[Want of room compels us to omit the premiums offered for 1847 till our next number.]

Exhibited.-FRUIT: From the President of the Society, Nonsuch apples and fine Easter Beurré pears; also a variety of apples received from various sources, among which were the Esopus Spitzemberg (very fine,) Winter Pennock (poor,) Fall Harvey, in good preservation, but flavor indifferent. Messrs. Hovey & Co. exhibited Baldwin apples, and Bergamotte de Parthenay pears; also handsome Northern Spy apples received from J. H. Watts, Esq., Rochester, New York, which the committee pronounced very fine.

ART. III. Answers to Correspondents.

We now resume our answers to correspondents, and shall endeavor hereafter not to allow so long a space to occur again.

POLMAISE HEATING.-J. C.-We intend to give a full account of this method of heating as soon as we can find room: a great deal has been said in its praise in the English papers, and from a small apparatus which we have erected in one of our houses on the plan, we think much more favorably of it than formerly. A few years ago we tried to heat a small house, with a furnace, in the same way that dwellings are warmed; but the furnace was not of sufficient power, or properly constructed, and we erected a common furnace with flues, in its place. Since the principles of Polmaise have been so ably elucidated, we have pulled down the old one, and erected another, combining that system with the common flue, and we find it to work so well, that we should recommend it to the attention of amateurs for further trial. We shall offer some facts which we think will show its economy over flues or hot water.

ACHIMENES PICTA.-An Amateur.-This most beautiful species first flowered here in our collection in the Summer of 1845, and subsequently found its way into many choice collections of plants; it is the most brilliant of the tribe, and is as easily cultivated as either of the other species. The little corms or tubers should now be potted in a soil of leaf mould and peat, with little sand, and placed in a hotbed or very warm place in the greenhouse, where they will soon begin to grow. When they have made four or five leaves, they may be potted off singly into small pots, or in shallow pans, eight inches broad, five or seven plants in each; in this way, they flourish well, and make a splendid show; give a good drainage. We shall endeavor to offer an article on this tribe soon.

SCARLET PELARGONIUMS.-X.-Many of the new kinds are a great improvement upon the old ones; the following comprise six new and choice varieties: King, Ingram's Dwarf, Mallason's No. 1, Mallason's No. 2, Nimrod and Huntsman. They are all profuse flowerers, and of dwarf habit.

JAPAN LILIES.-I. W. J.-We shall endeavor to comply with your wishes, and should probably have done so before, had we not misplaced a draw

ing, taken from a superb specimen last summer, which we intended should accompany our article; our plants last season were the admiration of all, some of them producing sixty flowers. In the mean time we advise planting in a compost of leaf mould and peat in equal parts, with a small quantity of sand.

THE BEST VARIETIES OF APPLES, PEARS, CHERRIES AND PLUMS.-S. D. Red field. The earliest and best four summer APPLES are the Early Harvest, Bough, Red Astrachan and Williams's Favorite: the best four Fall, Porter, Gravenstein, Fall Pippin and Lyscom: the best four Winter, Baldwin, R. I. Greening, Russet and Northern Spy. The earliest and best three summer PEARS, are the Citron des Carmes, Jargonelle and Bloodgood: the best three Fall, Williams's Bon Chrétien (Bartlett,) Louise Bonne de Jersey, Paradise d'Automne: the best four Winter, Beurré d' Aremberg, Winter Nelis and Glout Morceau. The two earliest and best CHERRIES, are the Mayduke and Black Tartarian: the two best late, Downer's late Red and Sweet Montmorency. The two earliest and best PLUMS, Bradshaw's and Green Gage: the two latest and best, Jefferson and Coe's late Red. In giving these names, we should remark that there are many others equally deserving of the same rank. The Strawberry grape is a very good native variety, quite new, but well worth cultivation.

