good stories of wild bush life, and adventures in Venezuelan warfare.

But I observed that however pleasant otherwise, the American, when addressing his partner, always changed his manner to one of determined coolness, and spoke in a slightly sneering manner; for which he received from Gerilleau a reply either graced with marked courtesy, or snappish impatience. It was evident they were not friendly.

We dropped anchor that night on the shore of Costa Firma, as the Spaniards distinguish the mainland from the islands; although we were really on the shore of the island De la Brea. Next morning, we skirted the coast. The yellow mudflat was dotted with innumerable flamingoes, elsewhere called curry curries (phoenicopterus), of a beautiful scarlet or flame colour when at maturity, but dark ash-coloured at first, changing afterwards to the purest white, and ultimately to red. Above the mud-flat waved the low dark green mangrove bush, useful in the process of tanning, and as firewood. And away in the distance, its

summit touching the clouds, the blue Sierra de San Juan.

At the bocas, or mouth of the Guarapiche river, we passed a little island, and later arrived at the confluence of the San Juan and Guarapiche, where an island forms three cañas-Caña San Juan, Caña Frances, and Caña Colorado; and ultimately we arrived at La Ceiba.

CHAPTER II.

LA CEIBA.

LA CEIBA (silk cotton tree) is the property of an American merchant, residing in the city of Maturin, which is distant three days' journey up the river, or one day's journey by land. The proprietor deals largely in oxen, which are periodically driven down over the savannahs by a road made for the purpose. The two shipping places are the Embarcadero, a mile higher up the river, and La Ceiba, where vessels are ready to take the oxen to the neighbouring islands. Here are craals, or cattle pens, leading into each other, so as to divide the oxen when necessary.

The coming in of cattle is an exciting scene to strangers. First a rushing, roaring sound is heard at a distance, occasioned by the tramping of the oxen, which are, perhaps, arriving after a three to five days' journey; then the cracking sound of the

long whips is heard-these have handles of deerfeet generally, and the thongs are about five or six yards long. While you listen, the voices of the chief Llaneros, joined occasionally in chorus by their companions, resound in the forest-the distance and the woods lending an additional charm to the really pleasant music. And then come the droves (vacadas) of cattle (ganado) from sixty to several hundreds, running or leaping into the open pen. They look blown from the fatigue and want of food; but it is to be seen that they carry heavy flesh and good fat.

There is a frank boldness in the Llaneros, or dwellers on the Llanos plains, that one sees sometimes among sailors or soldiers, as, having arrived, and their oxen penned, they advance with their double cobija, or cloak-which, inverted, serves as a red or blue one at pleasurecarelessly thrown over their shoulders, or tied sash-like over one shoulder, crossed to the side; their oznaburgh trousers made short to the knees, and their travelling zapatos, or laced boots, each made of one entire piece of leather, leaving an

A Country House.

15

opening before the toes for ventilation and drainage, they salute you with a hearty Buenos dias.

The house at La Ceiba is a very large twostorey building, with a thatched roof of timitchi, or troolie palm. The posts are planted in the ground. The ground floor is, literally, an earthen floor; the second flooring and enclosures are of split manicole palm, and fastened together by bush twine. There is probably not a single nail used in the construction of this large wooden building; notwithstanding, it is the storehouse for heavy bags, bales, and packages of tobacco, hides, corn, cassavae bread, cotton, clothing and hardware. And withal, I have seen scores of chinchoras (hammocks), swinging with their inmates, who were singing their improvised songs to the thrumming of bandolas, or chaffing, laughing, and conversing. And, not unfrequently, I have had my attention directed to a large culebra, or snake, moving about the thatched roof.

The manager of La Ceiba is a black man of extraordinary height and good proportion. His