or whatever name delight him best,) might have been satisfied, on the ground of antiquity, with the illumination at Stuttgart, from a psalter of the 12th century, unless he fancied oil painting upon pannel to be anterior to body-colour painting upon vellum. We make no doubt, that the subject in question may be seen, of the earliest periods, both in oil and in water colours, in half the monastic libraries of Germany. There is nothing more disgusting to us than this" bow-wow" sort of criticism; this swaggering tone, under the affectation of superior knowledge, and a more widely extended research. This Πείθοῦ λεγοῦση χρηστὰ

κἀπ ̓ ἐμοῦ κλήση χάριν. Trachinia, v. 477-8.

of almost every description, which are crowded into the pages relating to this city, we never before had the good fortune to cast our eyes upon! Such bizarrerie, in the way of art, is quite unprecedented; and we think the reverend author may bet and back these monsters against any thing in the pages of his own previous publications, or in those of Messrs Heineken and Ottley. A beautiful contrast to these frightful subjects appears at p. 255, in the group of market-people at Munich.

The lists of MSS. and printed books here are extensive and valuable. The account of the original prayer books of Albert Durer and Lucas Cranach, that is, books of devotion, with margins adorned by the drawings of those eminent masters, will be read with no common interest; but more to our taste are the four folio volumes, containing the seven penitential psalms, of which one Gaspar Ritter, of the author's account of the curators of the 16th century, was the binder. Our library, and of two booksellers of the names of Stoeger and Von Fischeim, is very amusing. We think the worthy Baron Von Moll a very droll sort of gentleman, although we do not mean to doubt the authenticity of his story about Bonaparte and Marshal Lasnes; see p. 308. The letter of Professor Hesse is quite an unique. Mr Dibdin performed a third act of his Bibliographical drama at Munich. He secured the Greek Hours, printed by Aldus in 1497, in very small 32mo, and the folio Mentetin German Bible, each for the "noble cabinet in St James's Place."

Our author at length quits Munich, and makes a digression, for Freysing, Landshut, and Salzburg, in his route to the capital of Austria. The former of these places contains a crypt, so tempting on the score of its antiquity and ugliness, that we are favoured with two very singular and very beautifully executed copperplates of the pillars of this crypt. In his way to Freysing, Mr Dibdin thus indulges a feeling, in which we go along with him toto corde.

"The morning was grey and chill, when we left the Schwartzen Adlen; but as we approached Garching, the first stage, the clouds broke, the sun shone forth, and we saw Freysing, (the second stage,) si

tuated upon a commanding eminence, at a considerable distance. In our way to Garching, the river Iser and the plains of Hohentinden lay to the right; upon each of which, as I gazed, I could not but think alternately of MOREAU and CAMPBELL. You will readily guess wherefore. The former won the memorable battle of Hohenlinden, fought in the depth of win ter, by which the Austrians were completely defeated, and which led to the treaty of Luneville; and the latter, (that is, our Thomas Campbell,) celebrated that battle in an Ode,of which I never knew how to speak in sufficient terms of admiration; an ode, which seems to unite all

the fire of Pindar, with all the elegance of Horace; of which parts equal Gray in sublimity, and Collins in pathos." p. 325. We wish Mr Dibdin had staid longer at Freysing, not for the sake of getting fusty old books from one Mr Mozler, but of pursuing his inquiries respecting the old church and the antiquities of the place. Mr Dibdin reached Landshut by moonlight. The Ingoldstadt University, and its library, have been transferred to this place. Here some very curious books are described, especially a complete collection, which belonged to Eckius and Luther, and a copy of the Complutensian Polyglott, which had been the property of Demetrius Chalcondylas, and had been purchased by him for xiiij ducats. Here, too, Mr Siebenkees, the librarian, showed our author a unique copy of Der Veis Ritter, or the White Knight. We have long thought that there is no such thing as uniquity, and we think so still.

We are now full half way to Vienna. On leaving Landshut, Mr Dibdin darted across a country, fertile in its cultivation, and graced in its background by a chain of magnificent mountains, many of which were capt with snow. At Altöting, a most curious story is told of a church dedicated to the Black Virgin, and we shall take care, when we visit that spot, never to enter or quit it with a crowded congregation. The account of Salzburg is very interesting. This fine old, but now half deserted town, is situated at the northern extremity of the Tyrol, "in one of the most marvellous and romantic spots in Furope,-in the vicinity of lakes, mountains, torrents, trout-streams, and saltmines," as it is described by our enthusiastic tourist. But there was "metal more attractive" for Mr Dib

VOL. IX.

din in the library of St Peter's Monastery, the oldest in Austria. We next get into a circle of monastic vi sits from Salzburg to Chremsminster, and from thence to St Florian, Mölk, and Göttwic. The whole of this portion of our author's work, together with its fascinating embellishments, is quite new to British readers. We hardly know more amiable men, in their way, than Mr Hartenschneider, at Chremsminster, and the Abbot Altmann at Göttwic. The visit to the latter place assumes almost a romantic air. In our opinion, Oxford has no building equal to Mölk, if the plate do not flatter; and we would defy the head of Christ Church, or of Magdalen, or of Brazen Nose, or of Oriel, to enact the part of a hospitable host and well-bred gentleman more thoroughly than did the superior of Göttwic monastery. We also doubt if their united gardens and cellars would produce peaches and wine of a more exquisite flavour, than what was placed before our traveller, at the high table in the hall of this monastery.

At last we reach VIENNA, and, a though the pages which relate to this capital are full of varied, minute, interesting, and valuable informationalthough the account of the illuminated MSS. and early printed books be copious, and, of course, of the highest interest to Bibliographers and Collectors; yet we must be comparatively brief in our review of this portion of Mr Dibdin's labours. The copperplates are numerous, almost to redundancy. We like and love Messrs Bartsch and Kopitar, who showed a more than ordinary attention to our author, by devoting the first week of their vacation to the furtherance of his researches in the library. The account of the Prater is evidently an elaborated performance, and parts of it glow with nature, and sparkle with art. The Great and Little Belvidere are but cursorily described; the former seems to contain a countless collection of pictures, and the latter a very extraordinary collection of ancient armour. The Cathedral, of course, is not forgotten, and a plate of it is added, (being a reduction from a larger one,) brilliantly executed. The description of, and criticism upon, Canova's famous tomb, to the memory of the Grand Duchess Albert, merit quo

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