MILDEW ON GRAPES IN VINERIES.-M. C. Johnson.-Old vines are in no way more subject to mildew than young ones, so far as our experience goes and we believe this is the opinion of grape-growers generally. How far Mr. Kenrick's views are correct in relation to trailing on or near the ground, we have no knowledge, as we do not think the experiment has been tried here. We do not doubt ourselves, but that a trellis over an inclined plane paved with brick or stone would be highly advantageous and greatly promote ripening as well as check mildew, from the greater humidity which they would enjoy. In an account of a very successful mode of cultivation of the grape in houses without heat, which we gave in a previous volume, (IX, p. 86) the excellence of the fruit was in a great degree attributed to the paved floors, which were watered when they became heated by the sun, and thus gave off an abundance of moisture of a genial temperature. Probably paving in the open air would have a similar effect; and by watering induce a humidity which would check the mildew. We hope our correspondent will try this mode, and we should be glad to know the result. The objection of Mr. Johnson is a good one, viz:—that the flowers as well as fruit might suffer from the effects of heavy rains: to obviate this, the distance of the trellis from the pavement should be increased. In the vineyards of France, the vines are trained to stakes about three feet high, but we gathered very fine fruit within one FOOT of the ground-and the crop, so far as we observed, was exceedingly good-satisfactory results can only be arrived at by actual experiment.

PLANTS.-L. P. Hopkins.-As you invite questions from your subscribers, I propose the following:

1. Should Gloxinias and Gesneras be kept absolutely without water during the winter, and allowed to die down to the ground?

Yes. In the month of November, we place the pots underneath the stage, turning them upon their sides, where they remain till February, when they are again repotted and started into growth in a mild heat.

2. What is the proper mode of treating tuberous rooted geraniums?

We have not had much experience with this class: they should, however, be managed similarly to other tuberous rooted plants: keeping them rather dry in winter, and potting them in fresh soil in March, and placing them in the warmest part of the house until they are well established.

3. How should Fuchsias be treated after flowering? Should they be allowed to rest or encouraged to grow?

They should be allowed to rest. In December we place the plants under the stage, and only give them an occasional watering, when they are quite dry, till February or March; they are then shifted into new pots, rubbing off the loose soil, and either headed quite down to the ground or all the lateral branches cut off to within an inch or two of the main stem; they will then make fine flowering plants by the month of June.

4. How should Cape Jasmine be treated, to make it flower, and to prevent the leaves from turning yellow?

Keep the plants rather dry during winter, and in March bring them into a temperature of 75° or 80° with more moisture, which will start them at once into growth; by May they can be placed in the greenhouse, or even in June plunged in the open ground, and they will retain the verdure of their leaves the year round, and bloom abundantly. The soil should be leaf mould, peat and sand.

5. How can Fuchsia corymbyflòra be made to flower? I have several plants of it, some old ones, and some raised within the year from cuttingsthey make a luxuriant growth, but refuse to flower, though I have kept them almost withont water for two months at a time.

We have never seen this superb species in good condition in our gardens; but we have described many fine plants which we saw in Europe, though it is there generally considered a rather difficult plant to manage well; it is a most luxuriant grower, and the only way to bring it into bloom is to confine it to a moderate sized pot, and bend down the top of the shoot to make it throw out laterals, which soon form flower buds.

6. What is the easiest mode of propagating the Oleander?

Placing the cuttings in phials of water, in a temperature of 75° or 80°, until they emit roots, when they should be potted off into a light rich soil, composed of leaf mould, peat and sand.

Our correspondent is informed that, in our previous volumes, excellent articles have appeared on the culture of the Azalea, Gardenia, Camellia, Fuchsia, and, indeed, upon every popular plant.

RAISING GRAPE Vines from SEEDS.-A Subscriber.—I see no reason why we may not have as great variety of hardy grapes adapted to the climate, as apples, and propose to plant a quantity of seed from several different kinds. As you have kindly offered to devote a portion of your valuable Magazine for the purpose of answering inquiries,—will you please inform

me, through that medium, the best method of treating that seed. Loudon and other writers give us directions for planting other seed and for taking care of the young plants, but are silent about grape seedlings.

