amongst the most philosophic and enlightened | partake of the Christmas gaieties of Guatipeople, dabbling in republicanism has always mala. proved a dangerous amusement. When men On the 5th of January, 1840, our author but just removed from barbarism, and who set out with the intention of going to San are degraded and oppressed by popish bigotry Salvador, which was formerly, and still and superstition in their worst and most reclaimed to be, the capital of the confederavolting forms, attempt to do so, the experiment is nothing short of madness. We will not dwell on those parts of Mr. Stephens's work which are devoted to political events; they are detailed concisely and clearly, and with his accustomed vigour of description: we will also pass over, as lightly as he himself does, all his diplomatic doubts, difficulties, and annoyances. The tone in which he jests on his fruitless search for a government before which he could represent his masters, is judiciously adopted, as it disarms the ridicule which might otherwise have attached to his official failure; and indeed, as we have before remarked, we are inclined to believe that as long as volcanic mountains and ruined cities were within his reach, his political cares sat very lightly upon him. tion; or rather to Cojutepeque, to which place the seat of government had lately been transferred, on account of the earthquakes at San Salvador. The disturbed state of the country, and the jealousies of the contending factions, rendered it advisable that he should go by sea; and he therefore a second time proceeded to Istapa, to which place Mr. Catherwood accompanied him; and thence, after suffering severely from ague and fever, the effect of the almost pestilential climate, he went on to Zonzonate. There, as he facetiously expresses it, he stumbled upon the government he was in chase of in the person of Don Diego Vigil, the vice-president of the republic.' The information he received from this gentleman induced him to give up his intention of visiting San Salvador for the present, and he determined to proceed by sea to Costa Rica, the southernmost division of the confederacy, the state of his health rendering a sea voyage desirable; and thence to return by land and explore the line of the projected canal between the Atlantic and Pacific by the Lake of Nicaragua. In preference to all such matter, we shall take our readers as rapidly as we can to the next scene of his antiquarian labours; though there are some passages of so much merit, and which stand so much in our path, that it is with difficulty we can pass them by. His descriptions of lazzoing, of the fête of La Con- Landing at Caldera, he proceeded in the ception, and of a novice taking the black veil, first instance to San José, which he notices are masterly. The latter subject is a hack- as being the only city which has grown up neyed one, but we have never met with it so or even improved since the independence of simply and so effectively given; and we Central America, and which has now superwould recommend its study to all the novel-seded Cartago as the capital of the new State. writing public as an example how much On his route he inspected the works of the picturesque power is gained by an absence Anglo-Costa Rican Economical - Miningof exaggeration, and ambitious labouring af- Company,' and its New German machine ter point. for extracting gold by the Zillenthal patentAfter remaining a fortnight at Guatimala, self-acting-cold-amalgamation-process.' Mr. Stephens sets out on a short excursion to the shores of the Pacific; and in his route ascends the Volcano de Agua, the height of which is 14,450 feet above the level of the sea. On his return to the capital he was alarmed by the receipt of a letter from Mr. Catherwood, dated from Esquipulas, and informing him that he had been robbed by his servant; had been so ill as to be obliged to leave the ruins and to take up his abode at the churlish Don Gregorio's, who, however, had at length softened down into some degree of hospitality, and had treated him well; and that he was then on his journey to Guatimala. Greatly distressed by this news, Mr. Stephens resolved, after a day's rest, to set off in search of his sick friend; but the next day he made his appearance, armed to the teeth, but looking pale and thin, and just in time to The mine, it appears, had been in operation for three years without losing anything, which was considered doing so well that it was about to be conducted on a larger scale. He visited the old capital of Cartago for the express purpose of ascending the volcano, at the foot of which it stands-the especial attrac tion being the hope of beholding from its summit, at one glance, the two mightiest waters of the globe: 'The ascent was rough and precipitous; in one place a tornado had swept the mountain, and the trees lay across the road so thickly as to make it almost impassable: we were obliged to dismount, and climb over some and creep under others. Beyond this we came into an open region, where nothing but cedar and thorns grew; and here I saw whortleberries for the first time in Central America. In that wild region there was a charm in seeing anything that was familiar (an earthquake! an earthquake!)