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“Mrima” landward from the southern wooded rock, foam over the jagged river - plain. The people assured incline ; and at 5 P.M., passing two us that the rolling surface above bridges, we entered Msiky Mguru, a supports an abundant population of Wazegura village distant twelve miles Washenzy, clients and serfs to Sultan from Kohoday. It is a cluster of Kimwere's clan.

hay-cock huts, touching one another, We then entered upon cultivated built upon an island formed by divers ground, which seemed a garden after rapid and roaring branches of the the red waste below Tongway. Cocos river. The headman was sick, but and tall trees concealed the stream, we found a hospitable reception. which, above its junction with the Uninitiated in the African secret of Luangua, is a mere mountain-torrent, strewing ashes round the feet of the roaring down a rocky tortuous bed, Kitandah or Cartel,' although esand forming green-tufted islets, which chewing the dirty smoky huts, we are favourite sites for settlements. spent our night with ants, and other Our guides presently took leave, pre- little murderers of sleep which shall texting a blood-feud with the neigh- be nameless. Our hosts expressed bouring villages. The people, as we great alarm about the Masai. "It was passed by, flocked over their rude justified by the sequel. Scarcely had bridges, a floor of narrow planks laid we left the country when a plunderhorizontally upon rough coco-piers, ing party of wild spearmen attacked forked upright, planted a few feet two neighbouring villages, slaughterapart, parapeted with rough basket- ed the hapless cultivators, and with work, and sometimes supplied with pillage and pollage drove off the knotty fibrous creepers to stay the cows in triumph. They watched travellers’ steps. These the number with astonishment the magical proand daring of the alligators render cess of taking an altitude of Canopus, necessary. Artless constructions, they and were anxious to do business in are the puentes de cimbra of Chili, and female slaves, honey, goats, and sheep. much resemble the bridges of inner Some of the girls were rather comeDevonshire during the days of our ly : they did not show the least fear grandfathers. Cows, goats, and long- or shame. tailed sheep clustered upon the plains. At sunrise on the next morning Halting for the noon under a spread- we resumed our march, following the ing tamarind, we were surrounded by left bank of the river, which is here crowds, who feasted their eyes upon called Kirna. For about three miles us for hours together. They were un- it is a broad line of flat boulders, armed, dressed in hides, spoke the thicket, sedge, and grass, with divers Kizegura dialect,which differs greatly trickling rivulets between. At the from Kisawahili, and appeared rather Maurwi village, the branches anastotimid than dangerous. The Sultan moze, forming a deep and strong but of the Zafura village, near which we navigable stream, about thirty yards reposed, stalked about, spear in hand, broad, and hedged with masses of vegehighly offended by our not entering tation. Thence we turned northward, his hut; and some Sawahilis in red over rolling red clay, here cultivated, caps looked daggers at the white there a thorny jungle, in the direction strangers. We tried to hire extra of Tamota, another mural precipice porters ; but having no merikan and bluff headland in the hill curtain (domestics), and no beads, we notably of Usumbara. The paths were crowdfailed.

ed with a hide-clad and grass-kilted Presently black Nimbi capped the race, chiefly women and small girls, hill-tops, cooling the fierce Simum, who, by the by, displayed very preand low thunders warned us forward. cocious developments, leading chilResuming our march at 3.30 P.M., we dren each with a button of hair crossed a dry finmara, trending to- left upon its scraped crown. The wards the Lufu; traversed a hill-spur adults, laden with manive, holcus, of rolling and thorny red ground, to and maize, poultry, sugar-cane, and avoid a deep bend in the stream; waterpots with bunches of leaves to passed a place where the divided prevent splashing, with pumpkins waters, apparently issuing from a and plantains—here their own land

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begins-were bound for a Golio, or ed us to halt. We attributed this market held in an open plain. None annoyance to Wazira, who was forthevinced fear of a white face; but when with visited with a general wigging. our Belochies asked the fair how It is, however, partly the custom of they would like us for husbands, the country. Man here claims a right they simply replied, “Not at all." to hear news, the pabulum which his The men chip their teeth to points, soul loves, from his neighbour. To and, as in Usumbara, punch out in coin the most improbable nonsense, childhood one incisor of the lower to be told lies, and to retail lies, are jaw : a piece of dried rush or sugar- the mental luxuries of idle men, cane distends the ear-lobe to an un- equally the primum mobile of a sightly size. All carried bows and Crimean “shave” and of an East

