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directing his fire upon the hospitals, which was carefully complied with. On another, the Russians sent a fag with a request for a supply of tobacco ! It is possible a stronger motive may have been concealed under the tobacco. At all events, in acceding to the request, the eager smokers were recommended not to try it again.
Poor Butler died, it appears, on the very day the siege was raised. He was lying reconnoitring in a masqued embrasure, the Minié balls of the enemy singing rather thickly over his head and that of N., who was near him. Finding they did no execution, the Russians adopted the plan of undercharging. The balls dropped nearer. At length one struck the work so close as to cover N. with a shower of dust and earth, nearly blinding him. “A good shot!” said N. “Yes,” said Butler, “and I am hit"--and exhibited a flesh wound on the brow, which, though seemingly not dangerous, made N. "sick to look at.” As the brave soldier withdrew, " This shall not,” he said, "prevent our making a sortie tomorrow."
The wound assumed a very favourable aspect, and Captain Butler was seated at breakfast with his friends on the third morning, when tidings were brought that the besiegers were in full retreat. All rushed to the walls, and poor Butler became much excited, talked wildly of driving the Russians into the Danube, and greatly alarmed his friends. Towards evening his condition became worse, and in a few hours he expired, no doubt from concussion of the brain. His diary of the siege-a most interesting document-has been sent, it is said, to the Duke of Cambridge.
3rd.—Engaged a Bulgarian servant, and, with great difficulty, an araba or rough cart, to carry our luggage. The villanous-looking driver came sulkily, and evinced such evident tokens of a desire to evade his bargain, that we thought it wiser to take his horse out until we were prepared to start. Apparently anticipating our intention, the wretch bolted at once, and tore away at full speed. Chase ensued, but in vain; and, after a short distance, no trace of the game could be found, but the fragments of sundry bottles of pale ale, which had unluckily remained in the araba, and been smashed during the race. Obtained a bullock-cart from commissariat, and despatched effects under escort. Omer Pacha came to Varna for a council-saluted by all the Turkish batteries and ships.
4th.—Restless night ; yelling sentries, howling dogs, screaming cats, stamping horses picketed in the yard, biting insects, and the thermometer at fever heat. Rose at 3 A.M., strolled through Varna, and towards the cavalry camp on the south of the bay. The place looked uncomfortable ; ruffians of all descriptions, in every conceivable attire, lounging about, or lying asleep in dusky corners; St. Arnaud's spahi escort slumbering on a convenient dung-heap under the marshal's window; prowling bashibozouks and sullen Bulgarians ; immense herds of buffaloes going to the marshes ; slaughtering of bullocks going on untidily along the fragrant beach; horses of the 11th Hussars exercising. After breakfast, to the horse bazaar-some fifty animals, all diminutive ; nothing good under 1500 piastres (about 11l.), nor anything bad worth ten. At length, chiefly through the kind offices of Mr. G., arranged my stud, and left for the camp, M., who had to visit the 50th, accompanying me a
part of the way. Met the consul, who rode with us Council last night; peaceful prospects; Russia quits the principalities, Austria occupies them. Took leave of kind host, and rode to camp of bashi-bozouks to see S. Found him delightfully planté, on the brow of a green hill overlooking the lower lake, Varna, and the bay. Poor S., disgusted with the present aspect of things-organisation of his b. b.'s awaiting regular warrant from Government;-Omer Pacha understood to be opposed to the plan of submitting these men to a rigid discipline. Went on to Aladeyn, a beautiful, solitary ride, scarcely a dwelling or a living creature to be seen for miles together. The oak-woods, with which are mingled wild fruit-trees, apples, pears, cherries, almonds, vines—in abundance-teem with animal and insect-life, the noise of the cicalas being absolutely deafening ; cranes and pigeons were numerous ; the linnet and oriole"; magnificent dragon-flies, and huge gaudy moths floated about-lizards, and
very often a tortoise, crossed the track. Of course there are snakes in this paradise, and I had the luck to encounter the largest (out of the Zoological Gardens) I ever beheld. The creature lay directly in my way, and, as he decamped through the bushes, making as much disturbance as a hare, I can't say I was sorry that he had not compelled me to force the line of his Danube. I hate snakes.
A soldier of the 41st, while the regiment lay outside of Varna, caught a curious brown snake, with two legs placed near the tail, and covered with small teeth like a cat's. Colonel Carpenter told me he was anxious to preserve the interesting biped as a cadeau for the Hunterian Museum, but unfortunately no bottle could be found big enough to contain it.
Rode first to the 3rd division camp. While talking to Colonel C., St. Arnaud, Omer Pacha, and an immense retinue, skirted the camp, riding towards Shumla, the soldiery loudly cheering as they passed. On to the Guards' camp; found them in a beautiful locality, in the clearings of an oak-forest, crowning the range of hills sloping down to the upper lake; game and fish abundant. A mass of fine old ruins, like those of a temple (the only token of man's handiwork in the vicinity), was occupied by an outlying picket; W. and De H. out riding, so rode on with Colonel c. to explore. "Returned; was fortunate enough to obtain the tent of Captain K., absent at Varna. Capital dinner, and jolly evening. But fourteen men smoking at once in the tent of one, is to be avoided when possible!