—all rushed to me at home, and I should perhaps have be- for the doors. I sprang from my chair, made come sentimental, but they were hard and taste- one bound across the room, and cleared the less. As we rose we entered a region of clouds; piazza. The earth rolled like the pitching of a very soon they became so thick that we could ship in a heavy sea. My step was high, my see nothing; the figures of our own party were feet barely touched the ground, and my arms barely distinguishable, and we lost all hope of were thrown up involuntarily to save myself any view from the top of the volcano. Grass from falling. I was the last to start, but once still grew, and we ascended till we reached a under way, I was the last to stop. Half way belt of barren sand and lava; and here, to our across the yard I stumbled over a man on his great joy, we emerged from the region of clouds, knees, and fell. I never felt myself so feeble a and saw the top of the volcano, without a vapour thing before. At this moment I heard Don Juan upon it, seeming to mingle with the clear blue calling to me. He was leaning on the shoulder sky; and at that early hour the sun was not high of his servant, with his face to the door, crying enough to play upon its top. . . . . The crater to me to come out of the house. It was pitch was about two miles in circumference, rent and dark; within was the table at which we had broken by time or some great convulsion; the sat, with a single candle, the light of which exfragments stood high, bare, and grand as moun- tended far enough to show a few of the kneeling tains, and within were three or four smaller figures, with their faces to the door. We looked craters. We ascended on the south side by a anxiously in, and waited for the shock which ridge running east and west till we reached a should prostrate the strong walls and lay the high point, at which there was an immense gap roof on the ground. There was something awful in the crater impossible to cross. The lofty in our position, with our faces to the door, shunpoint on which we stood was perfectly clear, the ning the place which at all other times offers atmosphere was of transparent purity, and look- shelter to man. The shocks were continued ing beyond the region of desolation, below us, at perhaps two minutes, during which time it rea distance of perhaps two thousand feet, the quired an effort to stand firm. The return of the whole country was covered with clouds, and the earth to steadiness was almost as violent as the city at the foot of the volcano was invisible. By shock. We waited a few minutes after the last degrees the more distant clouds were lifted, and vibration, when Don Juan said it was over, and, we saw at the some moment the Atlantic and assisted by his servant, entered the house. I had Pacific Oceans. This was the grand spectacle been the last to leave it, but I was the last to we had hoped, but scarcely expected to behold. return; and my chair lying with its back on the My companions had ascended the volcano several floor, gave an intimation of the haste with which times; but on account of the clouds had only I had decamped. The houses in Costa Rica are seen the two seas once before. The points at the best in the country for resisting these shocks, which they were visible were the Gulf of Nicoya being, like the others, long and low, and built of and the harbour of San Juan, not directly oppo- adobes, or undried bricks, two feet long and one site, but nearly at right angles to each other, so broad, made of clay mixed with straw to give that we saw them without turning the body. adhesion, and laid when soft, with upright posts In a right line over the tops of the mountains between, so that they are dried by the sun into neither was more than twenty miles distant, and one mass, which moves with the surface of the from the great height at which we stood they earth.'--vol. i., pp. 382-384. seemed almost at our feet. It is the only point in the world which commands a view of the two seas.'-vol. i., pp. 364–366. Mr. Stephens does not state whether his investigation of the projected line of canal was undertaken under the orders of his govOn the 13th of February, Mr. Stephens, ernment, or merely from the interest which still in bad health, sets out from San José, he as an individual took in the subject. on a land journey of twelve hundred miles We conjecture that the latter was the case; to Guatimala. We must conquer our incli- and as a specimen of amateur surveying, the nation to transfer to our pages many of his exertions he made, and the difficulties he 'incidents of travel'-one earthquake scene braved, do his energy and courage great honis irresistible-and will condense as well as our. After he had been over the ground he we can his most interesting details regarding met at Grenada the engineer who two years the projected ship-canal to unite the Atlantic before had been employed by the governand Pacific. But first the earthquake. Our ment of Central America to make a survey traveller was at the hacienda of Santa Rosa, of the canal route. This gentleman, a Mr. the guest of Don Juan José Bonilla:— Bailey, on the half-pay of the British navy, had very nearly completed his survey when While sitting at the supper-table we heard a the political disturbances in the country noise