Some shouldered such hoes African palaver. But the impending and hatchets as English children use rain sharpened our tempers; we upon the sands : here bounteous laughed in the faces of our angry exearth, fertilised by the rains of postulators, and, bidding them stop heaven, requires the mere scratching us if they could, pursued our road. of a man's nails. Others led stunted Presently ascending a hill, and pariah dogs adorned with leather turning abruptly to the north-east, collars : they are prime favourites we found ourselves opposite, and with the savages, who hold a stew of about ten miles distant from, a tall puppies, as amongst us in the days of azure curtain, the mountains of Fuga. Charles' the Second, a dish fit for Below, the plain was populous with a monarch. In West Africa also the hay-cock villages. Tall® tamarinds, meat is admired, and some mission. the large-leaved plantain, and the aries have described it as “very parasol-shaped papaw, grew wild sweet.” The salutations of these amongst the thorny trees. Water savages provoked the wrath of Seedy stood in black pools, and around it Bombay. Acquaintances stood afar waved luxuriant sugar-canes. In a off and nosed forth hem and hum few minutes every mouth in the till they relieved their minds. None, party was tearing and chewing at a even the women, refused to greet us; long pole. This cane is of the edible and at times Yambo, “the state !" kind: the officinal varieties are too was uttered simultaneously by a luscious, cloying, and bilious, to be score of sable lips.

sucked with impunity by civilised Having duly stared and been stared After walking that day sixat, we unloaded for rest at 9.30 A.M. teen miles, at about 4 P.M. a violent under a spreading tree, near the large storm of thunder, lightning, and raw double-fenced village of Paslunga south-west wind, which caused the belonging to one of Sultan Kim- thermometer to fall many degrees, were's multitudinous sons. Again and the slaves to shudder and whimclouds obscured the air, and thunder per, drove us back into the Bandany growled over the near hills. It be- or Palaver-house of a large village. came evident that the wet season was It consisted only of a thatch roof fast approaching

propped by rough uprights. The inThe coolness of the air drew cries side was half-mud half-mould ; the of “Safar! Safar!”-let us march ! only furniture stone slabs, used as from the Belochies. At 1.20 P.M. hones; and hollowed logs, once beewe resumed our way, and presently hives and now seats.

The place passed on the left hand a tank of swarmed with flies and mosquitos. mire and water, thinly sprinkled with We lighted fires to keep off fevers. paddy-birds, sandpipes, and Egyptian Our Belochies, after the usual wrangle geese, exceedingly wild. Hornbills about rations, waxed melancholy, screamed upon the neighbouring shook their heads, and declared that trees, and on the mud my companion the Kusy, or wet monsoon, had set in. shot a specimen of the gorgeous Sunday the 15th of February dawncrested crane, whose back-feathers ed with one of those steady little would have made fine bonnets. After cataclysms, which, to be seen advanan hour's march we skirted a village, tageously, must be seen near the Line. where the people peremptorily order. At 11 A.M. weary of the steaming



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Bandany, our men, loaded, and in a dwarf coco, and bitter oranges minlucid interval, set out towards the gled pleasant scent with herbs not unFuga hills. As we approached them, like mint and sage. Below, half veiled the rain shrank to a spitting, gradu- by rank steams, lay the yellow Nika ally ceased, and was replaced by that or Wazegura wilderness, traversed reeking fetid sepulchral heat which by a serpentine of trees denoting the travellers in the tropics know and course of the Mkomafi affluent. Three fear. The path lay over the usual cones, the “Mbara Hills," distant red clay ; crossed low ground, where about eight miles, crowned the desert. trees decayed in stagnant water, and Far beyond we could see the wellspanned a cultivated black plain at wooded line of the Lufu river, and the foot of the mountains, with a from it to the walls of the southern vista of far blue hill on the right. and western horizon stretched a We rested a few minutes before at- uniform purple plain. tempting the steep incline before us. We were startled from rest by a The slippery way had wearied our prodigious hubbub. The three fresh slaves, though aided by three porters porters positively refused to rise unhired that morning ; and the sun, less a certain number of cloths were struggling through vapours, was still sent forward to propitiate the maghot enough to overpower the whole nates of Fuga. This was easily party.

