desired to avoid the trouble of keeping things bright may be preferable.

Broiling is an excellent method of cooking all small things which do not require to be exposed long enough to the fire to harden the surface. Few things surpass a well-broiled steak or mutton chop, and the only art required to serve either in perfection is to turn frequently over a clear fire. A very useful addition to the closed range is a small standard let into a square hole at the back and pierced at regular distances for a gridiron specially adapted to it, so that the height can be most conveniently regulated. Thus things which require to be cooked rapidly at first can be placed on the gridiron either over the fire or in hole number four of the standard, it can then be raised and the cooking finished by changing the gridiron to number one or two hole, as be.

the case may

Great are the virtues and resources of the frying-pan; by its aid alone a superb dinner might be served. Yet vices, not its own, are often attributed to it. Meat, some say, is hardened in the process of frying, and one medical writer gravely says, 'frying is the least eligible mode of cookery, on account of the animal fat, butter, or oil which are necessarily used in this process.' Now when frying is properly conducted the fat in which things are fried no more enters into the substance of them than the water does into those which are boiled. It merely acts as

a vehicle for conveying heat, and if of a proper temperature (about 350) will never make anything greasy. Clarified 'pot top' is the best of all fat for frying, and clarified dripping answers well. A mixture of lard and clarified beef-suet can be used, failing these. In point of fact, things properly fried are not only very delicious, but as wholesome as when boiled or roasted. The great secret of frying well is to have plenty of boiling fat, and to immerse in it the article to be fried. A wire basket is most useful, as it ensures immersion and enables the cook thoroughly to drain away all fat. It is to be regretted that we have no English word which properly translates the French word sauté as applied in cookery, because the distinction between frying as just described in sufficient boiling fat to immerse, and tossing or lightly frying in a little butter, would then be better understood.

pan

It is not always convenient or necessary to use a stewhalf full of fat, and such small and delicate things as sweatbreads, brains, kidneys, and mutton cutlets are better sautés in a little butter. Any other kind of fat should be cautiously used to sauté, as it cannot be drained away as in frying, and will therefore impart its flavour to the article under treatment.

A word must be said in favour of macaroni, an article of diet somewhat neglected in England. When we remember that it is the principal food of a continental nation we cannot but feel surprised that it has had no popularity

with us. It is indeed only known to many people as a rich and indigestible dish with a tough covering of toasted cheese, and to others as a very insipid accompaniment to soup. Like many other simple things, potatoes and rice for instance, macaroni requires to be cooked with care and attention, and when these are bestowed it is not only delicious but nourishing. Excellent macaroni can be procured for fivepence a pound, and the best for sevenpence. An ounce is a liberal allowance for each person, whether as a sweet or savoury dish; thus a good nourishing accessory to a dinner may be served at a halfpenny per head, which includes the cost of gravy, butter, or sugar and spices. Macaroni is not dearer in London than potatoes, and contains more nourishment in a smaller compass. It can be dressed in an endless variety of ways, for which a number of good recipes are given at the end of the book, and it is hoped macaroni may soon become as popular with all classes of the community as it deserves to be.

It is to be regretted that the use of Hors d'œuvres, even at our small family repasts, is so little understood. Many little delicacies of this kind are inexpensive, and often serve to stimulate the jaded appetite, and even when that is not necessary give variety to a meal and cause it to afford a satisfaction wnich is not without service to the digestive organs.

A few prawns or shrimps, a dressed cucumber or salad

with a minced anchovy, a mayonnaise of any kind of cold fish, a salad of cold vegetables with hard-boiled eggs, anchovy or caviar canapes, toast spread with potted meat or fish, grated tongue, or potted cheese may be used with advantage, besides a host of other excellent things to be obtained at good Italian warehouses.

Next in importance to cooking a dinner comes serving it properly. No matter how well the cook may have seasoned her dishes, if they are sent up cold, or with unwarmed plates, they are more than half spoiled, and no matter how expensive the feast, it cannot be enjoyed unless everything on the table is of spotless cleanliness. This principle, which must guide the service, will be the same whether the means of the entertainer are large or small.

The tablecloth must be of good rich damask, fine, smooth and glossy. A coarse cloth cannot be made to look well, and will detract from the appearance of everything put upon it. The table should always be ornamented with fresh flowers, or, when these are not to be had, green leaves with a few bright berries or evergreens and everlasting flowers may be very tastefully arranged. If possible, one of the wine-glasses should be coloured, red or green for hock or light wine, the other or others, as the case may be, of pure crystal. It is within the power of most people to furnish their tables with the elegant clear glass now in fashion. That having a small engraved star is particularly beautiful, and it is well if water-bottles, decanters,

tumblers and wine-glasses can all be used en suite. A water-bottle should be placed between every two persons, or if the party is small, at the four corners of the table. The same rule should be followed with salt-cellars and cruets. Unless the mistress has clever and trustworthy servants, she should herself see that the salt is fine and good, that the cruets are all filled and in order, especially that the anchovy sauce has not become encrusted round the neck of the bottle, and that the mustard-pot has been recently replenished. Table napkins should be as fine and large as can be afforded, and be neatly folded, so as to enclose a piece of light bread or French dinner roll. It is proper to have bread or roll of the day's baking, but staler should always be at hand for those who prefer it. It is as well to follow the old fashion, and especially in the case of having but limited attendance, of laying as many knives, forks and spoons as may be required—thus, a table-spoon for soup, fish knife and fork, large knife and fork, or two, dessert-spoon and fork for sweets, knife for cheese.

The dinner à la Russe is an elegant mode of service for those who have a skilful carver and plenty of waiters, but should never be attempted under other conditions. A hostess is bound to see that her guests are well and plentifully served, and this first rule of hospitality will best be insured if she herself undertake the duties of the table. In the case of small friendly parties, it is not desirable to