by her anxiety to serve her fellow-creatures. For though she frequently assured me that she was "too generous; as she was wont to say, with reference to her altercations with Selam, that she was "too quiet" and "too good tempered," I always felt that the worthy woman accused herself of these weaknesses most unjustly.

I hope I have succeeded, in giving my readers, some insight into the domestic conditions under which I resided at Tangier. I must explain however, that the United National is by no means the principal hotel in the place. There are three or four others; two of them, at least, accommodating a far larger number of visitors, and managed much more according to ordinary hotel system. I stayed at one of these-the Hôtel de France-for a brief period during the latter part of my residence in Tangier, and found it exceedingly comfortable in every respect. It is kept, too, by a very respectable married. couple, who have a family of well educated and well conducted boys and girls, the elder of whom assist their parents in attending to the comfort of their visitors. This, in itself, offers a recommendation in its favour to English people, whose ideas on some questions of domestic morality have not yet become assimilated to those of other countries. Unfortunately, when I went there, the season was far advanced, and the house was in consequence very full. I was only able to obtain a very small bedroom; when, the weather becoming exceed

ingly warm, I was compelled, though with regret, to return to my former quarters.*

Still, notwithstanding all its little peculiarities of structure and management, the United National undoubtedly offers many advantages. Some of the rooms have an excellent view of the sea, all are airy, and, even the smallest, sufficiently large for comfort and convenience. The beds are good and exceedingly clean, as is indeed, with one or two trifling exceptions, such as the sofa I have mentioned, the whole house. The cuisine, under the superintendence of Selam, is very good, considering the inferiority of most of the materials to be had in Tangier. The flat roof, or terrace as it is called, is larger and better than in most of the houses, and forms an excellent promenade and lounging place, commanding as it does a beautiful and extensive view of the town and the Straits.

*February, 1873.-The Hôtel de France still continues under the same management, but I hear has been much enlarged and improved since the time of my visit.

CHAPTER X.

RELIGION, EDUCATION, FOOD, ETC.

THE weather, for at least a fortnight, continued so bad that walking, and even riding, had to be confined altogether to the town and the sands. Most days, however, there was a tolerably clear hour or two, which I employed in exploring the town; the streets of which are really cleaner in wet weather than in dry, as, being all on a slope, violent rains wash them down.

I have already attempted to convey an impression of the general aspect of Tangier, as it appeared to me on my first view of it. I will now enter upon some particulars, gathered during my later and closer observations.

There are five or six mosques in Tangier. Two of these are of considerable size. All form picturesque objects, ornamented as they are, externally, with a mosaic of coloured tiles, arranged in geometrical patterns; with their gracefully arched doorways, and their tall tapering minarets pointing to the skies. A small gallery runs round the minarets, near the summit; from which at stated hours the Muezzin calls the Faithful to prayer. He is protected from view, and from danger of falling off as he runs round, by a sort of battlement surrounding the gallery, through

the embrasures of which, however, his fez is occasionally visible, to the curious unbelievers, who take the trouble to look up. Only a very limited view of the interiors of the mosques can be seen by the passers-by, through the open doorways, high screens being jealously placed around the entrance within. No polluting foot of Christian or Hebrew is ever permitted to cross the sacred threshold; the conservative Mohammedans of Tangier, in this respect, exceeding in religious exclusiveness their brethren of Algeria, and I believe of Turkey and India. Neither is any woman of their own faith granted admittance, except on some one particular religious festival, of rare occurrence, the name of which, though I have heard, I forget.

There are three or four synagogues. They are all exceedingly dirty and mean-looking in their outward aspect. This is probably due to the great jealousy of the Moors of any outward religious display on the part of the Jews; whom, and their creed alike, the Moslems detest. The synagogues are not restricted in admittance, followers of other creeds, if they desire it, having access. Women of the denomination, however, do not attend the services, except upon the occasion of certain festivals. This would seem to be due to the surrounding influence of Mohammedanism; which, in this and in other matters, seems to have much influenced the habits and customs of the Jews.

The services of the Catholic Church, for the Spanish -the most numerous of course, and other Catholic residents, are held at the Spanish Legation. There are some monks of the Franciscan order established at Tangier, to minister to the spiritual necessities of the members of the Romish Church resident there; and I understand that they are exceedingly active and zealous in the performance of their duties. I may add that

they do not, however, press the tenets of their religion upon those who differ from them; an example well worthy of imitation. There are very few Protestant residents in Tangier, the number being limited to four or five families, including those of the English Minister Plenipotentiary, and Consul. Now and then there may be an English family or two, from Gibraltar, staying in Tangier for a few months; and there are always some English and American visitors, likely to be Protestants, at the hotels. There is no consecrated place of Protestant worship; nor was there, until lately, a resident clergyman; some time after my arrival, however, one took up his abode there. Up to that time there was only an occasional service, when some Protestant clergyman, Churchman or Dissenter, came to the place for a visit; and his talents, and right to exercise the sacred functions of his calling, were secured for the purpose. On these occasions the service was held either in the dining-room of the principal hotel, or in that at the English legation. As the stray clergyman would