traced to Wazira, who received a AČ 1 P.M. we proceeded brea: hint that such trifling might be the pass. The path began, gently dangerous. He had been lecturing rising over decayed foliage, amongst us all that morning upon the serious groves of coarse bananas, whose

nature of our undertaking. Sultan leaves of satiny lustre, shredded by Kimwere was a potent monarch--not the winds, hid large bunches of green

a Momba. His ministers and fruit. The musa is probably an councillors would, unless well paid, aboriginal of East Africa : it grows, avert from us their countenances I am told, almost spontaneously we must enter with a discharge of upon the shores of the far inner musketry to awe the people, and by lakes. Here the fruit, which, matur- all means do as we are bid. The ing rapidly, affords a perennial sup- Belochies smiled contempt, and, pullply, is the staff of savage life. As ing up the porters, loaded them, deaf usual when men are compelled to to remonstrance. utilise a single object, they apply Resuming our march after a short the plantain to various purposes. halt, we climbed rather than walked, Even the leaves are converted into with hearts beating from such unspoons, plates, and even bottles. They usual exercise, up the deep zigzag of are also made into thatch, fuel, and a torrent. Villages then began to a substitute for wrapping-papers. appear perched like eyries upon the Never transplanted, and the rota- hill-tops, and the people gathered to tion of crops being unknown, this watch our approach. At 4 P.M. we banana has now degenerated. found ourselves upon the summit of

Issuing from the dripping canopy, a ridge. The Belochies begged us we followed a steep goat-track, ford- to taste the water of a spring hard ed a crystal burn, and having reached by. It was icy cold, with a perceptthe midway, sat down to enjoy the ible chalybeate flavour, sparkled in rarified air, and to use the compass the cup, and had dyed its head with and spyglass. The view before us rust. East Africa is a "land whose was extensive, if not beautiful. Un- stones are iron," and the people deder our feet the mountains fell in clare that they have dug brass. rugged folds, clothed with plantain We now stood upon the mountains, fields, wild mulberries, custard apples, but we found no table-land. The and stately trees, whose lustrous scenery reminded my companion of green glittered against the ochreous Almnah, one of the Blue mountains ground. The salsa parilla vine hung in Southern India. Thefe were the in clusters from the supporting limbs same rounded cones, tapestried with of the tamarind, the toddy palm velvety grass, and ribboned with raised its fantastic arms over the paths of red clav; the same Sholahs -Conclusion. (May, or gloomy forest-patches clothing the had entered the country vid the slopes; the same emerald swamps, hostile Wazegura? Secundo, What through which transparant runnels time might be appointed by his continually trickle, and little torrents majesty's Mganga, or medicine-man, and rocky linns. This granite and for the ceremony. Sharp-witted Hamsandstone heap has, however, a dan at once declared us to be Eurodouble aspect, the northern and pean wizards, and waganga of peeastern slopes are bluff and barren, culiar power over the moon and whilst the southern and western stars, the wind and rain. Away ran abound in luxuriant vegetation. The the ministers to report the wonder. reeking plains westward are well Whilst they are absent, I will briefly wooded. We were shown the" water explain what a Mganga is. of Masinde," a long narrow tank, The Mganga, who is called by the upon whose banks elephants are Arabs Tabib, or doctor, and by us said to exist. North-westward the priest, physician, divine, magician, mountains rise apparently higher and medicine - man, combines, as and steeper, till about ten miles these translations show, priestly with further west, where, capped with medical functions. He may be concloud-heaps, the giant flanks of Mu- sidered the embryo of a sacerdotal kumbara bound the view. We stood order amongst the embryo commuabout four thousand feet above the nities of savage tribes. Siberia has sea-level, distant thirty-seven miles Shamans, and Greenland Angekoks, from the coast, and seventy-four or Guiana her Peïmans, and the North seventy-five along the winding river. Americans their mystery-men; the There is a short cut from Kohoday Galla believes in his Kaleshah, the across the mountains ; but the route Kru Republic in her Deyabos ; the was then waterless, and the heat West African negro in his Grugru or would have disabled our Belochies. Fetiss seers, and the Cape Kaffirs in

After another three - mile walk witch doctors, the great originators along the hill flanks, we turned a of all our troubles. Rain-charming corner and suddenly sighted, upon is the popular belief of Africa, from the opposite summit of a grassy cone, Zanzibar to the Kru coast. It is not an unfenced heap of hay-cock huts confined to these barbarous lands. - Fuga. As we drew near, our In Ireland, the owner of a four-leaved Belochies formed up and fired a shamrock can cause or stop showers; volley, which brought the hind and and the Fins on board our ships deal his wife, and his whole meine, out with the clerk of the weather