5th.—Woke by the réveillée at 5 o'clock-camp in full bustle and conversation. Tents are great conductors of sound—it is possible to hear distinctly words spoken in a common colloquial tone several tents
and I've not the slightest doubt that Richard III., in his eavesdropping excursions, heard a great deal more than he relished. Rode to Devnos on Colonel C.'s Arab, a fine fractious brute; beautiful ride of twelve miles across the hills ; reached camp at four. Visited 7th and 23rd, then across to cavalry; found W. and M.D. in M.'s tent-M. ill in bed ; kindly offered me the tent of his brother aide, Lord Dabsent on service with Lord Cardigan. W. returned to Aladeyn. Dined with the 7th; passed evening with the 23rd ; much grumbling at early drills, &c. Mr. correspondent of the Times, established here, in a spacious Egyptian marquee, giving frequent champagne dinners to eighteen and twenty guests, and otherwise upholding the dignity and
liberality of the English press. The broad red stripe upon his trousers is a singular illustration of the dulness of Turkish tailors. Mr. having written to Constantinople for a pair of black inexpressibles, the tailor, seeing the order dated “Camp," decided that it must proceed from an officer, and affixed the scarlet badge on his own responsibility!
At 10 P.m. back to cavalry camp. Very dark- lost way-blundered into a Turkish encampment-conducted to colonel—directed to English cavalry-got into river-item, into fields of standing corn. At last reached
at 11.30. Excellent tent, full of field luxuries ; roll of French papers, which kept me awake till one. Slept beautifully, only disturbed by little camp occurrences ; escape of charger of the 17th, stamp of relief, cat in tent, &c.
6th.-Rose at 5, meaning to reach Aladeyn to breakfast. Took leave of M. (awake, and better); rode slowly; cool, delightful day; pleasant wind. Half-way, at a fountain, first indications of the march of Evans's division-expected to move to-day. Soon, the gallant general himself, with an aide ; then, in a beautiful gorge, three regiments,
; artillery, and baggage ; a little further, the remaining regimentshalted. Colonel C. told me Omer Pacha was coming immediately to an open spot close at hand, to inspect the Guards and others. Guards came up, in imposing columns, moving through the forest—(here very open)then the 42nd Highland regiment, and some horse-artillery. "Omer Pacha came galloping up, with his spahis-looking not unlike fierce old ladies with red hoods—all splendidly mounted, and each man a perfect little armoury of weapons. St. Arnaud, Lord Raglan, the Duke of Cambridge, and a crowd of English and French officers, were present. Short review-admirably executed, except that the Guards invariably cheered in charging-a practice strongly reprehended and repressed by Napier. Omer Pacha, charmed, paid the usual compliments; but was especially delighted with the horse-artillery, who charged over a ditch and hedge, which the pacha imagined would bring them to a halt,-up to his very nose!
“ With such troops,” he said, “I would mow the Russians down like sheep!"
Dined, on a barrel, with W. and De H. ; rude camp-dinner. Soup à la Julienne, salmon (preserved), stewed duck au riz, fried ham and beans, stewed cherries ; Madeira, bottled beer, brandy, pale ale. Slept to-night in De H.'s green bower ; cooler than tent, and not many earwigs.
N.B.-Two fellows stung last night by centipedes ; painful, but not dangerous.
7th and 8th.—No hope of an advance; resolved to return to Varna ; sent baggage back by araba ; sold stud to De H. for the same price I gave. Made adieux and set forward. On reaching camping-ground of bashibozouks found tents struck, and Colonel Beatson (Shemsie Pasha) and Colonel S. (Naymi Bey) gone to Schumla. Breakfast at Maxwell's great bustle ; found our missing effects at the consulate. Scrambled on board the Ferdinando Primo at mid-day ; few passengers. An American colonel, with immense sword, who had been to Silistria after the siege and gone over the Russian works. An innocent youth, about twenty, agent to a mercantile house, who had been despatched to Varna to obtain orders for wine. He had obtained one for six bottles of champagne, and had been handed over by the worried consul to his rapacious dragoman before mentioned, as his only chance of shelter. The latter ushered him into a filthy den, already tenanted by six
other individuals, and proffered a dirty sheepskin for a bed-charge 7s., English! No breakfast ; and the luckless youth wandered about from 4 A.m. to 8, when he obtained a handful of cherries, his first meal for eighteen hours. Constantinople again.
10th.—While shopping with W. and S., met Lord John Hay, who told us the Wasp had been peremptorily ordered to Baltschik. Prospect of something doing. Offered us a passage to the fleet, but we had previously decided on going to Broussa. Sweet Waters, and fête aux fleurs.
11th.—Embarked in our old friend, the Ferdinando Primo, for Broussa. Weather fine at first, but a sudden and severe squall of wind and rain overtook us, and drove all the thinly-clad below. Mundagna at 1 P.M. ; took seven horses, for selves, guides, and baggage, and rode through a beautiful, wild, and broken country to Broussa, the residence of Abd-el-Kader—and of many millions of silk-worms, whose cocoons covered acres of the ground like snow. Passed parties of armed Turcomans, and long strings of very fine camels. Reached the city at 7. It occupies a truly splendid site, at the foot of Mount Olympus ; so near, however, that the snowy forehead of the majestic mountain is not visible within several miles of the city itself.
