abominable disturbances, which seemed to form SO essential a part of this religious performance.

Now it was all over, and the Feast began. This feast, the Lesser Beiram, is called in Morocco, El Aid Srare, "the Little Feast," but in the East, Aid al Fetr, "the Feast of breaking the Fast."

The Fast of Ramadan had nearly given me enough of Moorish celebrations; still, not wishing to miss anything that was to be seen, I sallied forth next morning at seven, to witness the ceremonials attendant on the commencement of the feast.

I found the streets crowded with people, all in their best clothes. Every one was hurrying in one direction, to the Bab-al-Sok.

Outside in the Soko there was drawn up, in anything but military array, an army, which by its diversity of physique and costume, reminded me forcibly of Falstaff's levies. These were assembled to salute the Bashaw on his way to the place of public prayer; where he was to join with his subjects in returning thanks for the conclusion of the month of abstinence they had undergone. The army, which consisted of some five or six hundred men, had "rallied round" some flags, which looked remarkably like portions of old moreen window curtains, of various hues. These magnificent standards were held by three ensigns, clothed in a simple uniform, consisting of a blanket and a skewer. The captains vainly endeavoured to get their companies into something like a line,

but wearied at last with their fruitless efforts, gave the thing up as a bad job, and permitted the men to lounge at ease as they liked.

At last the firing of guns and the sound of drums and trumpets announced the departure of the Bashaw from the citadel, and before long the procession began to emerge from the Bab-al-Sok.

First came a number of priests, clad in white gelabs and carrying a white flag. These were followed by the great Moorish Saint, the Sharif of Wazan, chief of the fanatic set of Muley Tayeb, the owner of vast territories, and a more powerful man in Morocco than the Sultan himself, owing to the deep reverence with which he is regarded by the people. He is a coarse, sensual, unprepossessing-looking fellow; and appeared to regard the people, any man of whom would have gladly laid down his life for him, as so much dust beneath his feet. Every one pressed round him, and happy were those who got near enough to kiss his dress or his stirrup; but not by a word, a sign, or a look, did he acknowledge the homage paid him, or show that he was aware of any presence but his own.

After him came a squadron of cavalry in every variety of the brilliant and picturesque costumes in which this portion of the army is always clothed. All were armed with the long Moorish gun. Next came four standards, one green, one yellow, and two red, the latter being the national colour; and lastly, mounted on a white horse,

the Bashaw himself. He was immediately saluted with loud shouts and cries of "Sidi," or lord. He stopped, and made a short speech, to the effect that he was proud to command so fine and brave an army, and then passed on to the place of prayer, which is situated on a hill above the market-place, and overlooks the town and Straits.

It consists of a long whitewashed wall, pierced with horseshoe headed windows looking towards Mecca. In the centre of the wall is a low tower, having a platform on the top, and a small niche below. The ground in front of the wall had been covered with mats, I suppose to protect the worshippers from the rheumatic consequences of kneeling on the bare ground.

There was of course a general rush of sight-seers from the market-place to the hill when the procession had passed; but by taking a judicious "short cut," I contrived to arrive in time to obtain a good standing place for viewing the sight. The priests were the first on the ground, and took up their position on the top of the tower, where they began howling after the custom of their class in this country, and performing antics of the most advanced description.

The Sharif of Wazan occupied the central niche, and behind him were the Bashaw and his suite; all had dismounted from their horses, and, with as many people as could crowd into the niche, knelt down. They then commenced to smite their heads on the ground,

and otherwise knock themselves about, and gesticulate with all their might. I hadn't thought it possible that Moors could exert themselves so much, but there is nothing like religious zeal. They seemed to give their whole minds to the performance. Meanwhile the priests on the tower kept up their gymnastic operations.

At length, when priests and laity were alike dead beat from these active exertions of piety, the assembly broke up. All shook hands after the fashion of a quakers' meeting, and then returned to their homes and their breakfasts; for which latter their eccentric and severe exertions must have given them tolerable appetites.

CHAPTER XIII.

WEDDINGS IN TANGIER.

OCCASIONALLY in the evenings when Ramadan was not going on, I was startled by the sounds of gun firing accompanied by music of a particularly doleful nature, and a series of shrill wailing cries, that seemed to betoken the occurrence of some event of a particularly startling and grievous nature.

On

The first time I heard it I thought it was a rebellion, and was much disturbed in my mind, not knowing how it might fare with strangers and unbelievers on such occasions; but finding that nothing particular occurred, I concluded it was only a murder or a funeral. inquiry, however, I ascertained that these startling and melancholy sounds only betokened that a wedding was taking place. I inquired if a wedding were considered an occasion of mourning and lamentation; but was informed that, on the contrary, it was considered a subject of much rejoicing.

This somewhat excited my curiosity, and hearing one evening that a wedding was going on, I sallied forth with Selam and the lantern to see the procession. of the bride to her husband's house, which is the only public ceremonial attending these events in Morocco.