over our heads, which seemed to me like again broke out; the States declared their the opening of the roof. Don Juan threw his independence of the general government, and eyes to the ceiling, and suddenly started from his chair, threw his arms around the neck of a disclaimed its debts. Mr. Bailey had beservant-a fall from his horse during a popular stowed much time and labour in the execUcommotion had rendered him lame for life-and tion of his task, and had in vain sought for with the fearful words, "Tremblor! tremblor!" remuneration: he had sent his son to mak a last appeal to the general government; but is navigable for ships of the largest class. It before the young man reached the capital the discharges its waters into the Atlantic by the government itself was entirely annihilated, river San Juan, the length of which is sevand Mr. Bailey had no reward for his servi- enty-nine miles, with an average fall of ces, except the satisfaction of having been the about two feet per mile: there are no catafirst pioneer in a noble work. He gave the racts upon it, but many rapids: it is, however, use of the whole of his maps and drawings to at all times navigable for the piraguas-the our author. vessels of the country-which draw from three to four feet of water. At its mouth is the port of San Juan, which is small, but in other respects unexceptionable. The depth of water over the rapids in most places ranges from two to four fathoms, and nowhere is it less than one fathom. Some of the obstacles could probably be removed: where that is impracticable, a canal might be constructed at the side of the river. A water-communication between the two oceans has long been thought of. Many years ago a survey was made under the direction of the Spanish government; but the documents lay buried in the archives of Guatimala until the emancipation of the colonies, when they were published by Mr. Thomson, who visited the country under a commission from the British government. In 1825 the new republic of Central America sent an en- From the lake of Nicaragua to the harvoy to the United States, with a proposition bour of San Juan on the Pacific the distance that the enterprise should be undertaken con- is less than sixteen miles; and this slender jointly, and the advantages resulting from it line of earth is the only important obstacle secured to the two nations by a treaty. The which impedes what would undoubtedly be proposition was favourably received; but no the greatest, the most important alteration government measure resulted from it. The ever effected by man in the physical arrangenext year a contract was made between the ments of the globe. The proud mountains of government of Central America and a New Central America here bend themselves down York company, for the construction of a ship--as if to permit and sanction the enterprise canal across the isthmus; but although many -to the trivial elevation of 600 feet; and distinguished men in the United States asso- through this hill it is contemplated to cut a ciated themselves with the project, it fell to tunnel of one mile in length, at the height of the ground. In 1830 the government of about seventy-two feet above the water of Central America made another contract with the lake, and 200 feet above the low water a company in the Netherlands; the King of level of the Pacific; the distance from the Holland specially patronized the undertaking, and subscribed largely towards it: but this also, in consequence of the political difficulties between Holland and Belgium, was in its turn abandoned. lake to the tunnel being about ten miles, and from the tunnel to the Pacific about four miles; whilst the difference of level could be easily overcome by lockage. The only engineering difficulty in the execution of the work would be the tunnel; and we must confess that the idea of an excavation, lofty through with their lower masts standing, is to us, even in these days, when engineers take all manner of liberties with mountains and valleys, somewhat startling: but Mr. Stephens speaks of it with perfect coolness. In 1835 the senate of the United States passed a resolution, requesting the President to open negotiations with other governments, enough to permit ships of 600 tons to pass for the purpose of protecting such individuals or companies as should open a ship communication between the two oceans, and of securing to all nations free and equal use of such canal on the payment of reasonable tolls. Upon this a special agent was des- The material of the hill, as far as it has patched, by General Jackson, with directions, been ascertained by boring, is a soft and first to examine the route by the river San loose stone-a somewhat dangerous material Juan and the lake of Nicaragua, and after- through which to cut a hollow cylinder of wards the one across the isthmus of Panama. 