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CHAPTER XXIII.

CONCLUSION.

IT has been my constant endeavour throughout the foregoing narrative, to give as true and faithful a picture, of the country and people of that portion of Morocco in which I resided, as I could. In doing so, however, I hope that nothing I have said may tend to prejudice intending travellers, against Tangier. Some little disagreeables and inconveniences are to be encountered there, no doubt; but they are nothing but what any person may easily overcome, and the counterbalancing advantages are great. The climate in general is delightful, bright and bracing, with no extremes of cold or heat. From about the beginning of May the sun becomes very powerful, necessitating the adoption of white or light coloured clothing, with white straw hats and puggarees for head gear. But the sea breezes always temper the heat, so that little or no inconvenience is felt from it indoors, and even without, quite thick materials-though light coloured-may be worn with comfort. On account of this equability of temperature, Tangier is becoming very favourably known as a resort for invalids, particularly for those affected by the various forms of chest complaints for which our

English winter climate is so unsuited.* Living is cheap, and the food, though not very good, is equally far from being bad, and probably much better than can be obtained in many expensive continental towns, frequented by English health-seekers. Amusements, properly so called, certainly are scarce, but there is plenty in the country and the people to interest and entertain all but lovers of mere conventional "pleasures," so called; and as there are always a number of English and Americans at the different hotels, most of whom are generally inclined to be friendly with those of their fellow creatures whom they may encounter in this uncivilized corner of the world, there is seldom lack of agreeable society and companionship.

The greatest deprivation however, in respect of amusement-though of course it only affected one portion of

Dr. Leared (Senior Physician to the Great Northern Hospital), bears valuable testimony to the advantages of Tangier as a residence for invalids, in an article in The Lancet of January 4th. The temperature in summer ranges, he says, "between 78° Fahr. and 82° Fahr., the latter being seldom exceeded. This continues till the autumn rains set in." Between the 15th and 23rd of September (inclusive), Dr. Leared made twenty-three observations at almost every hour of day and night, and found that the thermometer ranged "between 78° Fahr., and 72° Fahr., while the mean was 74-2° Fahr. During this time the weather had broken up, and on one day there was heavy rain. In winter the mean temperature is about 56° Fahr., and fires in the evening are acceptable."-Feb., 1873.

the visitors to Tangier-and apparently quite an unnecessary one, was occasioned by the disagreeable restrictions against shooting.

The country abounds with game of different kinds, and to lovers of sport would offer a never-failing source of recreation, did not some most ingeniously contrived game laws place an almost insurmountable barrier against its enjoyment. This I found to be a matter of continual and bitter complaint and animadversion among my countrymen in Tangier and Gibraltar; the feeling on the subject not being at all the less sore because the injury-as it is felt to be-is attributed, not to Moorish pride or prejudice, but to English exclusiveness and selfishness. Every person I spoke to on the subject gave the credit of these disagreeable arrangements to the English diplomatic representative in Tangier.

As I found the matter was one evidently deemed of paramount importance, and continually under discussion, the discussion being invariably, however, only a reiteration of the grievances of the injured parties, with each one's special commentary on the supposed author of them, there being no single voice ever to say a word in defence of the objectionable measures or their originator,-I took some pains to get at a clear knowledge of the exact nature of these arrangements, and their mode of operation. Not that it was a matter of any personal interest, whatsoever, to me; but find

ing that it was one of such extreme interest to my countrymen in that part of the world, I concluded that it might also possess some for those at home, particularly for any contemplating a sojourn in Gibraltar or Tangier; and that an exact and accurate explanation of its details would be acceptable in this work.

The following information I obtained from the most trustworthy sources.

Some few years ago, the Sultan of Morocco granted to the representatives of foreign powers, resident in Tangier, the privilege of framing all regulations for the protection of game within four leagues of the town.. The foreign representatives then framed a code of regulations, by which they virtually retained the shooting altogether to themselves.

One of the rules so made, was, that no visitor to Tangier should shoot at all, within the four league radius; and that any one who offended against this law would render himself liable to a fine and confiscation of his gun.

The above will not appear a very harsh or unjust restriction. No ardent sportsman would mind having to walk or ride four leagues for game, if secure of a plentiful "bag" at the end. Nor would any gentleman wish to deny the diplomatic representatives of his own, or any other country, such a privilege as that of the right to frame game regulations, and enforce their observance ; which might be so done as to be a clear

advantage to every one; and is suitable to the responsibility of their official positions. Nor would any one grudge them the slight additional privilege of retaining a certain small area to themselves, the right to which, if exercised with courtesy and discretion, few would be found desirous to infringe.

But these, seemingly equitable arrangements, assume quite another aspect when some further regulations, associated with them, are considered.

As there is no native law, or consular regulation, by which a foreigner is prohibited from carrying a gun anywhere, nothing then would appear easier, than for any sportsman to take his gun beyond the preserved territory, and there shoot as much game with it as he chose, or could get.

But the foreign representatives have made the discovery, that by their treaties with Morocco, the importation of "munition of war" is forbidden, and the British minister has joined with his diplomatic colleagues in inducing the Moorish authorities to consider fowling-pieces as coming under that category; and consequently to refuse their admission into the country.

Before these regulations were made, Morocco was, as may be supposed, largely used as a sporting ground by the garrison of Gibraltar. When, however, Englishmen found that their guns were stopped, on the plea that they were warlike arms; they naturally applied to their consul in Tangier to request that the

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