for fair of the settlement. This being one

wind. The Indian Yogi, the Bayragi, of the cities where ingress is now

and the Sita Rami have similar forbidden to strangers, we were led powers. I heard of a man at Poreby Wazira through timid crowds that bunder, who, when torrents of rain shrank back as we approached, round injured the crops, was threatened by and below the cone to four tattered his Rajah with a "cotton coat;" that huts, which superstition assigns as is to say, a padded poncho, well oiled the travellers bungalow.” Even and greased, girt closely round him, the son and heir of great Kimwere and set on fire. In East Africa, must abide here till the lucky hour from the Simuli country southwards, admits him to the presence and the the rains which appear so wearisome imperial city. The cold rain and to the traveller are a boon to the sharp rarified air rendering any savage, who, during droughts, sees shelter acceptable, we cleared the his children and cattle perish of huts of sheep and goats, housed our hunger and thirst. The demand valuables, and sent Seedy Bombay produces a supply of intellectuals, to the Sultan, requesting the honour who, for the consideration of idle of an interview.

life, abundant respect, and food withBefore dark appeared three bare- out toil, boldly assert command over headed mdue, or ministers," who the clouds. It is easy to predict in long palaver declared that council rain in these regions. The incantamust squat upon two knotty points, tion is delayed till mists gather upon --Primo, Why and wherefore we the mountain-tops, and the fetiss is finished as the shower begins to fall. Sultan Kimwere half rose from his Success brings both solid pudding cot as we entered, and motioned us and empty praise ; failure, the trifling to sit upon dwarf stools before him. inconvenience of changing air. He was an old, old man, emaciated

The Mganga has various other by sickness. His head was shaved, duties. He must sprinkle the his face beardless, and wrinkled like stranger with the blood of sheep and a grandam's; his eyes were red, his medicines, the aspersory being a jaws disfurnished, and his hands and cow's tail. Upon the departing feet were stained with leprous spots. guest he gently spits, bidding him The royal dress was a Surat cap, go in God's peace. During sickness much the worse for wear, and a loinhe must dispose of the ghost or wrap as tattered. He was covered haunting fiend. He marks ivory with a doubled cotton-cloth, and he magically, to insure its reaching the rested upon a Persian rug, apparently coast in safety. If the Sultan loses coeval with himself. The hut aphealth, he fixes upon the bewitcher; peared that of a simple cultivator, and unless duly fee'd, shoves into his but it was redolent of dignitaries, mouth a red-hot hatchet, which has some fanning the Sultan, others chatno power to burn innocence. The ting, and all holding long-stemmed instrument of his craft is a bundle pipes with small ebony bowls. Our of small sticks. Thrown upon the errand was inquired, and we were ground, they form the divining figures; welcomed to Fuga. As none could hence the Arabs translate Uganga, read the Sazzid of Zanzibar's let“the art,” by Raml or Geomancy. ter, I was obliged to act secretary. Most of these men are open to the The Centagenarian had heard of our persuasions of cloth and beads. One scrutinising stars, stones, and trees saw the spirit of a white-face sitting he directed us at once to compound in a chair brought as a present to a draught which would restore him his chief, and broadly insinuated that to health, strength, and youth. I none but the wise deserved such replied that our drugs had been left chair. But let not the reader sup- at Pangany; He signified that we pose that all are pure impostors; might wander about the hills and like supernaturalists in general, they seek the plants required. After half are half deceived and half deceivers. hour's conversation, Hamdan Like the most of mankind, they being interpreter, we were dismissed are partly fools and partly knaves. with a renewal of welcome. On our There is, indeed, no folly conceiv- return to the hovels, the present was able by the mind of man in which forwarded to the Sultan with the man has not firmly and piously be- usual ceremony: We found awaiting lieved. And when man lays down us a fine bullock, a basketful of life in testimony to his belief, the act sima-young Indian corn pounded rather argues the obstinacy of the and boiled to a thick hard paste ; martyr than proves the truth of his and balls of unripe bananas, peeled tenets.

and mashed up with sour milk. Our At 6 P.M. the ministers ran back Belochies instantly addressed themand summoned us to the “ Palace.” selves to the making of beef, which They led the way through rain and they ate with such a will, that unmist to a clump of the usual huts, pleasant symptoms presently declared half hidden by trees, and overspread- themelves in camp. We had covered ing a little eminence opposite to and that day ten miles-equal, perhaps, below Fuga. We were allowed but to thirty in a temperate climate. three Belochies as a tail. Their match- The angry blast, the groaning trees, locks were taken away, and a de- and the lashing rain, heard from mand was made for our swords, within a warm hut, affected us which of course we insisted upon pleasurably. ,,We slept the sweet retaining

sleep of travellers.



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