100 feet diameter; and one which would reThis agent only surveyed the latter route, quire, we conceive, masonry of the most enorand died on his way back to Washington. mous strength throughout its whole length His Report, although imperfect, is important; to render it secure, if indeed it could ever be as it proves that a ship-canal across the isth- rendered secure in a land of perpetual earthmus of Panama is not practicable; and there- quakes. The terrific word tremblorfore the attention, which was before divided tremblor'-terrific even when heard in the between the two lines, is now directed ex. saloon of a one-storied house, built expressly clusively to the one by the lake of Nicara- to suit earthquakes, would be vastly more gua. This lake is ninety-five miles in length terrific when shouted out on the deck of a and thirty in breadth in its widest part, and crowded steamer, over which was impending some 200 or 300 feet of rock and masonry. the river San Juan from the Atlantic to the The easiest, safest, and best way would be lake, including a side canal at certain points, to cut at once a fair slice out of the hill: a 12,000,000; for the canal from the lake to few millions of extra dollars would pay for the end of the tunnel, 10,000,000; and for the additional excavation; and ships, with the descent to the Pacific, 3,000,000. all their masts standing, might then proudly traverse the entire line. Experience has pretty well established that even with the most careful and honest The port of San Juan on the Pacific is engineers it is wise to add an odd fifty per represented by our author as being the finest cent. to their estimates. In this instance, he saw on the shores of that ocean. It is although we are in ignorance of all the denot large; but is admirably sheltered, being tails, and even without taking into account almost in the form of the letter U: its arms, the enormous costliness of a ship-tunnel, or which are high, run nearly north and south, the probability of the still greater costliness and terminate in lofty perpendicular bluffs of an open cutting of from 200 to 300, and the water is deep, and vessels of the largest in one point of not less than 400 feet perclass can ride close under either of the bluffs pendicular depth, we should deem it prudent with perfect safety, according to the direction to anticipate an actual expenditure of not of the wind. There appears, however, to less than 40,000,000 of dollars. be one objection to this harbour. During the months from November to May the north winds, which sweep over the lake of Nicaragua and pass through the gulf of Papajayo, are frequently so violent as to render it almost impossible for a vessel to enter the port. The objection is certainly an important one; but we conceive that half-a-dozen steam-tugs would go very far to remove it. The most palpable difficulty' which the measure has to contend with, in Mr. Stephens's opinion, is one to which we attach no weight whatever. The harbour,' he says, 'was perfectly desolate; for years not a vessel had entered it; primeval trees grew around it; for miles there was not a habitation. I had been sanguine and almost enthusiastic in regard to If this sum, or any sum at all approximating to it, must be expended, no quantity of traffic which could be expected to pass along the canal could ever render the enterprise a profitable outlay of capital; and with regard to the probable extent of traffic which will result from the saving of distance, Mr. Stephens clearly proves that the ideas entertained both in America and in England are wild. In the documents submitted to Congress it is stated that "the trade of the United States and of Europe with China, Japan, and the Indian Archipelago would be facilitated and increased 4000 miles;" and in that usually correct work, by reason of shortening the distance above the Modern Traveller, it is stated that from Europe "the distance to India and China would be shortened more than 10,000 miles!" But by measurement on the globe the distance from at all. This is so contrary to the general imEurope to India and China will not be shortened pression that I have some hesitation in making reader may satisfy himself by referring to the the assertion; but it is a point on which the globe. The trade of Europe with India and Canton, then, will not necessarily pass through We marvel that so quick and shrewd an from conversations with masters of vessels and this channel from any saving of distance; but, American should have conjured up this other practical men, I am induced to believe special ground of despondency, whilst many that, by reason of more favourable latitudes for more valid ones were at his service. His winds and currents, it will be considered prealarm is, we conceive, not one iota better ferable to the passage by the Cape of Good founded than that of a new road projector Hope. At all events, all the trade of Europe would be, who started back, aghast and horror-stricken, because he did not find aboriginal turnpike-gates ready made. Let but the passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific be rendered practicable--and towns will start up, as by magic, not only at the two terminating ports, but along the whole line. with the western coast of the Pacific and the and all the trade of the United States with the Polynesian Islands, and all her whale-fishingPacific. without the exception of a single vessel would pass through it.'