12th.— Note from the consul, Mr. Sandison, that the Emir would receive us a little after mid-day. Sketched a mosque—then with W. and S. to Abd-el-Kader's residence-a strange, straggling old place, like a Flemish chateau, in the skirts of the town. He has a farm a mile or two beyond it, in which he spends much of his time. The renowned Emir received us with great cordiality. He wore a plain mollah’s robe, and a white turban, which might have been a trifle cleaner; but well might the noble head that wore it afford to dispense with extrinsic ornament! It is hard to conceive a more kingly countenance-fair as that of a European—a high, smooth forehead, brilliant eye, and the most remarkable and engaging smile I ever noticed. Pipes and coffee were introduced, as usual, and the Emir, tucking his legs up comfortably on the sofa, prepared to listen to the latest news of the war, in which he expressed the most eager
interest. As he speaks neither French nor English, the conversation had to be carried on through two interpreters, by means of whom we conveyed to him all the information in our power. Anecdotes of the heroic defence of Silistria especially awakened his attention ;- and as we related a well-known incident of the siege, in which a column of Russians, who had actually penetrated into the works under cover of a fog, were pitched out of the embrasures after a struggle of half an hour, during which
no shot was fired nor word spoken, the chief became greatly excited. His eyes flashed; he almost wrung his hands with a sort of nervous delight, and evidently enjoyed with the intensest pleasure the repulse of the “Moskov” by the unaided sons of the Crescent. After a most interesting interview of three-quarters of an hour, we reluctantly took leave of the caged eagle, and, distributing “ backshish” among the ever-ready domestics, repaired to the silk bazaar, cool and curious with delightful fountains of ever-flowing water.
Sept.-VOL. CII. XO. CCCCV.
To the jessamine garden, where the stalks are trained to a great height, for pipe-stems. Bought a stalk of seven years' growth, twenty feet long, for 21. Divided it with MʻD., who got the best half !
14th.—Thunderstorm at 3 A.M. Most vivid sheet lightning. Then heavy rain, which, passing off, opened to us a beautiful day-comparatively cool.
Coffee, and started at 6 A.M. for the residence of the gods. Mount Olympus takes six hours to ascend, four to return. Rode for five hours, including two halts; and being still two hours from the top, and our horses nearly done, agreed to breakfast. Did so, on a beautiful knoll, surrounded by gigantic masses of pine, cedar, and cypress. After the meal, an extraordinary lassitude seized the majority of the party; the two hours' climb yet remaining was voted a bore, and the whole of the enterprising travellers shortly commenced that inglorious retreat, which resulted in a comfortable dinner at the Hotel d'Angleterre at 5 o'clock, P.M.
15th and 16th.-St. Swithin opened fine, hot, and dusty. Started at 7 for Mundagna, on a road, or rather track, a little different from that by which we came. Excellent quail and partridge shooting here--andonly two days' journey from Broussa—bears and jackals are to be found in great abundance. Captain F., who has lately traversed the country, offered a bet in my hearing that he would bag one hundred bears in the course of a calendar month! . Mundagna at 12. No steamer. Wind unfavourable; arranged for a large caïque, pulling eight oars, to sail whenever the wind lulled or changed. Sketched and bathed, the old Pacha sending down some people to keep the populace from crowding the sketchers. Dined in a wretched hovel upon some greasy mess concocted in one huge basin, by a Greek; had beds made up on the floor, and, rashly occupying them, were bitten out. Rose, therefore, at 12-30, and ordered the caïque, the wind having fallen.
Caïquejee came, with a solemn face, pointed to a great black cloud to windward, and asked if, under such circumstances
, the signors were prepared to "risk it ?” The signors intimated that nothing short of a tornado would defer their voyage longer than was necessary to place water and provisions on board.
Sailed at 1:30-partial starlight-nearly calm-atmosphere heavy and oppressive. Slept soundly, wrapped in our burnouses, for four hours, only roused by the men making sail, the wind having risen and come fair. In a short time, however, the wind shifted to its old quarter, and, the sea rising, we pulled to some unknown country and landed. A curious old sycamore, its immense trunk nearly hollow, stood on the beach, and apparently represented the entire foliage of the country. Sent to the interior in search of food--spies returned with eggs and plums-re-embarked-heat intolerable--the rays of the vertical sun, concentrated in the boat and reflected from its shining inner sides, made it a sort of gridiron. All suffered greatly from the intense heat.
A large sea-snake was visible for some minutes, enabling the crew, and all who were well enough for the effort of sitting up, to form various estimates of his dimensions. From a careful comparison of authorities, I should place it at fifteen feet. The boatmen affirmed that these creatures were not unfrequently seen in the Sea of Marmora. Wind rising, fair, ran into Prince Edward Island at sunset.
18th to 25th.—At Constantinople, awaiting news-rumour of a