We are glad to find the culture of the grape, from seed, is attracting more attention; and we are happy to give all the information we possess to aid those who will make the attempt; convinced as we are, that it is to hybrids that we must look for varieties for out-door cultivation in our climate. Our experience is rather limited, but we have now some hundreds under way, a few of which we hope to see in fruit the present year. Our plan has been to sow the seeds in boxes in February or March, placing them in a greenhouse, if one is at hand, if not, in a hotbed, or even a frame; they will soon make their appearance above ground, and when two inches high, they should be potted off singly into small pots, and afterwards shifted, according to their vigor. The second year they are turned out into the open ground about the first of June, where they soon make vigorous shoots, and on the approach of winter are protected with a covering of coarse litter, or leaves. Their after treatment is the same as for vines raised from cuttings or layers. If A Subscriber will turn to our vol. IX, p. 373, he will find some capital directions on this head, from our correspondent, Mr. Camak of Georgia.

HORTICULTURAL MEMORANDA

FOR FEBRUARY.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

Grape Vines in the forcing house will now be setting their fruit, and will need much attention, being careful to keep up a good temperature, not too high at night, but regular and even. In the greenhouse and vinery, the eyes generally begin to swell about the twentieth of this month, unless the temperature is kept very low as soon as they begin to swell, the shoots should be loosened from their place in front, and tied loosely up to the trcllis, allowing the ends to hang down. In this way, they may remain for two weeks, when the eyes will all show, and they may then be made fast to the trellis: syringe lightly, every morning and evening, in good weather. Cuttings may now be put in, if there is a hotbed at hand, if vines are young wanted. Vines in pots may now be brought into the greenhouse, where they will soon start into growth, and produce good crops.

Peach Trees and Figs in pots may now be taken into the greenhouse or vinery, and will bring forward an early crop.

Scions of trees may still be cut and placed away as we directed last month. Orchards, where there is a great deal to do in the spring, may be pruned now, which will save time in the busy season of April and May.

FLOWER department.

Pelargoniums will now require more attention. All plants which are intended to bloom well in April and May should now be repotted, if it has not been done before: eight inch pots are sufficiently small for good-sized plants, and, if they are very large, they will require about eleven inch as soon as repotted, give them a good syringing, and, if they are attacked by the green fly, fumigate immediately. Train out the shoots carefully, and attend carefully to the watering: for further direction, we would refer to Mr. Beck's article in our last.

Roses will now be advancing rapidly, and such as appear stunted for pot room should be immediately shifted into a larger size : syringe occasionally, and fumigate to destroy the green fly.

Japan Lilies should now be repotted in the manner advised last month. Dahlias, if wanted for very early flowering, should now be potted and placed in the warmest part of the greenhouse.

Camellias will now be in full bloom: give them abundant supplies of water at the roots, and syringe occasionally overhead: pick off all decaying flowers, and attend to impregnation, if seeds are wanted.

Verbenas should now be repotted.

Victoria Stocks will now need a shift into larger pots.

Achimenes, Gloxinias, &c., started in pans, should now be potted off singly into small pots.

Schizanthuses should be now shifted into large-sized pots.

Calceolarias will require potting again.

Fuchsias should now be propagated from cuttings of the new wood, if young plants are wanted.

Gladiolus Gandavensis, and Floribundus should now be potted for early blooming.

Sparaxis and Ixias, now about to bloom, should be liberally watered.

Ten Week Stocks, and other sorts of tender annuals, may now be sown for producing plants to turn out early into the border.

Nemophilas should again be potted if very large and fine plants are wanted.

Heaths should be carefully attended to; giving good supplies of water, and an occasional syringing overhead.

Azaleas now begin to show their buds, and may have a greater supply of water.

Plants in Frames should be aired in fine weather.

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Hot Beds.-In gardens, where it is desirable to have early cucumbers or vegetables of any kind, hot beds should be put in operation; about the middle of the month is the time to begin; the beds will not then be in readiness to plant until near the end of the month.

Cucumbers should be planted in small pots, three seeds in each, and allowed to grow until they are hilled out next month.

Lettuce, Radish, Egg Plants, Marjorum, Tomato, Celery and other seeds. should be immediately sown in order to have early plants for placing out in the open ground as soon as the weather will admit.