-vol. i., pp. 418, 419. As a joint-stock company speculation, therefore, it would never pay;' and we doubt whether any set of individuals will Mr. Bailey's calculation of the cost comes now risk their capital to accomplish it. But to about 25,000,000 dollars-which he the work is not one that should be entrusted divides as follows:-For the improvement of to a set of individuals with a view to their own profit, nor even to one nation the murderings of the vindictive blood-dyed enterprise concerns the whole civilized Indian, Carrera, or even of his comparatively world; and all nations-all maritime and polished and temperate rival, Morazan. commercial nations most surely-should At Guatimala our author is joined by the come forward in friendly union to promote it. indefatigable Mr. Catherwood, who had The more obvious and immediate benefit passed a month at the Antigua, had visited would be to the mercantile adventurer: but Copan a second time-and also another to our view that would be one only, and not mysterious city in its neighbourhood, the the most important, of the advantages result- ruins of which are similar in their general ing from it. The great, the paramount good character to those at Copan, but its monuwould be the tide of civilisation-including ments larger, sculptured in lower relief, less in that idea religion and virtue, and im- rich in design, more faded and worn, and measurably enlarged happiness-which it probably of a much older date. They mark would spread over the waters of the Pacific the site of a large city, but its history is enand the countless islands of Polynesia. We tirely unknown, and its very name is losthold that every added facility to the inter- Quirigua, the appellation now given to it, course between distant nations, everything being merely the name of a village in the which brings different races nearer together, vicinity. must tend to moral and social improvement. Our diplomatical antiquary forthwith openThe projected canal would do more to ed a negotiation for the purchase of the Quiriaccomplish this good end than any work of gua idols, with all their accompaniments; and the kind which the enterprise of man ever already enjoyed in anticipation the glory of yet attempted; and earnestly do we hope transporting this city bodily, and setting it up that it may be prosecuted under such auspices in New York: but, unfortunately, the French as shall secure its success: earnestly do we Consul-General interposed his advice, and hope that England-the nursing mother of talked so eloquently of the several hundreds all noble enterprises-who has done, and is of thousands of dollars which his nation had still doing, more for the happiness and amelioration of the human race than any other nation of the earth, will not be behind hand in lending her powerful aid. We admire and applaud the proud and bold tone in which Mr. Stephens urges his countrymen to step forward, and even singlehanded to undertake the task; but we hope to see our own country enter into a noble rivalry with the States of the New World in advancing this magnificent work. expended on the Luxor obelisk, that the owners of the city, who a month before would have willingly accepted a trifling sum for it and the entire tract of fifty thousand acres in the midst of which it stands, became on a sudden so extravagant in their demands, that the bargain went off, and the city of Quirigua is still in Central America. Two of the most important monuments were, however, on their route to the United States when Mr. Stephens's book went to press. The state in which he found Guatimala convinced him that none of the objects of his mission could be promoted by his residence there. The federal government was entirely broken up, and after making a formal report to the authorities at Washington that after diligent search no government could be found,' he and Mr. Catherwood set out for a ride of a thousand miles to Palenque, the grandest and the most abundant in architectural remains of all the ruined cities. From Nicaragua Mr. Stephens proceeded to Grenada, where he would willingly have remained a few days to recruit; but the news which reached him of the renewal of war obliged him at once to set out on his return to Guatimala, whilst the road was yet open to him. With this journey the second volume commences. It was one of extreme peril. Civil war was raging around him in all its horrors-a war in which the killed only were counted-the prisoners never, for the lives of none were spared. During the Fortified with the best security they could few hours that he halted at Aguachapa it was have-viz., a passport from the young Indian captured by Carrera's troops, and recaptured chief Carrera, who had learnt to write within by those of Morazan; and he had the diffi- the last few months, and seemed more proud cult task of not compromising himself with of the accomplishment than of all his vicone party by too close a union with the tories, they set out on a journey of great other. His narrative of all the tragic scenes difficulty and many dangers. In their route he witnessed, and of his own hair-breadth they visited the ruined cities of Patinamit escapes, is full of animation and interest: and Quiché: of the latter, which is evidently but we conceive that ruined cities are much less ancient than Copan, the most inworthier subjects with which to occupy our teresting part is the place of sacrifice, El pages than the party feuds and patriotic Sacrificatorio, a quadrangular stone structure, |